Anyone replace inner-fender A-arm dust skirts?
12-06-2006, 07:13 PM
#21
Drifting
John Z and Gonefishin have it right - put a mike on a removed staple, go to hardware store and buy the wire - probably cost $3 for a 100 feet - find a vise grip (if I remember correctly the jaws must be 1/2" wide); place the wire in the vise grip and bend over the ends - "creating a staple"- grab a drill the same size as the existing hole and perhaps 1/64th larger that your wire - clamp the new dust shield in place remove the front tire - drill into the new shield from the wheel well - insert "staple", put a small awl inside each "staple" side and bend the end over. You'll figure out pretty quickly how long the ends of the "staple" should be. Then blackout.
12-06-2006, 07:57 PM
#22
Drifting
Okay, I think I can help...it took me an hour on the passenger side doing it the hard way, but took 10 minutes on the driver's side doing it with the following procedure, and I used the staples from LICS. Try this:
Use blue painter's safe-release masking tape to hold the flap in place, drill 1/16" holes from the inner fender at the original holes. You may need to carefully reach from the other side to make sure the shield doesn't flip up when drilling. The cool thing about the blue tape is that it will not only hold it in place, it will show where your holes are in that thick black rubber material.
Put the staples through the holes at the engine compartment and support it using a body dolly. While holding the staple in place with the body dolly, tap each side of the staple at the inner fender until it is bent the way you want it, and then hammer it in the center.
Please ignore my filthy undercarriage. I can't bring myself to care enough about cleaning off the undercoating....
Use blue painter's safe-release masking tape to hold the flap in place, drill 1/16" holes from the inner fender at the original holes. You may need to carefully reach from the other side to make sure the shield doesn't flip up when drilling. The cool thing about the blue tape is that it will not only hold it in place, it will show where your holes are in that thick black rubber material.
Put the staples through the holes at the engine compartment and support it using a body dolly. While holding the staple in place with the body dolly, tap each side of the staple at the inner fender until it is bent the way you want it, and then hammer it in the center.
Please ignore my filthy undercarriage. I can't bring myself to care enough about cleaning off the undercoating....
12-06-2006, 08:14 PM
#24
Drifting
Originally Posted by win1876
Nice job and great pictures. Thats exactly how I did them on my 64.
Bill
Bill
12-06-2006, 10:57 PM
#25
Instructor
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Thanks to all for responding to my original question. I never realized it would generate so much discussion. Appreciate all the help, it will sure make it easier to do now.
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
12-07-2006, 05:53 AM
#26
Racer
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Dumb question from a newbe
I'm in the process of redoing my engine compartment while my engine is out. I want to replace my a-arm dust skirts and read some posts about purchasing them thru LIC since they have the correct thickness. Now the dumb question, but who is LIC and how can I order from them. The posts are very helpful and most of my questions about how to do it correctly were answered. Thanks a million.
12-07-2006, 06:02 AM
#27
Drifting
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Originally Posted by 6T5RUSH
daddyboats,
I used the same staple holes and bent each staple using needle nose pliers. A "freegin" PITA! Obviously removing the wheels to get access to the inner fender to do this is in order. I do remember, I'm sure others will chime in here, of using aluminum staples or some other material other than the rock hard steel staples supplied by the major Corvette supply houses.
Think you're better off using the existing holes in your inner fender rather than starting new ones. I did use an awl to punch through/start the holes in the dust skirts (memory serves me right they did have holes started).
Good luck!
Jim
I used the same staple holes and bent each staple using needle nose pliers. A "freegin" PITA! Obviously removing the wheels to get access to the inner fender to do this is in order. I do remember, I'm sure others will chime in here, of using aluminum staples or some other material other than the rock hard steel staples supplied by the major Corvette supply houses.
Think you're better off using the existing holes in your inner fender rather than starting new ones. I did use an awl to punch through/start the holes in the dust skirts (memory serves me right they did have holes started).
Good luck!
Jim
Jim, I did the exact same thing and you are right, a complete PITA!
As JohnZ indicated, the supplied staples are not correct for judging.
12-07-2006, 07:07 AM
#28
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by cdrag264
Now the dumb question, but who is LIC and how can I order from them. .
12-07-2006, 11:42 AM
#29
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by rgs
So back to the original question, apparently my perception of judging the car on it's appearance of originality is not right. Even if an item is visually the same as the original, if it is made from a different material that can be detected through non visual means, it is subject to a deduction?
How faw does this go? If you use a paint that looks the same, down to the proper dullness in un-buffed areas, but under a microscope can be determined is not period correct laquer, is this also deducted? How about seat backs made from a different plastic than originals but with the same texture?
I'm just trying to understand the rational. Is the criteria appearance or not? If not, what is the basic philosophy of the criteria? Is there a different basic philosophy for different components?
How faw does this go? If you use a paint that looks the same, down to the proper dullness in un-buffed areas, but under a microscope can be determined is not period correct laquer, is this also deducted? How about seat backs made from a different plastic than originals but with the same texture?
I'm just trying to understand the rational. Is the criteria appearance or not? If not, what is the basic philosophy of the criteria? Is there a different basic philosophy for different components?
Paint is a little tougher. If you have single stage urethane paint and it has been dulled in the appropriate places, missed in the appropriate places, and basically looks original, then no deduction should be made. Keep in mind that these cars usually came from the factory with pretty marginal paint, so over restoration of paint is common (I'm not saying I agree with this part of the standard, but it is what it is). BC/CC usually looks a mile deep so you can usually tell what it is.
If you are a member of the NCRS, I highly recommend attending a judging seminar at your next chapter or regional meet. Even if you have no intention of being a judge or having your car judged, it will explain the process (which in my humble opinion is quite fair and objective).
03-25-2013, 01:37 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
03-25-2013, 06:02 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
CPHCP- Corvette People Helping Corvette People
Thomas
