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Tach cable question

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Old 12-17-2007, 10:10 PM
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jkuzzy
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Default Tach cable question

I recently replaced my tachometer cable due to the other one binding. It appears that the tighter I make the connector on the back of the tach, the less the cable wants to move.
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
Old 12-17-2007, 11:51 PM
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Shurshot
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For me mine was a nightmare. It would work fine for awhile and then start to make more noise than my exhaust.

I lubed and hooked it at both ends more times than I want to remember before finally giving up. Until I locate and install an electric one from a 72 that is suppose to make the 7000 rpm stock one work flawlessly I have installed an electric one on my steering column.

What surprised me was the difference between the rpm of the old mechanical one and the new auto-meter electric one at specific speeds With a direct lead to a MSD box I figure the numbers with the electric one are the accurate ones.

I know that does not answer your question but if all else fails an electric one is a painless solution.

Doug
Old 12-17-2007, 11:53 PM
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jkuzzy
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Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't the tach from a later model look different?
Old 12-18-2007, 12:00 AM
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Shurshot
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Originally Posted by jkuzzy
Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't the tach from a later model look different?
You still use your old face

Try this thread and search for some more if needed. It is a pretty well covered subject

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...lectronic+tach
Old 12-18-2007, 12:14 AM
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jkuzzy
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I appreciate the heads up. I have never seen a thread like that (or never worried since I never had the problem.) I will check it out. Thanks.
Old 12-18-2007, 10:20 AM
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67L36Driver
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Originally Posted by jkuzzy
I recently replaced my tachometer cable due to the other one binding. It appears that the tighter I make the connector on the back of the tach, the less the cable wants to move.
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
Cross gear in the distributor going bad? Check the (cross gear) endplay. Anything past a 1/64" can lead to stripped teeth.
Old 12-18-2007, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
Cross gear in the distributor going bad? Check the (cross gear) endplay. Anything past a 1/64" can lead to stripped teeth.
I don't even have my distributor end hooked up yet. I know that portion is good. I am spinning the cable guts by hand and watching for the needle to move.
Old 12-18-2007, 10:32 PM
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gphil460
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I had a similar problem with my '57 tach, needle bounced, made noise and ultimately the cable broke. I took it into an old speedometer repair shop in Denver (Deluxe Speedometer and Radio Service - 303.629.6958) and they said noise was the result of worn bearings. They replaced bearings and cleaned it up for about $115. It's worked great since the repair.
Old 12-19-2007, 09:25 AM
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Chuck72
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my experience has been if the cable nut is less than snug, it allows the inner flex cable to not align with the female square hole on instrument rear. speedo will do the same. (bounce at low speed).
chuck
Old 12-19-2007, 03:28 PM
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jkuzzy
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Originally Posted by chuckievette
my experience has been if the cable nut is less than snug, it allows the inner flex cable to not align with the female square hole on instrument rear. speedo will do the same. (bounce at low speed).
chuck
Interesting. The more I tighten it, the less it wants to move. I know the tach needle never did any bouncing with the old cable until the very end. I notice absolutely no binding in the back.
I wonder if I received a defective cable?
Old 12-19-2007, 07:13 PM
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Paragon sells a 90 degree tach adapter part#12542. You might want to try that. Kinda pricey at 40 bucks but if it solves your problem,its worth it. If it doesn't help,you can always send it back. I think I saw the same part at another vendor for 30 dollars,can't remember which one now.
Old 12-19-2007, 07:59 PM
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I have one of those and it does work really well. My problem is the tightness of the nut on the instrument cluster side.
Old 12-19-2007, 08:56 PM
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Be sure U have the correct tach cable for your Mid Year. Depending on your transmission is what cable you need. Some of the muncie transmissions had the cable adapeted on the pass side other on the drivers side. One cable is considerable longer than the other.
Old 12-19-2007, 09:07 PM
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I have wondered that myself. I bought the cable from Paragon and the only difference from the 63 to the 64 was the color of the jacket(according to them). After that, the cable was a little longer.
Old 12-19-2007, 09:09 PM
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62Jeff
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Originally Posted by geo1rem
Be sure U have the correct tach cable for your Mid Year. Depending on your transmission is what cable you need. Some of the muncie transmissions had the cable adapeted on the pass side other on the drivers side. One cable is considerable longer than the other.
I wouldn't think the Transmission would affect the Tachometer cable. Speedo cable maybe.
Old 12-19-2007, 10:13 PM
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JohnFromVentura
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I had trouble with a new tach cable on my 67. The new one was 2-1/2" longer. It made noise at idle. I finally got back under my dash and re-routed for the least amount of binding and the noise stopped.
Old 12-19-2007, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jkuzzy
I have one of those and it does work really well. My problem is the tightness of the nut on the instrument cluster side.
Sorry,I misunderstood,I thought the problem was at the distributor end. Are the new cable and the old cable the same length? Is this happening with the cluster pulled away from the dash or pushed in against the dash?
Did you replace the cable and the housing? Or did you install the new cable in your original housing? What did you use to lube new cable?

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Old 12-19-2007, 10:45 PM
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62Jeff
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Is it possible the plastic end of the old tach cable is still stuck in the tachometer?
Old 12-20-2007, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 62Jeff
Is it possible the plastic end of the old tach cable is still stuck in the tachometer?
I don't think he said the old cable broke, he said it was binding,and apparently the new cable is doing the same once he tightens it down all the way....weird. My original speedo cable broke and I ordered a repro and it came with those plastic ends which I didn't like,plus it was 3" longer than the GM original. So I took my old cable to a speedometer shop and for 25 bucks they made me one exactly like my original. Lubed it up ,slid it back in my original housing,works great. Maybe he could try that. I'm beginning to think he might have a bad tach head.

Last edited by 65 vette dude; 12-20-2007 at 03:52 AM.
Old 12-20-2007, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 65 vette dude
My original speedo cable broke and I ordered a repro and it came with those plastic ends which I didn't like,plus it was 3" longer than the GM original. So I took my old cable to a speedometer shop and for 25 bucks they made me one exactly like my original. Lubed it up ,slid it back in my original housing,works great. Maybe he could try that. I'm beginning to think he might have a bad speedo head.
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