Silverblue64

Is there a secret on how to jack up the front end without damaging the lower part of the crossmember? I have tried so far with and without a block of wood on the jack pad and it still looks like it is going to flatten the crossmember.
Any ideas?

Thanks

DansYellow66

A big block of wood that runs all the way from front to rear to catch the upright sections of the boxed crossmember should be fine and keep it from being damaged. I also use two small 2 ton lifts under the outer area of the lower control arms to lift the car. Because of the lower shock mounts and spring pockets it's a little tricky positioning the jacks but it works welll unless your needing to drop the control arm to replace ball joints or something. I cradel the outer edge of the spring pocket in the jack puck and pad it with a piece of cut up rubber pickup bed liner. I place jack stands under the frame for safety but don't lower the entire full weight of the car on to them.

jkuzzy

I am not sure of your application, but I use a set of heavy duty plastic ramps for most everything I do. They cost me $30 and they are fantastic to get things done like oil changes, power steering installation, starter replacement, etc.

Silverblue64

Thanks Dan.
I hadn't thought about placing the 2x4 block that way. I tried to keep the load off the crossmember by placing the block so that it supported the car on the lower bumper brackets but that didn't look to safe though.
I will try your suggestion

Thanks again,
Steven

Silverblue64

Sorry I should have explained, I'm removing the control arms, shocks and springs. The bushings are all shot and the springs are sagging quite a bit from age. I just finished the rear end going through the same thing and am very happy with the results.
Now the front suspension gets repaired/replaced.
I just wanted to know how to raise the front up so I can get the jack stands positioned without damaging the lower crossmember.

Thanks!

DansYellow66

I wouldn't necessarily go with a 2x4 if you have some 2x6 or 2x8 lumber around. The more wood the better. 2 pieces of 2x6 stacked should be stout enough to not deflect any from the jack pressure and avoid any possibility of bending the lower crossmember steel plate.

Dan

zim64

I have a piece of 1/4" steel that is 12" long and 6" wide that has a piece of 3/4" (I think) round stock 2" long to go into the hole in the crossmember, and another piece of roundstock that goes into the hole in the jack frame where the round jack pad usually resides. This allows me to move the car around when the front is in the air without fear of it falling off the jack.

LenPalmer

I did the same work you did on my 64 so hopefully the following helps:

Areas to consider:

1. Jacking the front.

2. Careful on ride height.

3. Aligning the rear.

1. When I did the front, I jacked the car using the car frame rearward of the front wheels on each side. I lifted the car with a floor jack and then used jack stands on each side. I believe the owner's manual shows where to raise the car to change a tire so did the same to replace much of the front mechanicals.

2. I had a problem with ride height after I put new, correct front springs in. I did not replace the rear leaf so maybe it has sagged.
I guess my thought is just make sure you get the exact springs to match the original installation and hopefully it will drop to the correct ride height to match the rear of your car.

3. I had a pretty tough time getting the rear end aligned on my 64 when I did the same work you did.

The correct shims have round holes which means you need to remove the bolt that holds the trailing arm in place.

The problem is tension created by the leaf spring.

You can use a screw jack under the leaf spring on each side which will cause the front of the trailing arm to lower in small increments so you can get the bolt hole perfectly aligned, put the shims in place, and get the bolt back into position.

It was also recommended that you put a wood block in the frame pocket for the trailing arm so that if the jack slips, the trailing arm won't fly up and hurt a finger or hand.

Len

project63

Hmmm, that's what she said too...

Silverblue64

Thanks for all the suggestions
I have some 2x6 blocks that I can use. That should do the trick.

Now I can't wait to see how I'm going to get the upper control arms out
This car is a learning experience!

Silverblue64

Uhh............I better not go there.