gavanm01

Just got back from a 270 mile trip tonight; noticed from the git-go that battery gauge was slightly on the discharge side. The last 90 miles were run with headlights and there was a serious drop into the discharge side. Battery was dead when I got home. I'm too young to remember what we did with generators years ago with this problem. Do I shoot it? Take it to the village priest for an exorcism? Hit it with a hammer? All of the above? Belt is tight, no loose wires that I can see. Got the trickle charge on the battery for now. Help!

Shurshot

IMO.........First I would go to the battery when the charge is up and test that. Then if that passes I would move to the alternator although I would remove it and take it to a shop that works on them........ you would not go wrong by having it upgraded to put out more amps if you have one of the smaller ones.

Then the regulator would be next on my list...... btw for me they have been a weak point and if you have an original and do not need it for judging I would upgrade it.

I think once the day gets going here you will get a lot of qualified advice for your problem

Good luck

Doug

66BlkBB

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If I remember correctly some of the old generator setups had adjustable points in the voltage regulators. If you have the old type voltage regulator you should be able to remove the cover to inspect the points. That was one way to get more voltage. The only other thing might be that the brushes in the generator are bad (worn down) and will have to be replaced.

Good luck.

Steve

gavanm01

Thanks, will be looking forward to others chiming in. Plan to make a 200 mile (each way) trip with the car this weekend--still going if I have to push the darn thing.

wombvette

From the symptoms, I would say its the gen or the regulator. In all old repair manuals there is a quick isolation test to determine which one. Basically this is just applying voltage to the field and checking the output of the alternator. Then you know which one to go after.

jim lockwood

You said you have a generator as opposed to an alternator.

Assuming that's so, do this:

1. Connect a Voltmeter to the generator output terminal
2. Start the engine. The Voltmeter will probably read something at or less than 12 Volts since you noted the Ammeter indicated a discharge
3. While watching the Voltmeter, momentarily ground the Field terminal of the generator.

If the generator is good, the Voltmeter should instantly read 17 or 18 Volts and your regulator is in need of work

If there is no change in the Voltmeter reading, investigate the generator.

Jim

DZAUTO

If NOTHING has changed, then it is highly probable that either the GENERATOR (there's a world of difference between generators and alternators for the youngins here ) or voltage regulator has failed. My money is on the generator, and it could be just as simple as the brushes have finally worn down to nothing-------------WOULDN'T THAT BE GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!
At one time, there were local generator/starter shops almost everywhere. But now in today's world of just "replace it", they are becoming far and few between. If your generator is the original to the car, or if it is AT LEAST a correct generator, HAVE IT REBUILT, DON'T SWAP IT!!!!!!!!

If the voltage regulator has gone bad, AND IF IT IS A CORRECT STYLE DELCO REGULATOR, don't toss it!!!!!!!!!!!!! You may be able to find an aftermarket replacement and just put your Delco cover on the new regulator.
But, again, my choice would be to have John Pirkle rebuilt it for you. Sorry, I don't have John's contact info. Anyone here have it?

For these early cars that don't have all the electrical power requirements that are on today's cars, the generator system is more than adequate for supplying all of your electrical needs. Plus, a generator is correct for 62-earlier cars. So, save it and rebuild it, ESPECIALLY IF IT HAS THE ORIGINAL TAG ON IT!

John S 1961

The standard procedure for testing a generator is to remove it and find the nearest body of water. Toss it in, if it floats then its a good generator, if it sinks it was bad.

I suggest stepping way up to 1963 technology and installing an alternator. Alternators are generally know for actually keeping a battery charged.

Oh yes also consider disc brakes and an electronic ignition.

best of luck
JLS

Frankie the Fink

You just need to measure the voltage across the battery terminals - if you have between 13.8V and say 14.5V at a couple thousand RPMs the generator is working - so you prob have battery problems or corrosion; if the voltage is around 12V the generator is prob NOT working and it could just be brushes. If the voltage is spiking up 16V or even higher the regulator is the culprit. I wouldn't ground or jumper any terminals - these tests usually isolate the problem...

If its your voltage regulator consider a solid state replacement - there is only ONE place to get these for GENERATOR cars (plenty around for alternator cars) and if you want to go that route let me know and I'll give you the info for the guy that does the conversion (he even keeps it inside your same V/R case).

Godholio

I just want to say that I will use this line every time the opportunity arises...awesome!

Ron Miller

You might also want to look at the "Gener-nator" post here just a few more posts down from yours!!! Looks like a good way to go!!

1snake

The easiest and best way to check output AND rule out the volt. reg. is to disconnect all the wires from the generator, hook a volt meter to the arm. terminal and start the car. You should have between 2-6 volts. Now ground the field terminal and you should get over 15 volts when you rev. the engine. If you do, you have a bad regulator. If you don't, you have a bad generator. Simple as that.

Jim

Ironcross

I would go with Tom on this one. I suspect the generator and its brushes. If the regulator was not working the voltage would be higher and a chance of the armature in the generator has thrown solder. If there is a silver line inside of the generators case then the armature is shot. Indicating the regulator is bad causing the generator to overhear and throwing the solder I mentioned. Without the silver line {melted Lead} the generator is salvageable. The armature can be sanded where the brushes contact it, but its best to undercut the armature too as would be done in a actual rebuild..Caution, if there is that line inside the case, the regulator caused it and it too is now bad and will blow another generator. Your better position is to take it to an electrical shop and have both tested.....

gavanm01

Well, shucks, gee whizz. What do ya know--picked up a Delco generator from a junked Chevy in the boneyard and discovered a black wire from the top of the voltage regulator that had not been reconnected when the mechanic was working on a new fuel line. Slapped the old one back in with the black wire connected to the generator housing and off I went for a 400 mile round trip weekend. Thanks all for your input on the output.