Wiring Harness Connector Pins
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Wiring Harness Connector Pins
I am removing three pins from the interior side of the firewall wiring harness on my '66 to install new wires (the old ones have been clipped right at the pin and there is nothing to splice a new wire to). I got the pins out of the connector and I got the old wire out of the pin by carefully unfolding the pin but I am afraid the 42 year old pin will not withstand a second crimping. Does anyone know where I can buy replacement pins for this connector? They are not like anything I have seen before.
#2
Moderator
I had a pin that wouldn't work (big red wire) and I just hard wired it. Been fine for 5 years now. You could get an old harness and take a pin out I suppose. I've got an old one here somewhere.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
I have an old harness also and I have already robbed one pin out of it because I broke one of the three I need trying to pry it apart. Problem is they are 42 years old also. By the way, the big red wire is one of the three I need to replace. By ‘hard wire’ do you mean that you took the bare wire and pushed it into the connector block?
#4
Drifting
I'm guessing, but I think he means that he removed the pins from both sides of the connector block (male and female) and ran a solid, insulated wire through the hole so he has a one-piece wire running from the ignition switch to the starter. You could contact one of the companies that makes new harnesses, Lectric Limited or M&H, and see if they'll sell you a few of those connector pins.
#6
Melting Slicks
I'm guessing, but I think he means that he removed the pins from both sides of the connector block (male and female) and ran a solid, insulated wire through the hole so he has a one-piece wire running from the ignition switch to the starter. You could contact one of the companies that makes new harnesses, Lectric Limited or M&H, and see if they'll sell you a few of those connector pins.
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
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If you want to get around the big red wire without cutting into your harness, check out the 50 amp cabin supply diagram and pic near the bottom of this web page: http://www.corvetteforum.net/classics/magicmachine
If you want me to cut a connector out of my old engine harness and mail it to you, PM me your street address.
I will tell you that even the battery cabin supply connector (for the big red wire) in the repop harness I bought turned black in short order. That's why I created the workaround cabin supply line with a 50amp circuit breaker.
PS I found the 50 amp Anderson connector and the GM style lugs and plastic connectors with a web search. You can delete the extra circuit breaker and pump/stereo relay and connections. If you do, just connect the 8awg supply to the ignition switch connector and the dash harness by pulling the red dash harness line from the ignition switch connector. At that point, your damaged bulkhead connector red wire is redundant.
If you want me to cut a connector out of my old engine harness and mail it to you, PM me your street address.
I will tell you that even the battery cabin supply connector (for the big red wire) in the repop harness I bought turned black in short order. That's why I created the workaround cabin supply line with a 50amp circuit breaker.
PS I found the 50 amp Anderson connector and the GM style lugs and plastic connectors with a web search. You can delete the extra circuit breaker and pump/stereo relay and connections. If you do, just connect the 8awg supply to the ignition switch connector and the dash harness by pulling the red dash harness line from the ignition switch connector. At that point, your damaged bulkhead connector red wire is redundant.
Last edited by magicv8; 12-21-2007 at 11:34 AM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Joe Lucia told me that these hair pin clips have been discontinued by GM since 1983. The repro guys must have their own made up and they will not sell parts, I've tried as well. If you need a couple new pins feel free to contact me.
#10
I got the pins out of the connector and I got the old wire out of the pin by carefully unfolding the pin but I am afraid the 42 year old pin will not withstand a second crimping. Does anyone know where I can buy replacement pins for this connector? They are not like anything I have seen before.
The terminal you are looking for is called a "Twin Lock" series of terminal. It has no gender, since it mates with itself. The 66 and 67 bulkhead connectors are the same. The problem will be getting the twinlock terminals out of the old bulkhead without damaging them. Twinlock terminals have 2 locking tangs that must be depressed before you can pull the terminal out of the bulkhead. The best tool to use to push down the tangs is a small jewellers flathead screwdriver that is about .050" or smaller. Once the tangs are pressed down, the terminal should come out freely. You must also lift the tangs back up before you plug the terminal into the new bulkhead, so that they look like the picture in the post.
The original part numbers for the terminals are:
02973915 18-20 Gage
02973916 14-16 Gage
02973917 12 Gage
I do not know of any reliable source for these since they have been discontinued by the OEM (Packard Electric, which is now Delphi) many yrs ago. Someone else must still be making them as the harness manufactures can still get them. Here is a original drawing from Delphi
http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdm...01_S01.tif.pdf
#11
Melting Slicks
undee70ss
Welcome and nice first post! Embedded pic with a PDF to boot. Got it saved in my wiring folder. Good info on the connector pins for the bulkhead connectors.
You might want to give us some profile info so that you don't get that gentle nudge (oops I guess that was it) that many folks do. Folks tend to like to know where people are from.
Thanks for the info and once again, welcome to the Forum!
DZ
Welcome and nice first post! Embedded pic with a PDF to boot. Got it saved in my wiring folder. Good info on the connector pins for the bulkhead connectors.
You might want to give us some profile info so that you don't get that gentle nudge (oops I guess that was it) that many folks do. Folks tend to like to know where people are from.
Thanks for the info and once again, welcome to the Forum!
DZ
#12
Safety Car
Just an idea:
May be worth trying to anneal (soften) them with a small butane torch to remove the work hardening. Look for a 'Pencil Torch' at your local hobby & craft store.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Undee70ss
Wow!
Pretty impressive information. Original terminal name, original part number, original OEM vendor (and current name), original vendor drawing, and tips on how to unlock the used terminal. All on one of the most obscure subassembly parts I could imagine. What the heck is your background? Could you come to my house on weekends and help?
Thanks to all who responded to my plee for information on this. I would not have thought I would get this much information.
Wow!
Pretty impressive information. Original terminal name, original part number, original OEM vendor (and current name), original vendor drawing, and tips on how to unlock the used terminal. All on one of the most obscure subassembly parts I could imagine. What the heck is your background? Could you come to my house on weekends and help?
Thanks to all who responded to my plee for information on this. I would not have thought I would get this much information.
#14
Tech Contributor
#15
Undee70ss
Wow!
Pretty impressive information. Original terminal name, original part number, original OEM vendor (and current name), original vendor drawing, and tips on how to unlock the used terminal. All on one of the most obscure subassembly parts I could imagine. What the heck is your background? Could you come to my house on weekends and help?
Thanks to all who responded to my plee for information on this. I would not have thought I would get this much information.
Wow!
Pretty impressive information. Original terminal name, original part number, original OEM vendor (and current name), original vendor drawing, and tips on how to unlock the used terminal. All on one of the most obscure subassembly parts I could imagine. What the heck is your background? Could you come to my house on weekends and help?
Thanks to all who responded to my plee for information on this. I would not have thought I would get this much information.
#16
Drifting
Try Del-City or Waytek, look under terminals. Make sure you use the special crimp tool to crimp the insulation of the wire first, then the actual bare strain wire 2nd. onto the replacement terminal, after using the tool your repair/replacement will look factory...
#18
Pro
#19
I found some!!
Having found the proper name of these connectors, eBay turned up one U.S. source for Twin Lock Connector . I bought two packs of 10. Another source in Australia, but says won't ship to US.
Google turned up another source in Australia. Maybe the same guy as the OZ seller on eBay...
https://bluewireautomotive.com/produ...lock-terminals
Google turned up another source in Australia. Maybe the same guy as the OZ seller on eBay...
https://bluewireautomotive.com/produ...lock-terminals
#20
Team Owner
Letric Limited has sold them for years as part of a repair kit.