MF64VETTE

Hi.
I'm a new Forum member. I have owned a 1974 Stingray coupe since 1975, and just bought a 1964 String Ray convertible. I'm slowly learning the hard way the pitfalls of buying a classic car. I bought the car off a dealer's lot and have had a series of problems with the car. It stranded me three times in the first week I owned it, and I finally had to be towed from a cruise-in on a flatbed. A new starter and a new clutch had to be installed. Then I found out the frame was rusted where the left rear trailor arm connected to it. Thank God I have a good mechanic who recommended a good welder who repaired the frame. I don't have any records for the car and don't trust any of the backround information the dealer told me. I found the numbers on the engine (327, 300 hp) but I don't know how to go about finding if they match. My 1974 is all original, even the Steelgard tires (28,000). So I'm a newcomer to restoration and "correct" replacements.
Any suggestions?

JohnZ

Your best single source of "numbers" information is the NCRS (if you're not already a member, it's the best $30.00/year you ever spent). The NCRS "Specifications Guide", 1964 Corvette Technical Manual & Judging Guide, and the Noland Adams "Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide, Vol.II" are the best references out there for numbers and information, plus the 1964 Corvette Assembly Instruction Manual and the 1963 Corvette Shop Manual and 1964 Supplement. You can join the NCRS on-line at http://www.ncrs.org, and order all the above publications from the NCRS on-line store as well. There are many other Corvette publications also, all of which are available from the NCRS Store. Just have your credit card number ready.... :eek:

MF64VETTE

Thanks for the info. If the number don't match, how do I make them match? Just how important are matching numbers?

Ultra Slow

That depends. Its up to you if the #'s dont match. The value will be higher if the #'s are correct and to me the car will be more enjoyable if not. NCRS is a great guide and is the way an original corvette is supposed to be, but that does not mean you have to follow it like gospel. I think you will be seeing alot of real nice non #'s cars being worth more money percentage wise than before. Some may even be worth more than an all original depending on how its set up. Many guys like myself have had these #1 #'s cars that are just trailer queens and are just somthing to talk about and never drive as if you did your investment would be getting used up. Its really nice and refreshing to see a quality mid year that actually runs and drives to todays standards and retaining to look of being somewhat original. If its 100% original it drives more like a 63 pickup. If you got a good deal on the car, just make the car the way you want it and enjoy it as you might not ever be able to make a #1 car out of it since you mentioned the rust factor and welding on the frame will get the attention of a true #'s guy when you go to sell it. Personally, and I'm sure I'll catch hell from some here, I'd rather have a counterfiet big block 64 with a late model motor, upgraded suspension, PS/PB/AC, 4 wheel disk, etc than an all #'s 327-300. It sure would be more fun and it would get much more attention.





[Modified by Ultra Slow, 1:06 PM 9/28/2001]

MF64VETTE

Ultra Slow:
The Vette owners who go to the same local car shows and cruse-ins that I do (some of whom have restored their own mid-years) tell me that my engine may not be the original one, but it is a 327, 300 hp. The decal on it says 327, 3000 hp turbo-fire, but I realize anyone can buy a decal and put it on an engine to make it look "correct."
I agree with you about the trailer queens. I have taken good care of my 1974, which is all original, and have driven it everywhere. It still runs like a top and looks really sharp (if I do say so myself). It is a true Survivor car. All I have ever done to it is keep it polished (I've used 100 percent carnuba wax until switching to Zaino Brothers products this summer) and in my garage. And that's what I intend to do with my 64. I want to drive it and show it. Last night, the 64 made its debut at a weekly 50s cruise-in at a 50s diner/drive-in. It took me 6 weeks to get it road worthy and I couldn't be more pleased. It's red with a black standard interior. I've done a lot of work on the interior and it looks great. The body is flawless and the paint job is excellent. I took off the old dirty white convertible top and replaced it with a new black one, which matches the "noncorrect" blackwall Michelon tires and 67 rally wheels. I could have had the wheels changed back to the original ones, but the rally wheels look so much better, and match the rally wheels on my 74. So they kind of look related when parked side by side. So I guess matching numbers aren't so important to me. Thanks for your post.