Adjusting Leaf Spring Load??
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Adjusting Leaf Spring Load??
I am ready to reattach the leaf spring outer ends through the bolt on each side, but the bolts I have don't have the hole for the cotter pins so how do I know how much to tighten the bolt nut which is a compression type. Can someone measure their spring bolt end to nut or is there a way to do it by a torque foot lbs? I didn't know the bolts weren't stock or I would have measured the difference before I took the load off of the spring. Thanks!
#2
Drifting
I'm assuming from your description that you have aftermarket spring bolts that are threaded for several inches. How far you thread on the nut sets the rear ride height. Put the nut on so it's secure, several threads showing below the nut. When you get the car back down on its tires and have moved it around to settle the suspension, use the nuts to raise the ride height to where you want it. Unless it's already too high because it's a new spring. That seems to happen a lot.
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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The stock spring end link bolts measure exactly 5-5/8" from the underside of the bolt head to the flat side of the castle nut at the bottom with the cotter pin inserted in the hole. Start with that measurement and adjust from there as needed.
#4
Safety Car
I am ready to reattach the leaf spring outer ends through the bolt on each side, but the bolts I have don't have the hole for the cotter pins so how do I know how much to tighten the bolt nut which is a compression type. Can someone measure their spring bolt end to nut or is there a way to do it by a torque foot lbs? I didn't know the bolts weren't stock or I would have measured the difference before I took the load off of the spring. Thanks!
#5
If you are using a fiberglass spring, the bolts will be 1 to 3 inches longer than the stock steel spring bolts. You will adjust the bolts to get the ride height you want in the rear of the car. Most fiberglass spring springs come with the longer bolt and supply lock nuts for the adjustment.
Jeff
Jeff
#6
Burning Brakes
A pair of self locking nuts from the hardware store will NOT work fine!
I had that set up going 60 mph down the road when I lost a nut and the spring dropped to the pavement. I was very lucky that it only sharpened the end of the spring and didn't do more damage. I did have to change my shorts and it cost me a 50.00 towing fee home. It will work if you get the height you want and then drill a hole through the self locking nut and the bolt and then run a cotter key thought both! I never did find the nut!
I had that set up going 60 mph down the road when I lost a nut and the spring dropped to the pavement. I was very lucky that it only sharpened the end of the spring and didn't do more damage. I did have to change my shorts and it cost me a 50.00 towing fee home. It will work if you get the height you want and then drill a hole through the self locking nut and the bolt and then run a cotter key thought both! I never did find the nut!
Last edited by 64Corvette; 02-15-2009 at 12:42 PM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information on the height setup! This whole rear end setup is from VBP so the nut I assume will be ok. In hindsight I should has take the measurements for the height to tighten the nut on the bolt before I took it off.
#8
Burning Brakes
I also have the VSP mono spring going into my '66 and as mentioned, it did come with a longer bolt. Seeing that my car is still 85% in pieces, I can't give you a measurement but like everyone suggested, you use the nut to raise or lower your ride.
As far as hardware store hardware- specifically the nuts, locking nuts are OK but you may notice that they are about 40% thinner than a standard nut. The best deal for the VSP set up is to use a new nylon insert lock nut like the one they supply or if you can find them, the typical factory style with the clintched head, but back it up with a second nut. It could be a “lock nut”, a “locking nut” or a standard nut. Using two wrenches, tighten each nut against the other and it "should not" ever loosen, but that is not guaranteed. A friend's '34 Chevy with a Vette suspension has had the front horn/bumper nut fall off; the camber bolts and height adjusting nuts loosen often so they are checked routinely.
If you have the tools, putting the cross drilled hole with a pin is worth the work.
Good luck.
As far as hardware store hardware- specifically the nuts, locking nuts are OK but you may notice that they are about 40% thinner than a standard nut. The best deal for the VSP set up is to use a new nylon insert lock nut like the one they supply or if you can find them, the typical factory style with the clintched head, but back it up with a second nut. It could be a “lock nut”, a “locking nut” or a standard nut. Using two wrenches, tighten each nut against the other and it "should not" ever loosen, but that is not guaranteed. A friend's '34 Chevy with a Vette suspension has had the front horn/bumper nut fall off; the camber bolts and height adjusting nuts loosen often so they are checked routinely.
If you have the tools, putting the cross drilled hole with a pin is worth the work.
Good luck.