The garage heater is installed
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The garage heater is installed
Now I think I am ready for the winter projects. Last year I used a propane heater. What a pain that was. Had to fill the tank every few days. This is a REZNOR UDAP 45,000 btu heater. We installed it with a fresh air duct for the combustion air supply. It should keep the garage at a nice temperature.
Roy
Roy
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Fairfield County CT
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Nice looking unit!
Much more compact than my Modine, hanging off the rear corner ceiling shown in my avatar and fed by oil heated water. Works great, but the fan is somewhat noisy--gives the garage that "industrial" ambiance.
I've had it running for 20 years now, keeping my typical (and insulated) two car garage here in Connecticut at no less than 60 degrees all year round. I'm sure in the winter months it contributes meaningfully to my oil bills, but cars have feelings, too!
What's the noise level like with your Reznor?
Much more compact than my Modine, hanging off the rear corner ceiling shown in my avatar and fed by oil heated water. Works great, but the fan is somewhat noisy--gives the garage that "industrial" ambiance.
I've had it running for 20 years now, keeping my typical (and insulated) two car garage here in Connecticut at no less than 60 degrees all year round. I'm sure in the winter months it contributes meaningfully to my oil bills, but cars have feelings, too!
What's the noise level like with your Reznor?
Last edited by Cobra66; 10-12-2006 at 10:26 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
A climate controlled environment makes all the difference in the fun department. I hope my days of double thermal underwear, kerosene heaters, and cold concrete floors are in the past
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
My Reznor keeps my garage nice and comfy, and I installed A/C in the garage in the summer of 2005:
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...der_id=1411059
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...der_id=1411059
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ahockeynut
Roy,
That looks like a great setup. How do you handle the exhaust? Is it a high temp chimney, or can you use PVC exhaust (like a high efficiency furnace)?
Thanks
Paul
That looks like a great setup. How do you handle the exhaust? Is it a high temp chimney, or can you use PVC exhaust (like a high efficiency furnace)?
Thanks
Paul
Roy
Last edited by 67-427ci; 10-13-2006 at 02:00 PM.
#9
"It is a triple wall metal chimney that goes straight through the wall for the powered exhaust"
Does that mean you can run it out the side of the house like a gas log fireplace, or do you have to run it vertical out the roof?
I have the perfect spot in the ceiling of my garage. I could get a gas line to it, if I can do a side exhaust. I don't like the thought of cutting through my shingles.
Are all the chimney requirements with the unit?
Thanks again.
Does that mean you can run it out the side of the house like a gas log fireplace, or do you have to run it vertical out the roof?
I have the perfect spot in the ceiling of my garage. I could get a gas line to it, if I can do a side exhaust. I don't like the thought of cutting through my shingles.
Are all the chimney requirements with the unit?
Thanks again.
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ahockeynut
"It is a triple wall metal chimney that goes straight through the wall for the powered exhaust"
Does that mean you can run it out the side of the house like a gas log fireplace, or do you have to run it vertical out the roof?
I have the perfect spot in the ceiling of my garage. I could get a gas line to it, if I can do a side exhaust. I don't like the thought of cutting through my shingles.
Are all the chimney requirements with the unit?
Thanks again.
Does that mean you can run it out the side of the house like a gas log fireplace, or do you have to run it vertical out the roof?
I have the perfect spot in the ceiling of my garage. I could get a gas line to it, if I can do a side exhaust. I don't like the thought of cutting through my shingles.
Are all the chimney requirements with the unit?
Thanks again.
Roy
#11
Working in the warmth.
It's a weekend morning, middle of Winter. I walk the 100 feet to the barn and plug in the coffee pot, click on the radio and strip down to dungarees and a shirt. I plop down on my little creeper work seat and survey the scene. The wind blows the snow in drifts up against the big sliding door. I plan my day's events and before I know it my wife's asking when I'll be in for supper. Can't be, I just barely got started but yup I've been out here 7 hours. I can tell she has the fireplace going by that wonderful unmistakable smell.
I bundle up, grab a long neck out of the beer fridge, give a quick glance at black60 up on the Mohawk and hit the lights. The snow, waist deep in spots slows me a bit but I think as I trudge along life is good, thank you Lord.
I bundle up, grab a long neck out of the beer fridge, give a quick glance at black60 up on the Mohawk and hit the lights. The snow, waist deep in spots slows me a bit but I think as I trudge along life is good, thank you Lord.
#12
Burning Brakes
Is the metal pipe going downward the flue pipe, or the fresh air inatke?
Flue gases normally don't like to run downhill.
To vent thru horizontal surfaces you normally need at LEAST Double Wall pipe, and 1" clearance from combustible surfaces. Triple wall is fine, but overkill.
Horizontal runs will not vent properly. Have at least 1/2" to 1" (per foot of flue pipe) rise on flues leaving the building. Not only will carbon monoxide likely enter the occupied space, but moisture condensing on the flue pipe walls will quickly cause rust of the flue pipe, and also run down into the heater causing damage there also.
Not pretty. Be careful if you install these yourself.
Flue gases normally don't like to run downhill.
To vent thru horizontal surfaces you normally need at LEAST Double Wall pipe, and 1" clearance from combustible surfaces. Triple wall is fine, but overkill.
Horizontal runs will not vent properly. Have at least 1/2" to 1" (per foot of flue pipe) rise on flues leaving the building. Not only will carbon monoxide likely enter the occupied space, but moisture condensing on the flue pipe walls will quickly cause rust of the flue pipe, and also run down into the heater causing damage there also.
Not pretty. Be careful if you install these yourself.
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 65nassau
Is the metal pipe going downward the flue pipe, or the fresh air inatke?
Flue gases normally don't like to run downhill.
To vent thru horizontal surfaces you normally need at LEAST Double Wall pipe, and 1" clearance from combustible surfaces. Triple wall is fine, but overkill.
Horizontal runs will not vent properly. Have at least 1/2" to 1" (per foot of flue pipe) rise on flues leaving the building. Not only will carbon monoxide likely enter the occupied space, but moisture condensing on the flue pipe walls will quickly cause rust of the flue pipe, and also run down into the heater causing damage there also.
Not pretty. Be careful if you install these yourself.
Flue gases normally don't like to run downhill.
To vent thru horizontal surfaces you normally need at LEAST Double Wall pipe, and 1" clearance from combustible surfaces. Triple wall is fine, but overkill.
Horizontal runs will not vent properly. Have at least 1/2" to 1" (per foot of flue pipe) rise on flues leaving the building. Not only will carbon monoxide likely enter the occupied space, but moisture condensing on the flue pipe walls will quickly cause rust of the flue pipe, and also run down into the heater causing damage there also.
Not pretty. Be careful if you install these yourself.
Roy