CJS

In my area the cost of machine work and porting on heads is extravagant. What complete set of aftermarket heads would work well on my other wise bone stock 2x4's 245hp 283 engine. Either cast iron or aluminum. Compression is 9.5 now, don't want to go over 10.5 if even that high. What size valves, what size runners?
-----This will be on a street only engine. 3400 lb car, 4.11 rear, 2.88 Tremec 1st gear. Cam will stay the stock 1957 220 hp hyd. cam. Duke says that is the best cam for a powerband starting at 1200 rpm and going to 5000rpm, which is the powerband that I want. And that ported heads are the way to go for more top end power while keeping low end torque. Makes sense to me.
Anyone with brand new heads on a 283? I don't really want to mess with old used iron heads.

wesmigletz

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...11478&D=311478

Summit makes these for the small bore engines. Probably about the best out there. Another good swap head for 283/307 engines is the later #416 305 head. These have 350 sized ports and 1.84/1.50 valves.

SWCDuke

Pocket porting cast iron heads is a time consuming process, so it is expensive to have it done professionally at, say, 60 bucks and hour shop rate, and some shops won't even work on CI heads anymore. Aluminum head work can be accomplished much faster.

Heads with 2.02/1.6" valve sizes won't work on a 283 because of the smaller bore, but early 461s will work with 1.94/1.5" valves. That's what the '61 275/315 HP FI engines had OE.

Contrary to popular belief, I don't think most aftermarket heads will work much better than OE heads unless the aftermarket heads are also reworked, and some are now sold with CNC porting, but they almost all have the big valves, and the ports are also too big for a high torque 283.

When it comes to a 3.875" bore engine, your options are limited.

Your OE heads or a later 307 head mentioned by Wes is still your best bet IMO, and you could do the job yourself as hobby time.

Also, if you pocket port the heads and install a replacement base engine cam like the current 14088839, consider retarding it 4 degrees. This will goose the top end a worthwhile amount with virtually no loss at the low end.

With a 4.11 axle and 2.88 first gear, it should have plenty of low rev punch.

For 327/300 rebuilds I recommend pocket ported OE heads with the standard 1/94/1.5" valve set in conjunction with retarding the OE replacement cam four degrees - makes for stump pulling off idle torque and useable revs to 5500+ - a very pleasant engine.

Duke

Pop Chevy

You should consider a set of Chevrolet Vortec heads !Just might be a good choice for your combo.
Pops

CJS

My stock 2x4 dual fours manifold won't fit on the Vortecs!

Corbrastang

There is plenty of data to show that an aftermarket set of aluminum heads will flow and produce much more power than the stock cast iron heads. It's not just a theory, all you have to do is look at some stats.

OC-1

World Products S/R Torquer 305 Cylinder Heads, cast iron
58cc, 170cc intake runners

These might be work. Waht do you think?
I have been looking for decent set of double hump heads with 1.94 intakes and have come across high prices and heads needing repairs. Once you figure the cost of new heads vs the cost of rehabing old heads it's about a draw. The older heads would be my preference.
Joe

65ZR1

I have a 58 with a 283 and dual fours. I was faced with the same situation, dump a bunch of money into some non numbers-match heads or buy new ones. I went with new. They are from trick flow and have 2.02,1.6 valves. The valves are angled and will work with the 283 block. Only problem I had is the larger combustion chamber limits compression. So I milled the bottom of the heads and they have worked great. If you cant find a part number let me know and I will dig it up for you.

wesmigletz

Just want to clarify, the casting I recommended is a set of #416 heads. They are off select 305 engines.

I reference 307s because they share the bore size with the 283, and the #416 head is a nice upgrade for the 307 as well as for 283 engines. However, I DO NOT recommend 307 heads, because they have 1.72 valves, small ports, and a relatively large 68 - 70 CC combustion chamber.

Nothing wrong with the Dart S/R heads, but they will benefit from pocket porting, especially on the exhaust side.

The following is a link to a set of 283 heads I had built for my '59. They used 1.88 I and 1.6 E valves. The project was side tracked after the engine spun a rod bearing, but will be back together and (probaby) on a dyno within the next 6 - 8 weeks.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...351&uid=649897

The factory heads can be made to work, but it isn't cheap. I've started on a set of 1962 461X heads that show some good promise, and I will update on those when I have all the data.

CJS

Good stuff! Thanks!

chewy

With the 220 cam are really going to gain anything over the stock head? Just about every 283 I ever built had the stock 4bbl head on it and ran just fine. If you must change to something else consider the 305 HO head.