Tach cable question
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Tach cable question
I recently replaced my tachometer cable due to the other one binding. It appears that the tighter I make the connector on the back of the tach, the less the cable wants to move.
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
#2
Le Mans Master
For me mine was a nightmare. It would work fine for awhile and then start to make more noise than my exhaust.
I lubed and hooked it at both ends more times than I want to remember before finally giving up. Until I locate and install an electric one from a 72 that is suppose to make the 7000 rpm stock one work flawlessly I have installed an electric one on my steering column.
What surprised me was the difference between the rpm of the old mechanical one and the new auto-meter electric one at specific speeds With a direct lead to a MSD box I figure the numbers with the electric one are the accurate ones.
I know that does not answer your question but if all else fails an electric one is a painless solution.
Doug
I lubed and hooked it at both ends more times than I want to remember before finally giving up. Until I locate and install an electric one from a 72 that is suppose to make the 7000 rpm stock one work flawlessly I have installed an electric one on my steering column.
What surprised me was the difference between the rpm of the old mechanical one and the new auto-meter electric one at specific speeds With a direct lead to a MSD box I figure the numbers with the electric one are the accurate ones.
I know that does not answer your question but if all else fails an electric one is a painless solution.
Doug
#4
Le Mans Master
Try this thread and search for some more if needed. It is a pretty well covered subject
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...lectronic+tach
#6
Safety Car
I recently replaced my tachometer cable due to the other one binding. It appears that the tighter I make the connector on the back of the tach, the less the cable wants to move.
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
In other words, the need bounces when you turn it on the distributor side until you tighten down.
Any thoughts?
#8
Instructor
I had a similar problem with my '57 tach, needle bounced, made noise and ultimately the cable broke. I took it into an old speedometer repair shop in Denver (Deluxe Speedometer and Radio Service - 303.629.6958) and they said noise was the result of worn bearings. They replaced bearings and cleaned it up for about $115. It's worked great since the repair.
#9
Le Mans Master
my experience has been if the cable nut is less than snug, it allows the inner flex cable to not align with the female square hole on instrument rear. speedo will do the same. (bounce at low speed).
chuck
chuck
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I wonder if I received a defective cable?
#11
Melting Slicks
Paragon sells a 90 degree tach adapter part#12542. You might want to try that. Kinda pricey at 40 bucks but if it solves your problem,its worth it. If it doesn't help,you can always send it back. I think I saw the same part at another vendor for 30 dollars,can't remember which one now.
#13
Be sure U have the correct tach cable for your Mid Year. Depending on your transmission is what cable you need. Some of the muncie transmissions had the cable adapeted on the pass side other on the drivers side. One cable is considerable longer than the other.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have wondered that myself. I bought the cable from Paragon and the only difference from the 63 to the 64 was the color of the jacket(according to them). After that, the cable was a little longer.
#15
Tech Contributor
I wouldn't think the Transmission would affect the Tachometer cable. Speedo cable maybe.
#16
Burning Brakes
I had trouble with a new tach cable on my 67. The new one was 2-1/2" longer. It made noise at idle. I finally got back under my dash and re-routed for the least amount of binding and the noise stopped.
#17
Melting Slicks
Did you replace the cable and the housing? Or did you install the new cable in your original housing? What did you use to lube new cable?
#19
Melting Slicks
I don't think he said the old cable broke, he said it was binding,and apparently the new cable is doing the same once he tightens it down all the way....weird. My original speedo cable broke and I ordered a repro and it came with those plastic ends which I didn't like,plus it was 3" longer than the GM original. So I took my old cable to a speedometer shop and for 25 bucks they made me one exactly like my original. Lubed it up ,slid it back in my original housing,works great. Maybe he could try that. I'm beginning to think he might have a bad tach head.
Last edited by 65 vette dude; 12-20-2007 at 03:52 AM.
#20
Burning Brakes
My original speedo cable broke and I ordered a repro and it came with those plastic ends which I didn't like,plus it was 3" longer than the GM original. So I took my old cable to a speedometer shop and for 25 bucks they made me one exactly like my original. Lubed it up ,slid it back in my original housing,works great. Maybe he could try that. I'm beginning to think he might have a bad speedo head.