Kurt G.

Muncie countershaft hole seepage on my 65' vert. Can I safely move the tranny back just enough to get a finger in there and lay a glob of permatex on the countershaft hole without supporting the rear of the motor? Also, will I have issues bringing the eng & trans back together and getting the pilot bushing to line up ?? Should I drain the oil?? Thanks for any replies.

wmf62

you shouldn't have to slide it back more than an inch, just enough to get your finger between with a rag to clean the area around the end of the shaft.

suggest you get a couple of longer bolts and swap them out for the lower bolts so that you can limit the amount of distance the trans slides back. remove the top bolts and slide the trans back(i'm assuming that you've already taken the bolts of the rear support, you might not have to take the driveshaft out, depends how far you are able to slide the trans back on the yoke; otherwise, take the driveshaft out).

clean the area around the cluster shaft with lacquer thinner and then quickly smear a thick layer of Ultra Black RTV over the end of the shaft and about 1/2 around the shaft and then slide the trans back forward BEFORE the RTV begins to set. DO NOT let the RTV cure before sliding it back forward.

then just put everything back together and wait 24 hours before driving.
Bill

x0000rgw

Kurt,
If you are sure that it's the counter shaft, you need to start
thinking about a new case. I fought this problem for a year before
I finally gave up. The only thing that will fix it is a repair (bushing).
The case is bored out at the counter pin and a bushing is installed. I
chose to go with a SuperCase with a larger sealed front bearing for
the input shaft. My trans is a Muncie m20. You can do a search on
"Muncie SuperCase". A few places sell them. Kajun transmission is
one. The machine work for a bushing will cost almost as much as
a new case. If you are worried about matching numbers, then do
the bushing.

Ray

Kurt G.

Many Thanks for the quick repiles

landshark 454

If it is leaking, that case is worn. the shaft is an interferience fit in the front hole. Get it sleeved. That part of the case and countershaft and imput shaft sees very high side loading, except in high gear, where there is no side load.

muncieman

The silly putty fix is a waste of time. The real fix is the bushing and the better fix is the Super Case. If you have a numbers case, park it in the corner and if you sell the car later, give it to the new owner and let him take the hit to repair it.

The Super Case is light speed better than even a new stock case, thicker in the front, better material, cluster moved closer to the main shaft, most of the slop taken out of the counter gear and that bigger sealed front bearing.

No comparison

DZAUTO

All of the above info is good.
If the tranny is original, matching numbers to the car, there are several options. Pulling back the tranny and using a sealant on the front of the cluster gear shaft only masks the problem-----------------it does not fix it. As already mentioned, the front of the shaft is an interference fit. If it leaks, that means the hole has become enlarged, thus, allowing the cluster to move around and continuing to enlarge the front hole.
So, here are some options to consider.
1. Pull it, save it, and install another tranny.
2. Pull it and have the front hole repaired.
3. Pull it and have the cluster shaft holes bored out to the larger, 1in size that was in 66-74 Muncies. This of course will also require a 66-74 style input shaft/cluster gear if it is a wide ratio Muncie, but if it is a close ratio Muncie, you will only need a 66-74 style cluster gear.
The above are options for a numbers matching tranny. If it is not the original tranny, then the sky is the limit for a replacement.
By the way, I only use Larry Fischer of D and L Transmission http://www.dandltransmission.com/ for repairing the hole with a bushing or boring the case to accept the larger 1in shaft.

Tom Parsons