fastburn 383 gm crate
#1
fastburn 383 gm crate
Has any one put GM fast Burn 385 turn key crate engine (part #19201331) in a 65 c-2.
I am worried about ft. crank pulley clearance with the serpentine accessory belt drive system? Also the hood clearance and air cleaner.
Any other thoughts would be helpfull.
I am worried about ft. crank pulley clearance with the serpentine accessory belt drive system? Also the hood clearance and air cleaner.
Any other thoughts would be helpfull.
#3
Melting Slicks
I think the fast burn uses vortec heads, i.e. requires a different intake manifold and valve covers. That zz383 looks like it uses the center bolt valve covers. For me I would want the old style heads so you can use all the old valve covers and manifolds for a simpler bolt in.(unless you want to change)
#4
Drifting
Yes the zz383 has Vortec heads and does require a different intake. Center bolt valve covers as you have noted. You also have to account for oil fill and breather requirements.
Dennis
Dennis
#5
Race Director
Don't let center bolt valve cover heads stop you if this is the engine you really want. They make adapters so you can use the original Corvette valve covers. With a little effort you can make that engine look like it belongs in there (not of course to the trained eye).
#6
Race Director
Hood clearance is no different that that of a ZZ motor as they are based on the same platform. It will be necessary to use a stock drop base airfilter and depending on your car a 2" vs a 3" air filter to gain hood clearance. The intake comes on the engine so it won't be a problem and then the other comments about the center bolt valve covers.. you guys know that the heads have provisions for the older four bolt valve covers for almost five years now...
Hitch
Hitch
#7
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It will all be about the height of the intake+carb+air cleaner with the vortec head style intake manifold. Be careful when you put a drop-base air cleaner on the car. I put the stock 1965 396 drop base on mine because it fit perfectly around my holley 670SA. I used the stock 327/300 top because I already had it and it is shaped for the SB hood. With this setup, I had very little clearance between the choke tower and the a/c top for air flow and I ended up cutting off the choke. I am using a 3" filter.
The other issue I had was that the rod for the throttle linkage hit the bottom of the a/c base at full throttle (got stuck and was exciting). I had to modify the base for clearance.
The other issue I had was that the rod for the throttle linkage hit the bottom of the a/c base at full throttle (got stuck and was exciting). I had to modify the base for clearance.
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12366573 intake is 5 3/8" tall from top of block to the highest part of manifold. I would assume that this is to the carb pad. To figure out if it all fits, you will need to measure what you have now and the clearance. Just looking at the turnkey pictures, I can tell you that there is no way it will fit with the supplied air cleaner, intake and carb combo.
If it were me, I would not go with the turnkey. I would fit up an intake/carb/air cleaner combo myself and put v-belt accessories on. I am skeptical about the accesories too - they look very tall and wide to me.
Greg
If it were me, I would not go with the turnkey. I would fit up an intake/carb/air cleaner combo myself and put v-belt accessories on. I am skeptical about the accesories too - they look very tall and wide to me.
Greg
#9
Melting Slicks
I had to use a 2 or 2.5 inch element when I went to non-OEM drop base air cleaner and I still have less than 1/4" clearance. I actually have rubbing mark on the hood from when the engine twists in its mounts. Non-Vortech heads and Performer intake with 1/2 heat spacer.
#10
Melting Slicks
A friend put that engine in a C3 chassis (same as late C2) and had serpentine drive clearance problems. As I recall, it required a modification to the idler pulley mount to move a new longer belt away from the A arm shaft. He also had to solve a front crossmember clearance issue. I think it would be far easier to use original belts and pulleys and replace the water pump (direction of rotation).
Harry
Edit, should be more specific: front crossmember modification is necessary for front pulley clearance.
Harry
Edit, should be more specific: front crossmember modification is necessary for front pulley clearance.
Last edited by 66since71; 04-04-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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If you look through the archives, you will find lots of discussion on what fits. As you said, the biggest issues will be the top and front of the engine.
Lots of guys have put ZZ4s and ZZ383s in a C2. I'm not sure about the GM intake, but the Edlebrock RPM air-gap has the same A and B dimensions for vortec or conventional heads. This means that the carb base is in the same relative position to the top of the block in both cases. If this is true with the GM intake, you just have to figure out what fits with a carb/air cleaner.
The engine comes with a holley 750 carb that is 4150-based. I am running a 4150 carb also. As I said, this style carb should fit a small block hood with a drop-base air cleaner. IMHO, the best drop base is the stock big block drop base because it has a nice smooth flow path and is made to specifically around a Holley 4150-style carb. (note my earlier post regarding throttle linkage). The only issue is that the choke tower on the primaries leaves a very small gap for the air to flow. When the throttles are full open, the secondaries are open and are not blocked by the tower. This mitigates the issue somewhat, but if you look in the archives, you will find plenty of folks who noticed a difference when they increased primary flow. Once again, IMHO, taking the choke off (or better yet, buying a carb with no choke that is designed to flow this way), significantly improves performance. The gain is worth the slight hassle of warming the car without a choke.
Picture of my setup. Also note the clearance at the balancer.
Lots of guys have put ZZ4s and ZZ383s in a C2. I'm not sure about the GM intake, but the Edlebrock RPM air-gap has the same A and B dimensions for vortec or conventional heads. This means that the carb base is in the same relative position to the top of the block in both cases. If this is true with the GM intake, you just have to figure out what fits with a carb/air cleaner.
The engine comes with a holley 750 carb that is 4150-based. I am running a 4150 carb also. As I said, this style carb should fit a small block hood with a drop-base air cleaner. IMHO, the best drop base is the stock big block drop base because it has a nice smooth flow path and is made to specifically around a Holley 4150-style carb. (note my earlier post regarding throttle linkage). The only issue is that the choke tower on the primaries leaves a very small gap for the air to flow. When the throttles are full open, the secondaries are open and are not blocked by the tower. This mitigates the issue somewhat, but if you look in the archives, you will find plenty of folks who noticed a difference when they increased primary flow. Once again, IMHO, taking the choke off (or better yet, buying a carb with no choke that is designed to flow this way), significantly improves performance. The gain is worth the slight hassle of warming the car without a choke.
Picture of my setup. Also note the clearance at the balancer.
#12
Melting Slicks
A friend put that engine in a C3 chassis (same as late C2) and had serpentine drive clearance problems. As I recall, it required a modification to the idler pulley mount to move a new longer belt away from the A arm shaft. He also had to solve a front crossmember clearance issue. I think it would be far easier to use original belts and pulleys and replace the water pump (direction of rotation).
#13
Melting Slicks
If you look through the archives, you will find lots of discussion on what fits. As you said, the biggest issues will be the top and front of the engine.
Lots of guys have put ZZ4s and ZZ383s in a C2. I'm not sure about the GM intake, but the Edlebrock RPM air-gap has the same A and B dimensions for vortec or conventional heads. This means that the carb base is in the same relative position to the top of the block in both cases. If this is true with the GM intake, you just have to figure out what fits with a carb/air cleaner.
The engine comes with a holley 750 carb that is 4150-based. I am running a 4150 carb also. As I said, this style carb should fit a small block hood with a drop-base air cleaner. IMHO, the best drop base is the stock big block drop base because it has a nice smooth flow path and is made to specifically around a Holley 4150-style carb. (note my earlier post regarding throttle linkage). The only issue is that the choke tower on the primaries leaves a very small gap for the air to flow. When the throttles are full open, the secondaries are open and are not blocked by the tower. This mitigates the issue somewhat, but if you look in the archives, you will find plenty of folks who noticed a difference when they increased primary flow. Once again, IMHO, taking the choke off (or better yet, buying a carb with no choke that is designed to flow this way), significantly improves performance. The gain is worth the slight hassle of warming the car without a choke.
Lots of guys have put ZZ4s and ZZ383s in a C2. I'm not sure about the GM intake, but the Edlebrock RPM air-gap has the same A and B dimensions for vortec or conventional heads. This means that the carb base is in the same relative position to the top of the block in both cases. If this is true with the GM intake, you just have to figure out what fits with a carb/air cleaner.
The engine comes with a holley 750 carb that is 4150-based. I am running a 4150 carb also. As I said, this style carb should fit a small block hood with a drop-base air cleaner. IMHO, the best drop base is the stock big block drop base because it has a nice smooth flow path and is made to specifically around a Holley 4150-style carb. (note my earlier post regarding throttle linkage). The only issue is that the choke tower on the primaries leaves a very small gap for the air to flow. When the throttles are full open, the secondaries are open and are not blocked by the tower. This mitigates the issue somewhat, but if you look in the archives, you will find plenty of folks who noticed a difference when they increased primary flow. Once again, IMHO, taking the choke off (or better yet, buying a carb with no choke that is designed to flow this way), significantly improves performance. The gain is worth the slight hassle of warming the car without a choke.
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Yes, right on the money. I think that using the stock cover helps since it is shaped like the hood - and I don't have a spacer in there like you do. No extra clearance, but it does not hit....
#15
Thanks for the imput. The belt system crank pulley needs 6.25 inches from front of block to
outter edge of pulley. I do not have an engine in the frame so i can not measure. Using a straight edge i think it will fit.
outter edge of pulley. I do not have an engine in the frame so i can not measure. Using a straight edge i think it will fit.
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I just measured mine. There is just under 6 1/4 from the block to the cross member if you don't account for the BBC cutout. What is the diameter of the pulley? It may fit if the pulley fits in the BB cutout.
#17
Melting Slicks
Harry
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I think it fits
Dave,
Below are some pics I just took. I have an 8" balancer. The first pic shows the measurement from the block to the front of the balancer at just over 3 3/4"
The second image has the rule at 2 1/2 from the front of the balancer - just over 6 1/4 total. It clears the frame by a bit. The BB cutout also gives you some extra room to get the belt on. Also, with my straightedge on the bottom of the balancer, it looks like the entire pulley will be just above the frame anyway.
BTW, my frame is not really that nasty! It just came out that way with the flash!
Below are some pics I just took. I have an 8" balancer. The first pic shows the measurement from the block to the front of the balancer at just over 3 3/4"
The second image has the rule at 2 1/2 from the front of the balancer - just over 6 1/4 total. It clears the frame by a bit. The BB cutout also gives you some extra room to get the belt on. Also, with my straightedge on the bottom of the balancer, it looks like the entire pulley will be just above the frame anyway.
BTW, my frame is not really that nasty! It just came out that way with the flash!