al329

Anyone have a down and dirty guide on how to pull the fuel tank on my 64?

I started by trying to replace the sending unit due to the fuel gauge inop. I tried to pull the spare tire tub. I got the tub out but cannot get the two front carrier bolts out, so the cover is just hanging down. Any trick as to how to get the bolts out? Im soaking them right now but the heads are kinda hard to get a wrench on?!?

So with the tub out I could access the sending unit. Once pulled I could shine I light up in the tank, looking down I could see how much rust and junk is at the bottom of the tank. So while Im at it ... I might as well at least pull the tank and replace or give it a good once over.

So now the rub... can I pull the tank without fully removing the spare tire cover?

Thanks,
Al

kenEDMUNDS

You do not have to remove the tank to change the sending unit. Plenty of room. However if you want to remove the tank:
I usually have to use vice grips on rusted spare tire cover bolts-that and a wrench at the same time. If you have to, cut them off and after the tank is out-use a torch to heat them and remove them.

1 Drain gas tank
2 Remove rear exhaust-first need to remove tailpipe tips and then remove rear exhaust panel IF you cannot slide the pipes back enough to disconnect them from the center connection. If your mufflers are removable at the rear, remove them and then the pipes.
3 remove spare tire carrier, upper and lower halves
4 disconnect sending unit-2 wires and a ground wire.
5 disconnect the fuel hose at the sending unit-crimp off with a pair of vice grips
6 remove the 2 nuts that retain the straps to the crossmember
7 remove the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember to the chassis
8 DUCK! Actuall it won't fall out and may require a little tugging-the front end comes down first and then it slides right out-if it is a coupe, open the gas door, move the rubber aside and take out the 1/4 head screws that hold the neck in-this gives a little more clearance when the tank comes out.

62Jeff

Yeah, the tank won't come out of a coupe without removing the filler neck.

I found on my 65 it was helpful to unhook the "J" portion of the tank straps and push the straps up into the body cavity. This allowed me to push the gas tank towards the rear of the car before I pulled the front edge of the tank down as I rotate the tank out of the car.

al329

Thanks for the replies!

Question, any way to get the tank out without removing the rear exhaust?

I only ask due to the fact the exhaust does not have any connections...its straight pipe from the mufflers to the front. And truth be told…the last time my father replaced the exhaust, the bolts that connect the pipes to the exhaust manifold were rusted solid. So they cut the pipe just below the joint and welded the new pipes in place. Eventually I will deal with that whole mess. But one project at a time.

Guess I can always do it the hard way...lift the body!

Thanks,
Al

al329

Ok tried to loosen the 4 bolts on the fuel tank crossmember....they just spin. How do I get a socket on the top of those 4 bolts?

And is it possible to get the tank out without removing the mufflers?

Thanks,
Al

GarageMahal66

I am just finishing putting everything back together from the same exact situation.

1. No, you have to move the mufflers to reach the nuts on the bolts holding the fuel tank crossmember. I tried and tried to do it; I could just contort enough to feel two of the mounting bolt nuts, but no way to get a wrench on the nuts.

2. I have welded in mufflers as well. I was able to unbolt the rear muffler hangers, remove the exhaust pipes for the header collectors and CAREFULLY lower the pipes to remove the exhaust panel valance. My pipes had enough wiggle to provide access to the crossmember etc.

3. I reinstalled a new tank from Quanta (looks pretty good) but no it is not an exact duplicte of the original (abit a 197X replacement) GM tank.

Best of luck and "patience young Jedi"

Sundevil64

al329- I just removed my tank on my 64 convertible yesterday afternoon. To access the top of the four lower support bolts there is an "access hole" on the side of the box frame. You will have to do it blindly. I tried four different tools (socket/rachet, box end wrench, socket wrench, and open end wrench), the open end wrench was the easiest to use (9/16th). To protect both myself and the crossmember from damage I used bungee cords running fore and aft (rear crossmember to somewhere on axle unit) to catch and support the crossmember as I loosened it. Use eye protection due to the amount of dirt back there. Be patient and roll the tank out. One more thing. I had to remove my sending unit to avoid "tweaking" the outlet nipple. Not that it really mattered since I am replacing, but it was easier and good practice.

I got my tank out with the filler neck on. I just rotated it, pushed it rearward and rotated it. I also took it out with the exhaust on. I took the rear valance out though. After taking the rear valance out (for other reasons) I disconnected the rear muffler supports and moved the mufflers out of the way to drop the tank. My exhuast is fully welded and been there for a long time, so the removal option was down on my list as "last resort".

Any body use the POR tank treatment and apply themselves?

John

al329

Thanks to all for the advice!

Will get at it today and see how it goes.

As for the POR treatment....I think most will advise to just replace the tank and not take the risk. But I would suspect it would also depend on how bad off the tank is. I would use it if the tank is in good shape and you just want to prevent further problems.


Al