90ZR1

Actually I'm doing this project for someone. I'm doing the major mods: body/engine/tranny install on the custom chassis. The interior will be finessed when I'm done then the car will get a fresh coat of paint.

Here's a pick of the recently arrived LS2 long block:

90ZR1

I've been working under the car all week. Cleaned with soap and water then painted. Have sanded the radiator support, filled in holes in the engine bay with fiberglass body filler, sanded and painted. Used a small paint brush and detailed the whole engine bay.

I'm not done yet but have some initial pics to post tonight. Next week the new chassis will be here!

I had to re-bolt on the #4 driver side body mount bracket because it had come off. I used lots of contact cement then bolts. I know you're supposed to use rivets but it seems bolts will hold better. I even drilled out the holes to make them bigger so I could put in bigger bolts. I'll try to get a pic of it this week.

Here are pics of the project for this week:

ApexOversteer

Excellent! This is exactly how I'd want my dream driver done, only a Mosport Green or Trophy Blue 'vert and an LS7.

Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming!

justatoy

WOW.......

90ZR1

Well, this week, I have been putting together the engine. I put on the front rotating assembly. I may have to move the alternator up if it is too close to the rack and pinion. The old chassis is gone and the new one has arrived. I've put on some temporary Chevy wheels and tire to roll it around while I work on it.








I've started laying out the engine harness and labeling the ends and where they go on the motor. The gas pedal came with it and runs to the engine via only wires, no cables, thus making it "drive by wire". The gas pedal wire sends a signal the the little motor on the throttle body to open/close it.



In the next week I'll put in the engine and gas tank. The transmission is still on order.

Nick D.

Who did the frame? On my Newman frame/66 coupe I had to move the alt up to miss the steering shaft (R & P), used the Vette alt/ps stand and had to space it out 3/4" as the F-Body (my motor/trans came from a Camaro) crank pulley is different than the Vette. Since the F-body is gone, I assume the crate motors are based on the Vette layout so your crank pulley should (?) be in the right place to use the Vette stand.

The photo of the motor doesn't show an a/c compressor. Are you going to have a/c? If so, you may want to check the fit of the a/c comp in the chassis. I had to move mine up as it hit my frame. Alf Eberroth in Ca has a bracket to do this if you are interested.

I also had to cut and reclock the thermostat housing to allow the hose to clear the frame.

Your progress reports are fun, looks like you are moving right along. It took me 2-1/2 years to do mine working on weekends and a few hours during the week so your time frame is very ambitious. Looking forward to the next report

Nick

willyv

Great thread, Z! Really cool to see this conversion done. I saw 8-10 midyear frame conversions in Kississime last weekend and they were all awesome cars. Yours looks to be well on the way to be the same.
I'm doing the a similar conversion with a 63 vert. Mine is an ex-drag car and restoring it to some normality has been challenging. It was tubbed, so the rear floor needs some serious attention. My frame, suspension and drivetrain are pretty well done but the body is still a ways off before I can drop it on.
Are you going to need to trim your body for suspension or tranny clearance and if so, can you determine what and where to trim without dropping the body on?
I agree with Firstgear about the costs. I expect my conversion costs will be about $40K finished, including paint. This includes a donor '94 and stroking the LT1 to 383- I'd much prefer your drive train. The conversions I saw in Fla were priced $130-150K so I consider it a hell of a deal!
Good luck on yours and keep up the posts.

90ZR1

The Street Shop (Alabama) did the frame. The owner, Tray is very good to work with so far. He's answered all of my many questions. You're exacly right about moving around the front rotating assembly. I have no A/C so that's a potential pain relief. the alternator will definately have to be moved up as it will, as you said, hid the steering box. I'll be working on that this week too. The t-stat housing will probably need changed to one that sticks straight out.
I had Griffin Radiator custom make for me a radiator with outlet and return both on the passenger side so I don't have a hose going from one side to the other (just for aesthetics).
Can the power steering pump be put on the pass. side head with a spacer like you mentioned?

90ZR1

thank you very much. I'm very mechanical and NO good at body work so I chose a frame that requires absolutely NO CUTTING the fiberglass. The 5-speed tranny I ordered fits right in as well - it's customized for this whole setu-up.
Colt

90ZR1

I was afraid you'd be right. A bit of bad news: I just found out Tremec is running behind on ordes and mine won't be in for a month! That right there adds a whole month to my timeframe.

Power111

Here is one on fee-bay.

Click here

willyv

I have similar accessory clearance problems, primarily with the upper A arm mounts. I plan to try a more compact alternator for the left; not sure about the ac yet. Maybe the delete option.
There are several street rod shops that offer hardware for all sorts accessory configurations. I seen several in use and they look pretty nice. I can probably send some pics but I'm not sure I can give proper credit to the cars/owners.
I suspect the different frames might require different configs. My frame (Jamison) has much taller mounts than the Street Shop frame and I have not seen a Neuman frame.
You might try TheDrivenMan for your Tremec.

Nick D.

90ZR1,
Your comment that the alt is mounted low left means to me that when you buy an LS2 crate motor you get one configured for a Pontiac GTO, not a Corvette. The Corvettes mount the alt high left with the ps pump mounted on the same bracket.

You can use the Vette bracket to mount your alt and ps pump but I believe you will face the same problem as I with the pulleys not being in line with the crank. You can either change to the Vette crank pulley or space the alt bracket .75" away from the block. I heard changing crank pulleys was difficult and requires a special ($$$) puller so I had a spacer machined (I imagine the new pulley is expensive also). You can also use Street & Performance stuff to mount the alt and ps pump and there are probably others. The factory brackets tuck the accessories in tight and look much better in my eyes. The S & P stuff moves them up and out away from the block, I don't like the look at all.

Be sure to buy the alt and ps pump for the Vette if you use the Vette bracket, they are different than the GTO. The plastic coil-pak covers (the black ones with LS2 and Corvette in red) from the Vette should also fit and cover up the ugly coil-paks. Too bad your customer doesn't want ac, the brackets available work very well. I used the Vintage Air R-134 and it works great. It uses a Sanden compressor (much cheaper than the factory unit).



Have fun

Nick

90ZR1

Beautiful job, Nick! I'm talking with S&P now about the bracketry. I bought the motor mount adapters from them. I think you're right about that stock vette alt bracket - will be off line unless I change the balancer.
did you have to change the t-stat housing to a straight one? How about the heater hose bibs?
I see you have power brakes - which booster and master cylinder did you use?

Nick D.

Thanks Z,

When I did my car no one made a straight t'stat housing so I cut the stock one at about 30 degrees and welded it back together so it came straight out. The heater hose bibs were close to the frame so I went to Napa and looked through all their hoses til I found 2 that did a quick turn. Once they cleared the frame I cut them and used an inline union to get them to the firewall. The booster and brake master cyl came from Newman, he would never tell me where he got it. I think it may be a Master Power Brake setup. Are you using C4 suspension and brakes?
What are you going to do for an air cleaner?

Nick

90ZR1

Thanks - great info! Yes, I'm using all brand new C4 suspension and brakes. The calipers even have ABS sensors. I'm actually considering putting in an ABS system! (But still in the info-gathering stage for that).
As for the air cleaner, for now I'm looking for a 4 inch 90 degree bend because I already have a cylinder/cone shaped K/N filter. Later, I'll route it through the hole in the drive side of the radiator support.

CorvetteTechInc

As mentioned, Street & Performance (www.hotrodlane.cc) make both a straight t-stat housing and swivle bibs for the heater in/outs. THey also have all the bracketry and other goodies you need. Not cheap, also not the fastest turnaround time. But nice stuff.

ps: Nice project!

jr9170

90ZR1,looks great...

Nick D.

CorvetteTech- Great looking motor! Is that S & P gear you have there? If so it looks great!! It's been awhile since I've seen their stuff, looks new and improved

90ZR1- ABS in a midyear, how cool would that be?!! When I looked at the ABS controller and the myriad of hard lines, I had nightmares so I gave up. Has anyone that you know of adapted the C4 system to their midyear resto-mods? Please share what you learn.

Nick

John McGraw

Here is another S&P drive setup that I like better than the high/wide setup. I used the high/wide drive on the LS1 in my 59, and did not like the way it took up so much room in the engine compartment, so I went with the close-in drive on the LS2 in my C2. With the close-in setup, the A/C compressor is almost completely hidden from sight under the engine.You do have to trim the Fuel rail covers a little to clear the Alt, but that is no big deal.
Here are pics of both the high/wide and close-in drive.


http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...3/P0000830.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...I-P0001580.jpg


Regards, John McGraw