VG

Sorry if this seems too simple, but I've never run into it before.
I just took delivery on my new 67 327/350 car. It only has 48K miles on it. Very orginal but has not had any love for a long time.
First thing I did was drain the oil. then I noticed I have the orginal type oil filter on it. I've owned lots of 67's but this is the first time I had one with the orginal oil filter.
How to I convert to a spin on?
Or what is the correct way to change this filter? It looks like I just remove the bolt and pull it down and remover the old and put in the new. Is that correct?

VG

Jack60

Look here.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch

VG

Thanks, It looks like I need an adapter kit. Looks simple enough.

VG

Coves4me

VG, changing a cannister filter is easy, albeit a bit messy if you drop the cannister once it is free of the block. BUT, it is very easy to do. As you said, just unbolt the cannister with a 3/4-inch socket, lower the cannister and filter, drain the old oil out of the cannister, remove the filter, and wipe out the cannister with shop rags. There is a narrow rubber gasket that fits in a circular recess in the oil cannister mount that should be replaced on every oil change. A small ***** punch will remove it. I always wipe out the recess with a small screwdriver and rag. Install the new round gasket making sure that it is installed correctly all around, then re-install the filter/cannister with the bolt until it is tight and correctly in the oil mount recess. You're done. Some folks fill the cannister with oil, but I am not sure that is truly necessary as the oil pressure fills it pretty rapidly. Good luck!!

66since71

I tried the conversion twice and gave up on it. The adapter, and therefore the filter are supported by just the two 1/4-20 screws that held the old pressure by-pass in place. I know that it seems to be like the later OEM set up, but the problem is that the seal on the spin on filter seals to the surface of the adapter, not the block like the later OE version. So there is not tension between the filter and the block to keep the screws on the by-pass tight. For me, they kept coming loose and you can pump out a lot of oil in short order... I finally gave up. (The ones I tried were like the Mr. Gasket or Trans Dapt at the Summit site.)

The canister inserts are still readily available. The forum archives should have some good discussions about it. Many feel the orignal canister is better than the spin on. Chances are the spin on was a cost reduction by GM...

I'd stick with the cannister.

Harry

Corbrastang

Havent had a problem with my fathers setup yet. Wouldnt some lock washers correct the screws from backing out??

Hitch

The best spin on adapter out there is the Perma cool one from Jegs. I have installed a couple of them and have been running one on my car on two different engines. I've had no problems with it, the part number is 771-1134 for 11.99. The reason the Permacool adapter is better is that the thread adapter is knurled to hold it in place. Install a CarQuest 85060 filter and you are ready to go. There is no reason that the bolts should back out if you tighten them. The filter presses only against the adapter so it shouldn't have any effect the bolts that hold the adapter in place. Dave

Jimbo64

I like the canister, readily availble and it's really easy to change. Never had a leakage problem as long as I remembered to put in the supplied gasket. Before I would convert, give the present setup a try.

VG

Well I just visited NAPA.
The guys behind the counter could not find a filter for anything like an old Chev V8. They also could not find the adapter.
After a while, they did figure out how to find the orginal type filter and I bought that.
I will get the one from Jeg's.
The Internet Rules!!

VG

MikeM

Since you're going to Jeg's this is probably worthless but I wanted to add a couple things.

You don't have to change the gasket up in the block that the cannister seats to everytime you change oil. Maybe every third or fourth time. The reason is sometimes when you change it, it doesn't seat and will leak the first time you tighten the cannister down. Pep Boys can sell you a good quality Purolator filter cartridge. When you loosen the cannister bolt, turn it about three rounds and then bump the cannister with the heel of your hand to knock it loose from the block. They get stuck. DO NOT try to remove the bolt from the can. The can spins off with the bolt.

I might add that the three adaptors I've had over the years all leaked at least a little. I threw them all away and went back to the cannister. I can't tell you what kind of adaptors I had. They leaked is all I know.

MikeM

Since you're going to Jeg's this is probably worthless but I wanted to add a couple things.

You don't have to change the gasket up in the block that the cannister seats to everytime you change oil. Maybe every third or fourth time. The reason is sometimes when you change it, if it doesn't seat right it will leak the first time you tighten the cannister down. If it doesn't leak, leave it alone. Pep Boys can sell you a good quality Purolator filter cartridge. When you loosen the cannister bolt, turn it about three rounds and then bump the cannister with the heel of your hand to knock it loose from the block. They get stuck. DO NOT try to remove the bolt from the can. The can spins off with the bolt.

I might add that the three adaptors I've had over the years all leaked at least a little. I threw them all away and went back to the cannister. I can't tell you what kind of adaptors I had. They leaked is all I know.

mrg

A bit more muss and fuss when it comes to changing out the filter element but the cannister is a bullet proof design. I vote with the others who say stay with the cannister! . .

66since71

Looks like MikeM has also had problems. I am sure that others have too..

Maybe I can explain the problem a little better. In the stock spin on set up, both the sealing surface on the block and the bypass (held by the 1/4-20 screws) support the filter against vibration (a significant mass when filled with oil). With the Mr Gasket style adaptor, only the two 1/4-20 screws support the filter against vibration, since the filter seals to the adaptor, not the block.

It will inevitably loosen up. I think it just a matter of when. If you change oil frequently and retighten each time it might work. (How much do you have in your motor ($)?)

(I tried lock washers and loctite, always the same result.)

Harry

Don SSDD

Most of the adapters are Made in China and the problem with them is the 2 bolts they supply with the adapter are crap and the threads stretch. Get good quality bolts and it works fine.
Don

VG

Well I got the oil changed. I used the old type filter.
When I took the old one off, I could not find the rubber gasket. It looks like it did not have one.
Very messy to clean up. Gunk in the bottom of the canister.
When I put it back togeather, I added the gasket. I used some grease to hold it in place. It looked good when I finished.
I started the car to build up the pressure.
When I checked again, it was leaking around the top of the canister.
I tightened it some more and repeated.
Still leaks.
I tightened it some more and repeated.
It still leaks.
I never had that problem with a spin-on.
Looks like it's time to change it again.

VG

Don SSDD

VG, the rubber gasket sits in a groove in the block (and is flush with the block when installed) and the edge of the cannister fits against the gasket. Nothing there at all when you cleaned out the groove? If you didn't get all of the old gasket out (if there was one there), then that would be likely why it is leaking now.

Don

MikeM

Now you know why I said not to change the gasket every time. When you take the cannister off this time, also take the by-pass valve out for a better look up in the cavity and better access to clean out any remnants of old gaskets.

kabong

The gasket probably hasn't been change out in a while, and it's up there harder than a rock. I'm old enough to remember these when I changed oil back in the early 60's. Sometimes somebody would put TWO gaskets in, because they couldnt get the other one out. Messy, messy. At one time, I got a viton O ring and stuck up there, worked slick. I'm now using the conversion type, I really have had no problems with either one. The argument is right up there with electronic ignition conversions, Deisel oil, and the Loc Nes monster! Whatever you fell comfortable with, do it! Again, just my opinion.

Tintin

Hey

How odd that NAPA didn't have the cannister filter. I use NAPA part number 1134 Gold filters in my car. I am thinking of changing to a spin on as well, but this works just fine for now and the guys at my oil changing place knew how to work with it last time I was there (last week). This is the only bargain thing on these cars because you can use regular 10-30 in these old engines.

Steve

VG

When I looked for the old gasket it was not there. I used a ice pick to run around the groove to make sure there was nothing left there.
When I put the new one in, it had no problems fitting and the top of the canster appears to sit on it when I tighten it up.
I may of missed some of the old one. When I get it apart again, I will do a better job of inspecting it.

BTY, I've been to every auto parts store in town looking for the adapter. You would not believe the blank stares I got.

VG