C1 windshield frame / soft top leak "fix"
#1
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C1 windshield frame / soft top leak "fix"
OK guys, what tricks have you used to completely seal the soft top where it "seals" to the windshield frame?
Every C1 I have ever looked at never seals completely (especially directly in front of the passenger area). I "assume" that there is a factory design/manufacturing flaw in that area (that can not be fixed using OEM parts/seals).
So what type of seals have you tried and what worked (if any)? This is for a "driver", not NCRS (so any cosmetically pleasing "system" of seals is acceptable)!
My first looksee evaluation says that an additional soft foam strip gasket laid into the existing soft top rubber seal channel would help seal that area. Rather than rely on just the OEM rubber seal (which is rather non compliant - even when new), a softer foam strip should help (well it certainly can't hurt!). And since it would go into the existing rubber seal, cosmetics are not really an issue.
Wife is tired of using towels to keep us semi dry!
And HO, Ho, Ho to all!
Plasticman
Every C1 I have ever looked at never seals completely (especially directly in front of the passenger area). I "assume" that there is a factory design/manufacturing flaw in that area (that can not be fixed using OEM parts/seals).
So what type of seals have you tried and what worked (if any)? This is for a "driver", not NCRS (so any cosmetically pleasing "system" of seals is acceptable)!
My first looksee evaluation says that an additional soft foam strip gasket laid into the existing soft top rubber seal channel would help seal that area. Rather than rely on just the OEM rubber seal (which is rather non compliant - even when new), a softer foam strip should help (well it certainly can't hurt!). And since it would go into the existing rubber seal, cosmetics are not really an issue.
Wife is tired of using towels to keep us semi dry!
And HO, Ho, Ho to all!
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 12-25-2008 at 10:38 AM.
#2
Race Director
I use paper shop towels. I roll a piece as tight as I can and then push it in with a screwdriver into all the void areas between the top and frame. It sounds real Bubba-like, but it works. I tried all the other methods:: new weatherstrip, foam strips, etc nothing works as well as the paper shop towel method. You want to push the pieces in tight enough to stop the leak, but not so much that it opens the gap further.
#3
Melting Slicks
Merry Christmas John!
Weather is rough today, will have to run the house AC. Nothing like December in Florida!
Anyway-your question: Tyler says the answer is easy, just install AC in your car and pressurize the cockpit. Better yet, install a supercharger and bleed off some of the pressure; if you start getting bends symptons, back off a little. Otherwise, there are a lot of white sales going on now.
Seriously, make sure the problem is not frame to windshield as compared to windshield to top. Inspect your windshield frame and make sure there are no top fasteners or metal strips which are contacting the frame which prevent the rubber from compressing. If the top weatherstrip fasteners are too long, they will bottom on the windshield frame before the rubber. You also have a lot of adjustments you can do on the latches; I had to add small rubber spacers on my hardtop hooks to get it tight. To test, direct a water hose stream towards the suspect area.
Looking forward to seeing the C1 group in 4 weeks at Old Town.
Anyway-your question: Tyler says the answer is easy, just install AC in your car and pressurize the cockpit. Better yet, install a supercharger and bleed off some of the pressure; if you start getting bends symptons, back off a little. Otherwise, there are a lot of white sales going on now.
Seriously, make sure the problem is not frame to windshield as compared to windshield to top. Inspect your windshield frame and make sure there are no top fasteners or metal strips which are contacting the frame which prevent the rubber from compressing. If the top weatherstrip fasteners are too long, they will bottom on the windshield frame before the rubber. You also have a lot of adjustments you can do on the latches; I had to add small rubber spacers on my hardtop hooks to get it tight. To test, direct a water hose stream towards the suspect area.
Looking forward to seeing the C1 group in 4 weeks at Old Town.
#4
Safety Car
#5
Race Director
.
There isn`t anything to stop the leaks. They just LEAK from everywhere and that was starting from day one as new. All the windshield does is keep the rain off your face. Just hope the original purchaser or dealer who ordered it checked the 'Deluxe Heater' box. Every early Vette except 62`s came with out a heater as standard equipment. Fortunately only about 10% were ordered without it. It was necessary for defrosting the windows in those rain soaked cockpits. ...
A rain coat helps John,..
There isn`t anything to stop the leaks. They just LEAK from everywhere and that was starting from day one as new. All the windshield does is keep the rain off your face. Just hope the original purchaser or dealer who ordered it checked the 'Deluxe Heater' box. Every early Vette except 62`s came with out a heater as standard equipment. Fortunately only about 10% were ordered without it. It was necessary for defrosting the windows in those rain soaked cockpits. ...
A rain coat helps John,..
#6
Racer
I use black electrical tape stretched over where the top meets the windshield frame. Then when I want to lower the top, I simply remove it and put a new strip on the next time. Works like a champ!
Now, the OTHER leaks into the cockpit is an entirely different story!!
Now, the OTHER leaks into the cockpit is an entirely different story!!
#7
Advanced
When I had my 59 back in the day, I always carried a big box of kleenex to mop up the water on the dash pad and the drips from the top of the windshield. And that was when the car was new!
Dave
Dave
#8
Race Director
Sure fire way to stop that leak: Don't drive in the rain.
Otehr than that, no idea. Mine never leaked very bad, only two places it leaks are the seam where the top stainless header meeets the side frames. Unfortunately, the drip on my left knee was like chinese water torture after a while, drip....drip....drip....drip
Doug
Otehr than that, no idea. Mine never leaked very bad, only two places it leaks are the seam where the top stainless header meeets the side frames. Unfortunately, the drip on my left knee was like chinese water torture after a while, drip....drip....drip....drip
Doug
#9
Safety Car
Your problem may be you have the wrong weatherstripping 56 to 59 was the first design that no one repro's but sells the later 60 to 62 saying it will work but it don't. This is the real original one so you just have to Mickey mouse your's to stop the leak.
#10
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Thanks guys, will take a look at it tomorrow and see if I just need a rain coat or a supercharged blower, or if something can be further added or adjusted!
Roy's seal pictures looks like a much more compliant design than what I have on the 62 (replaced in about 2002 and it looks like all the other seals I have seen). It looks more "foam like".
Plasticman
Roy's seal pictures looks like a much more compliant design than what I have on the 62 (replaced in about 2002 and it looks like all the other seals I have seen). It looks more "foam like".
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 12-25-2008 at 05:10 PM.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '07
Sure fire way to stop that leak: Don't drive in the rain.
Otehr than that, no idea. Mine never leaked very bad, only two places it leaks are the seam where the top stainless header meeets the side frames. Unfortunately, the drip on my left knee was like chinese water torture after a while, drip....drip....drip....drip
Doug
Otehr than that, no idea. Mine never leaked very bad, only two places it leaks are the seam where the top stainless header meeets the side frames. Unfortunately, the drip on my left knee was like chinese water torture after a while, drip....drip....drip....drip
Doug
#12
Race Director
I replaced mine a number of years ago with original GM piece and it leaked in the same places. My "stuff rolled paper towels" from the inside between the weatherstrip and metal frame works very well as once the paper swells from the water the leaks stop. I've even been able to put the top up and down and the paper stays in place until the next time it rains.