53 to 57 hood adjustments
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
53 to 57 hood adjustments
OK let me try and make this simple
I see hood hinges and pop-ups where the holes are extra elongated trying to fit the hood on 53 to 57 Corvettes all the time. That's because few know how to adjust or know what to do to make the hood fit and open CORRECTLY .
1. The pop-ups are there to only lift the hood front line UP when you release the rear latch's pulling the hood cable so as to NOT chip the paint on the body.
2. The hood HINGES are moveable (only a little to AID in pulling the hood FRONT area DOWN ) in the last few inch's of closing.
3. The two fiberglass stoppers holes are elongated so that you can move them UP or Down to meet the thickness of the HOOD when closed.
4.Now if the front hood line sits too high , adding shims ONLY at the hinge top bolt on both sides will canter the angle pulling the hood line down.
5." Repro" pop-up AND rear male hood pins's springs {suck} because the wire is too thick making the front pop-ups to strong and cause the rear hood male pins to open when driving. ( if you cut a coil off to where the spring just put a little tension on the cup , your problem will be solved .
6. Number 5 is why you see the hood male latch and female latch holes elongated also.
7. A good looking working hood is when the hood front line pops-up at the same time the rear latch's pop-up, that's HOW it works PEROID .
PS the reason you see some one using both hands to lift the hood if adjusted correct is because the hood bracing BOND has come loose from the hood skin.
PS again the front hood hinges are designed to go OVER CENTER to pull the hood down compressing the pop-ups. That's WHY it has TWO arms!!!!!!
I see hood hinges and pop-ups where the holes are extra elongated trying to fit the hood on 53 to 57 Corvettes all the time. That's because few know how to adjust or know what to do to make the hood fit and open CORRECTLY .
1. The pop-ups are there to only lift the hood front line UP when you release the rear latch's pulling the hood cable so as to NOT chip the paint on the body.
2. The hood HINGES are moveable (only a little to AID in pulling the hood FRONT area DOWN ) in the last few inch's of closing.
3. The two fiberglass stoppers holes are elongated so that you can move them UP or Down to meet the thickness of the HOOD when closed.
4.Now if the front hood line sits too high , adding shims ONLY at the hinge top bolt on both sides will canter the angle pulling the hood line down.
5." Repro" pop-up AND rear male hood pins's springs {suck} because the wire is too thick making the front pop-ups to strong and cause the rear hood male pins to open when driving. ( if you cut a coil off to where the spring just put a little tension on the cup , your problem will be solved .
6. Number 5 is why you see the hood male latch and female latch holes elongated also.
7. A good looking working hood is when the hood front line pops-up at the same time the rear latch's pop-up, that's HOW it works PEROID .
PS the reason you see some one using both hands to lift the hood if adjusted correct is because the hood bracing BOND has come loose from the hood skin.
PS again the front hood hinges are designed to go OVER CENTER to pull the hood down compressing the pop-ups. That's WHY it has TWO arms!!!!!!
#2
Safety Car
Thank you for the great description!
Now if you could only explain to me how to adjust my trunk lid I would be forever in your debt. The leading edge sits up about 3/4 of an inch above the hinge arms. The middle is 1/4 inch high but I can't seem to get spacers to bring down above the hinges.
Now if you could only explain to me how to adjust my trunk lid I would be forever in your debt. The leading edge sits up about 3/4 of an inch above the hinge arms. The middle is 1/4 inch high but I can't seem to get spacers to bring down above the hinges.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thank you for the great description!
Now if you could only explain to me how to adjust my trunk lid I would be forever in your debt. The leading edge sits up about 3/4 of an inch above the hinge arms. The middle is 1/4 inch high but I can't seem to get spacers to bring down above the hinges.
Now if you could only explain to me how to adjust my trunk lid I would be forever in your debt. The leading edge sits up about 3/4 of an inch above the hinge arms. The middle is 1/4 inch high but I can't seem to get spacers to bring down above the hinges.
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#6
Larry
#8
Thanks for reply, I looked for them at Corvette Central again but no luck, apparently they have discontinued them. Too bad I sure would have given them a try. One more question - do they allow the hood to fit flush with the body on the front edge? I'm not giving up just yet, would appreciate a heads up if you ever see them advertised again.
#10
Melting Slicks
I agree with Roy on the repo pop up springs being too big. I have used the springs from the male hood pins from 63-67 as a substitute. They are correct diameter and have a much lower spring rate.
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Pendleton IN
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Modifications to Radiator Fiberglass
With the adjustments that can be made to the original parts, I would stay away from the CC hinges if my car were very original.
Yes, they do work and I used them on a 54 street rod. I like them but did have to cut out the radiator fiberglass.
Just my opinion. Everybody has one.
Yes, they do work and I used them on a 54 street rod. I like them but did have to cut out the radiator fiberglass.
Just my opinion. Everybody has one.
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Is it restored original
People that used the CC hinges all told me that they could not understand how to adjust the original parts // but took the time to understand how to make the rest of their Corvette CLOSE to original . I don't get it!
The same people buy mostly repro parts again saying they dint wont to clean or restore a part. I don't get it!
The same people will tell other people how rare and original their Corvette is . I don't get it!
The same people will then tell me how much big $$ it's worth . I dont get it!
The same people cry when they go to sell their Corvette and wonder why the guy that knows what is right or wrong passes on the Corvette. They don't get it !
I could mention many more discussions I've had with those people , but they will never get it!
The same people buy mostly repro parts again saying they dint wont to clean or restore a part. I don't get it!
The same people will tell other people how rare and original their Corvette is . I don't get it!
The same people will then tell me how much big $$ it's worth . I dont get it!
The same people cry when they go to sell their Corvette and wonder why the guy that knows what is right or wrong passes on the Corvette. They don't get it !
I could mention many more discussions I've had with those people , but they will never get it!
#16
Thanks for the part number, I wasn't able to find it on their website but the part number did the trick. Also had a picture which shows how much fiberglass modification is needed. Not something I would use on an original type car but my 55 isn't original. I will give 1955 copper's instructions a very serious try before I make the change.
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Roy's post (#1 in this thread) is right on the money. The key to getting a '53-'57 hood fit at the front is to understand that the parallelogram 2-link hinges go over-center in the closed position, and the two screw-on plastic bumpers are what positions the front of the hood when it's closed - the bottom surface of the front of the hood sits on those two bumpers. The pop-ups are only there to help the hinges come off the over-center position when you pull the release handle; if you have the wrong springs on the pop-ups (too strong), you'll never be able to fit the front of the hood AND have it pop up to clear the front end panel when you open it so you don't scrape paint.
#18
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Hudson North Carolina
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Nice fit John. OK they didn't use shims out of the gate so how do you adjust the original hinges and tell if you have original pop-up springs. I'd like to get my hood looking like that without using the shims I have installed now
#19
Safety Car
Thread Starter
JohnZ thanks for the compliment -56heap to see if you have the right original pop-ups ,if you can push down the cup easily there original, hard repro's. Having shims is not unusual , many Corvettes from the factory have them . The most original's I've seen use about 1/8 thick , if more are needed you don't have the hinges adjusted correct or the vett had front damage or or !! If I saw your hinge area I might be able to see what's wrong. I've held work shops at NCRS and SACE showing people how to fit a C1 body, hood-doors, windshield and soft top.
#20
Burning Brakes
Roy and John - If I am understanding you right, the inner arm of the hinge, where it pivots, is supposed to go "over center" as the hood is closed, right? In other words, is the pivot point supposed to go from an "aft" position when it is open to a forward position when the hood is closed? Mine stays in the aft position, open and closed