Power Steering Control Valve leak and Rebuild
03-13-2012, 09:50 PM
#61
Drifting
Geat article and pictures!
If anyone decides to just buy a new one, here's a tip.
After you install it, make sure that the centering adjustment is somewhere in near the middle. You can adjust it with the car running and the wheels will center up for you. Place the car on jack stands in the front and start the car. As you adjust, the wheels will go to the correct aligned position. HERE'S THE TIP.
When starting the car, if you are just reaching in to start it, DO NOT STICK YOUR HAND THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN TURNING THE KEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the valve is not centered, the steering wheel will rotate with your arm still stuck through it!!! It will rotate fast.
It hurts like #%^&*!!. I was 19 yrs old when I did this and haven't forgot it. I'm 46 now and still have both arms!! Good learning experience.
If anyone decides to just buy a new one, here's a tip.
After you install it, make sure that the centering adjustment is somewhere in near the middle. You can adjust it with the car running and the wheels will center up for you. Place the car on jack stands in the front and start the car. As you adjust, the wheels will go to the correct aligned position. HERE'S THE TIP.
When starting the car, if you are just reaching in to start it, DO NOT STICK YOUR HAND THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN TURNING THE KEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the valve is not centered, the steering wheel will rotate with your arm still stuck through it!!! It will rotate fast.
It hurts like #%^&*!!. I was 19 yrs old when I did this and haven't forgot it. I'm 46 now and still have both arms!! Good learning experience.
03-13-2012, 10:11 PM
#62
Race Director
Thread Starter
WOW my old thread got dug up.. and yes if the valve isn't centered and you have you arm through the steering wheel you could expect to have your arm broken. The rest of the time we Rebs would just turn you over to the Yankess... over the wall they were..
03-14-2012, 03:30 AM
#63
Race Director
I am hoping to install my rebuilt system I did thanks to your and Jackfit's information on the process. Thanks.
03-22-2012, 10:01 PM
#64
Burning Brakes
I think the hardest part of all of this was separating the ball stud from the pitman arm. I know that I’ve read in the past that using a pickle fork is not a good idea on the PSCV. However I have tried my tie rod puller and there is not enough room so I had to use the pickle fork. If anyone has a picture of said ball stud separator that will fit in the confines of a midyear frame it would be greatly appreciated. Dave
, but a similar tool is available from Harbor Freight in the US.
The tool I bought has four settings to accommodate a variety of ball joints and depressions on the pivoting arm to seat properly on the ball stud.
Thanks for this thread Dave, and now I'm on to the next (hopefully easier) phase of my PSCV rebuild.
07-29-2012, 05:38 PM
#65
Safety Car
Your thread popped up on the C3 forum...same problem leaky PSCV. Anyway, I've rebuilt mine in the past and have another to do so was curious about your post and found it instructive.
I also went over to the NCRS Tech Board where there was discussion about early PSCV (1963-75) versus late (1976-86) that also served as a service replacement for the 1963-75. In 1976, an o-ring groove was machined into the housing and its this part that became a service replacement for 1963-75. I'm curious, it appears that your housing has a groove (o-ring?) in the housing. Can you confirm?
Control Valve Housing early and late
Last edited by hunt4cleanair; 07-29-2012 at 05:40 PM. Reason: add housing photo
07-29-2012, 09:51 PM
#66
Race Director
Thread Starter
Hey Hitch
Your thread popped up on the C3 forum...same problem leaky PSCV. Anyway, I've rebuilt mine in the past and have another to do so was curious about your post and found it instructive.
I also went over to the NCRS Tech Board where there was discussion about early PSCV (1963-75) versus late (1976-86) that also served as a service replacement for the 1963-75. In 1976, an o-ring groove was machined into the housing and its this part that became a service replacement for 1963-75. I'm curious, it appears that your housing has a groove (o-ring?) in the housing. Can you confirm?
Control Valve Housing early and late
Your thread popped up on the C3 forum...same problem leaky PSCV. Anyway, I've rebuilt mine in the past and have another to do so was curious about your post and found it instructive.
I also went over to the NCRS Tech Board where there was discussion about early PSCV (1963-75) versus late (1976-86) that also served as a service replacement for the 1963-75. In 1976, an o-ring groove was machined into the housing and its this part that became a service replacement for 1963-75. I'm curious, it appears that your housing has a groove (o-ring?) in the housing. Can you confirm?
Control Valve Housing early and late
05-12-2013, 09:40 PM
#67
5th Gear
Member Since: Feb 2013
Location: norwood ma
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Dave, you are my HERO!!! After 3 failed attempts at a rebuild (by following their directions/diagrams), I just printed your picture of all the parts (exploded) and succeeded! Your article saved my from turning in my IQ card and joining the Moron Club.
(I discovered that you can also bleed the system just by extending and retracting the cylinder rod several times...if the system is close to balanced...) Thanx, again!
Tim
(I discovered that you can also bleed the system just by extending and retracting the cylinder rod several times...if the system is close to balanced...) Thanx, again!
Tim
05-12-2013, 09:42 PM
#68
Race Director
Thread Starter
Tim, I'm glad you found the thread. I had lots of help an thought that putting this together would help my Corvette brothern. I never thought it would go 15k plus views though..
05-12-2013, 09:46 PM
#69
Race Director
Thread Starter
Dave: This is a most helpful thread you posted. You're right, the hardest part is separating the ball stud from the pitman arm. Instead of using a pickle fork, here's the tool that I used that fits in the limited space available (and I have a BB). This ball joint separator is about 6.25" in length. I oriented the tool along an axis that runs parallel to the PSCV. I purchased this tool in Toronto at Princess Auto , but a similar tool is available from Harbor Freight in the US. The tool I bought has four settings to accommodate a variety of ball joints and depressions on the pivoting arm to seat properly on the ball stud.
Thanks for this thread Dave, and now I'm on to the next (hopefully easier) phase of my PSCV rebuild.
, but a similar tool is available from Harbor Freight in the US. The tool I bought has four settings to accommodate a variety of ball joints and depressions on the pivoting arm to seat properly on the ball stud.Thanks for this thread Dave, and now I'm on to the next (hopefully easier) phase of my PSCV rebuild.
I had rebuilt my box with new sector and worm gear then rebuilt the PSCV as seen here and was never satisfied with it. While it worked as it was supposed to it was not enough. I drove a friend's car (Thank you Marshall) and I ordered the Borgeson box the next day.
Hitch
09-17-2016, 10:14 PM
#70
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Rebuild video:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592441224
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592441224
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 09-17-2016 at 10:14 PM.
