Fuel System Cleaners
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Fuel System Cleaners
Has anyone had any problems using a fuel system cleaner (Valvoline, Gumout, STP etc....) in their C2 ?? Not a Carb spray/cleaner but a bottle of cleaner you dump into the gas tank when you fill up which runs through the entire system.
#4
Race Director
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Wow....., I've never heard of it. I checked out their website and it sounds like a great product. Has anyone else used "Seafoam" in their older cars ??? Is there anything I need to be aware of (any potential pitfalls) ?? Thanks for the info.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Great. Also used it in my '95 Grand Cherokee (V8) with 212K miles and my son's '93 BMW with 185+K miles. I really noticed a difference in the BMW as it's injectors were pretty clogged. He uses cheap gas and doesn't ever really "get on it" like it should be driven. He's away at school so I've been driving his car for the past couple of tank fulls of gas and it's like a new(er) car.
#8
Instructor
I use Schaeffer's Netra fuel stabilizer. It is also a fuel drier, injector cleaner and diesel treatment. Use a good dose in all motorized items before storing for the winter. Run some through all the vehicles once every other month. Four of use just went in on a thirty gallon barrel of it last month. Can be purchased in smaller quantities. Used it for many years. Works great for us.
Wendell
Wendell
#9
Race Director
Great. Also used it in my '95 Grand Cherokee (V8) with 212K miles and my son's '93 BMW with 185+K miles. I really noticed a difference in the BMW as it's injectors were pretty clogged. He uses cheap gas and doesn't ever really "get on it" like it should be driven. He's away at school so I've been driving his car for the past couple of tank fulls of gas and it's like a new(er) car.
I have used seafoam on many vehicles. It is a good product.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
I use Schaeffer's Netra fuel stabilizer. It is also a fuel drier, injector cleaner and diesel treatment. Use a good dose in all motorized items before storing for the winter. Run some through all the vehicles once every other month. Four of use just went in on a thirty gallon barrel of it last month. Can be purchased in smaller quantities. Used it for many years. Works great for us.
Wendell
Wendell
#12
Safety Car
I'm tring Chemtool B-12 in the tank to clean things out while driving. I really like their carb cleaning dip, as well as their carb spray, it's much stronger than anything else I've used. I'm curious to see if their in the tank product will help?
Paul
Last edited by Fawndeuce; 09-25-2008 at 12:06 PM.
#13
I've never used any stabiliser or any other additive in anything (large or small) since I started playing with big boy toys in the late 60s.
None of my toys (present inventory is 10) has ever had a problem starting after the storage season, including the 2 wheeled, 4 wheeled and tracked vehicles that I'ved owned since the early 70s, some since new.
What am I doing wrong? Why can't I have problems like you guys. I'm jealous.
None of my toys (present inventory is 10) has ever had a problem starting after the storage season, including the 2 wheeled, 4 wheeled and tracked vehicles that I'ved owned since the early 70s, some since new.
What am I doing wrong? Why can't I have problems like you guys. I'm jealous.
#15
Safety Car
I bought a four stroke snow blower (yea laugh you southerners) that had sat for about 3 years without running. The machine would'nt start, when I pulled the carb it was completely gummed and I had to rebuild it.
I don't think a few months would cause a problem, but anything past a year or two...
Paul
PS. Sorry I couldn't call the other day, NCRS end of season cruise is this Sunday, you get the email?
#16
Much easier to just stay home and flush the money down the toilet instead.
Something has to be 'broken' before you can 'fix it'. It's highly unlikely that the your engine is broken in a manner that this gizmo can fix.
But it's your money and if it helps you sleep at night.
Something has to be 'broken' before you can 'fix it'. It's highly unlikely that the your engine is broken in a manner that this gizmo can fix.
But it's your money and if it helps you sleep at night.
#17
(Sorry for the off topic) Yup got Robert's email. Will see you Sunday if the weather holds out. Can't drive a Corvette in the rain you know, the fibreglass might melt.
#18
For a severely clogged carb or intake manifold, GM's Top Engine Cleaner was the best. With engine running, pour half a can slowly into carb. Keep the other hand on the throttle rod to rev so it doesn't stall. Then pour the other half of the can in quickly, stalling the engine and filling to top of carb. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, you can hear it rumbling and burping like Drano. Then floor the gas and turn the key. BLAM! You would not believe the chunks of slag that are propelled from the tailpipe. Now do a plug change because they're fouled, and you have a C1 or C2 that runs like new. Don't know if dealers still carry this stuff.
For fuel injectors, the class of the pour-in-tank-and-fill field is Chevron Techroline. Costco sometimes has a four-pack for $10-$15.
For fuel injectors, the class of the pour-in-tank-and-fill field is Chevron Techroline. Costco sometimes has a four-pack for $10-$15.
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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[QUOTE=sub006;
and filling to top of carb. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, you can hear it rumbling and burping like Drano. Then floor the gas and turn the key. BLAM! You would not believe the chunks of slag that are propelled from the tailpipe. Now do a plug change because they're
fouled,
If you fill the carb up to the top with the engine off and then start it up, there'll be no need to change the plugs until you replace the bent rods.
and filling to top of carb. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, you can hear it rumbling and burping like Drano. Then floor the gas and turn the key. BLAM! You would not believe the chunks of slag that are propelled from the tailpipe. Now do a plug change because they're
fouled,
If you fill the carb up to the top with the engine off and then start it up, there'll be no need to change the plugs until you replace the bent rods.
#20
[QUOTE=MikeM;1567240162][QUOTE=sub006;
and filling to top of carb. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, you can hear it rumbling and burping like Drano. Then floor the gas and turn the key. BLAM! You would not believe the chunks of slag that are propelled from the tailpipe. Now do a plug change because they're
fouled,
If you fill the carb up to the top with the engine off and then start it up, there'll be no need to change the plugs until you replace the bent rods. [/QUOTE]
And how would that clean the INSIDE of the carb? I never use a Stabilizer in anything. If it is a small engine, I just run it out of gas. My vehicles, I just top off. Modern gas does not have the varnishing problems that were present 20 years ago.
and filling to top of carb. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, you can hear it rumbling and burping like Drano. Then floor the gas and turn the key. BLAM! You would not believe the chunks of slag that are propelled from the tailpipe. Now do a plug change because they're
fouled,
If you fill the carb up to the top with the engine off and then start it up, there'll be no need to change the plugs until you replace the bent rods. [/QUOTE]
And how would that clean the INSIDE of the carb? I never use a Stabilizer in anything. If it is a small engine, I just run it out of gas. My vehicles, I just top off. Modern gas does not have the varnishing problems that were present 20 years ago.