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Glazing and topcoating DP90LF

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Old 12-17-2006, 05:51 PM
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Talisman51
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Default Glazing and topcoating DP90LF

I am still inching along on the resto of a 65 frame and front control arms. Today with the balmy Chicago weather, I finally got the control arms nicely preped (bare metal) and under two coats of DP90LF. I used the Preval stray tool which although slowwww worked surpisingly well. Next up, filling some pits (yep I am ****) and then some type of topcoat....

1. For pit work, I was either going to fill with Evercoat's Slick Sand or Metal Glaze, sand, recoat with the DP90LF, and finally topcoat. Comments...?

2. Topcoats...I am still at a loss... After reading countless archived DP posts I see some folks don't even bother to topcoat. As mentioned earlier I still don't have a spray gun setup so I will probably continue with the Preval or spray cans. I am concerned about both compatability, adhesion, and the recoat window with the DP90LF primer. PPG states that after one week the surface needs to be roughed and reshot with DP90LF prior to topcoat. Also, fellow posters have mentioned compatability issues using products like Krylon over different manufactures primer. Any experience with overcoating DP90LF with Krylon, Cat Blitz Black, or Sem enamels?

Many thanks....
JimV
Old 12-17-2006, 07:29 PM
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MarvBarrish
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I like Eastwood products. Their Extreme chasis black is an epoxy paint which is like spraying glue and will stick to anything with real good results. All of their products come in spray cans. If you feel you have to rough up your primered parts get a red or grey scuff pad from an automotive paint supply store and do a quick rub down of your parts, blow them off and paint. www.eastwood.com. Regards, Marv
Old 12-17-2006, 11:14 PM
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Yello65
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I agree Eastwood sells great paint products,I use them also
Gary

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