0Brian@CSofMD.com

The problem that you see is probably the tip of the iceberg. More than likely, there are problems in the rocker sections and the windshield frame too. Do yourself a favor, spend that money on another car.

LSUvetteguy

After looking at the pics the price is high. I would not match the high bidder at 15,600 much less the buy it now price. You can do a lot better price wise. Seems cheap getting into a mid-year for 17K but that car needs major bucks to approach driver status. I'd pass on this "deal" and save yourself some grief.

62Jeff

Ok. I had surmised that in order to remove the old drip rails, that perhaps enough of the surrounding fiberglass had to be impacted significantly enough to warrant externally-visible repairs.

If not, then I'll take a dremel to the bubbles and minor rust and see if I still have a solid piece to work with for now.

John McGraw

The only place that you will even have to touch the fiberglass is at the junction of the rear door pillar fiberglass and the lower section of the drip rail. Unfortunately, you will also have to seal the inside of the gutters with new sealant, and that will show. If your paint is not metallic, touch-up should not be a problem, but even with metallic paint, you can mask to the edge of the roof and the outside edge of the rear pillar for an invisible touch-up. The drip rails were originally filled with seam sealer and tooled to leave a channel for water to run through. The old seam sealer hardened and cracked, allowing water to get behind it, accelerating the rust-out. When I repair them, I dig all the old sealer out and replace it with modern urethane caulk. It is very difficult to properly tool the sealant in the rails, especially in the forward sections of the rail that runs down the A pillar. I ground some custom tools that will hook inside the rail and spread the sealant well. If you do not get the joint of the rail and the roof completely sealed, it will start rusting very quickly.
After digging out a couple of rails, I am very impressed at what a good job the factory did at sealing the rail, especially the forward section, where it is a blind job. It is a shame the material was not as good as their workmanship!
Avoid using silicone, as it will not take paint like urethane does. Silicone is a superior sealant, but the inability to paint it, rules it out, as the inside of the rail is fully coated with sealant.

Regards, John McGraw

62Jeff

John,
Thank you very much for your detailed post.

Jeff

Dennis 613

If you are going to replace the driprails be sure to make a drawing of each side and mark the measurements along the driprail so when you reinstall them the rear fiberglass headliner support and the metal trim pieces line up with the side with the new driprails, if the rails are in too tight the fiberglass support and the metal headliner supports will stick out beyond the side of the driprails. Hpoe this helps Dennis

USMC 0802

It might have helped 7 years ago when he asked the original question...

Gary's '66

Dennis,

Just an FYI. ALWAYS look at the dates these threads were posted. As USMC 0802 pointed out this thread is over 7 years old. BTW, if it makes you feel any better you're not the first to have done this nor, I'm betting, will be the last as well.

Gary

a striper

I know a lot of people get flamed for missing the age of a thread but the added information can still be pertinent and beneficial to others searching/dealing with similar topics.

Revfan

Always pay attention to "a stripper"!

oh, I meant a striper

Anyway, I agree with the above!

a striper

A slight but substantial difference.

Dennis 613

Actually the information was intended for anyone who may have to replace their driprails, but from what you have said nobody will ever replace any ever again.

USMC 0802

I don't think I said anything of the sort.

Apparently my sarcasm-fu is too strong...No offense intended.