1960 dual 4 adjustment
02-11-2009, 06:08 PM
#2
Team Owner
Unfortunately there are no on-line instructions for these - I have a paper manual (shown in the lower right corner of this pic) that specifically covers the WCFB dual 4-bbls. You can buy one off eBay.
This site will give you some help:
http://members.capital.net/com/studiog/CarterWCFB/ but doesn't cover the whole gamut of adjustments. Basic float height/drop and accelerator pump settings are covered but that's about it.
I do have two very old manuals in PDF (one manual is for a Packard) that show many details and I can email them to you if you provide me an email address. They are BIG so it takes 5-6 email installments to get all of them.
This site will give you some help:
http://members.capital.net/com/studiog/CarterWCFB/ but doesn't cover the whole gamut of adjustments. Basic float height/drop and accelerator pump settings are covered but that's about it.
I do have two very old manuals in PDF (one manual is for a Packard) that show many details and I can email them to you if you provide me an email address. They are BIG so it takes 5-6 email installments to get all of them.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-11-2009 at 06:19 PM.
02-12-2009, 05:57 PM
#4
Team Owner
try this site , it's a member on heres site http://www.earlycorvettes.com/ look at 56/7 tune up guide
02-13-2009, 07:31 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: New Milford CT
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The 56/57 tune-up guide is good! Thanks. But on mine 2x4's (bone stock) they like Both idle speed screws in use to hold both front and rear carbs butterflies open a tad. Then go to the mixture screws and startiing at 1 1/2 turns out on all 4 of them, just fiddle with them from there. I have tried every possible combination of rear carb only, front carb only, etc, etc. and the above way works best for me. By the way, if the carbs are properly adjusted and jetted etc. the car is rocket! (well for a 283 anyway)
02-13-2009, 09:51 AM
#6
Team Owner
Bob Kunz (THE WCFB guru) told me personally to use the FRONT idle speed screw to just barely touch its stop and crack the throttle plate the minimum possible (this is just to keep the plate from ever sticking in the bore). Use the REAR idle speed screw to adjust the idle speed. Running either of these in too far will have you running off of the carb's transfer slots and then the mixture screws will be ineffective. Finally use a vacuum gauge to get 'lean, best idle' by tweaking all 4 idle mixture screws. They should never be cranked out more than 1 turn or something is prob wrong.
02-13-2009, 11:17 AM
#7
I have supposed original 2x4 setups where there is no base idle screw on the front carb. These cars ran fine and adjustment of the mixture screws was possible on both carbs.
On mine I have used a carb balancing tool like this to synchronize the base idle air rate for both carbs.
Then I adjust the mixture screws.
On mine I have used a carb balancing tool like this to synchronize the base idle air rate for both carbs.
Then I adjust the mixture screws.
02-13-2009, 06:44 PM
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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There are no vacuum source ports on WCFB's, and none on the 2x4 intake manifold either, to use a vacuum gauge to adjust the idle mixture screws. You can use a hollow carb stud like later C1's used, or get a #755 vacuum fitting from Paragon - it will replace the plug in the rear of the rear carb baseplate; just put a rubber cap on it, and remove the cap when you want to use the vacuum gauge. The Paragon fitting has a threaded removable nipple so you don't have to lift the carb up off the manifold for swing clearance to install the fitting - unscrew the nipple, install the hex fitting, then screw the nipple back into the fitting.
