Too Slow '90

I am getting ready to do the rebuild in the FAQ but there is no mention of the gear lube. What type of gear lube is required when rebuilding a headlight motor?

Roy

obx2323

I just used regular but white lithium is suggested I believe, the more accomplised will chime in. What was in mine had turned to hard crud. Just replaced the gears and cleaned everything up and they ALMOST work synchronized, almost. It's a wonder they even worked period with what the grease had turned to. Adjusting is fun too, take you time and a couple of shots,

jerry

Too Slow '90

Thanks. I was searching the archives and noticed that white lithium grease seemed to be the most popular but some comments said that after a while it dries up too...just wondering if there is a new "latest and greatest" out. I also read a post about about noting the motor position etc.. before removal of the motor and bucket. The motor was laying in the nose when I bought the car so I am sure re-installation will be fun>

Roy

jim lockwood

I quit using the white grease because it does dry up after a while, negating the benefits of having grease at all.

In its place I now use wheel bearing grease and am a lot more pleased with its longevity.

Jim

obx2323

I like it when I think I'm wrong and am actually right.! Don't know about the motor. My understanding is it has an "override switch so that when it reaches it's open/closed point the power is auto/off. That motor slips right in and is held by a simple C type clip BTW.

Avispa

My car sat for 19 months with the motor out (will save that story for another day), but the guy who did most of my restoration work insisted on lubing all the little things like the door latches and locks with Lubriplate. Needless to say it turned almost into concrete. I emptied two cans of Liquid Wrench into those mechanisms to get them free. Never, never again!

Wheel bearing grease is a whole lot better. You might consider a synthetic because they're less susceptible to drying out/oxidation.

http://www.thebestoil.com/AMSOILSynt...s/default.aspx

NEVERL8

I rebuilt my headlight motors/buckets last year and I used marine grade wheel bearing grease. Nice stuff and it will never degrade. So far it has worked perfectly and I do not expect to have to touch them for another 20 years.

CWPASADENA

I found out more then 40 years ago when I first started rebuilding headlight motors that the white Lithium Grease definately will dry out. I used several different lube materials and finally setteled on black Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. This stuff is creamy smooth and will not dry out and it sticks to everthing. Stay away from the old style long fiber greases as they are very thick and stiff, especially when cold. There may also be some synthetic greases out there which would also do a fine job.

I just did the motors in my 65. Someone had done them just before I bought the car. The car had been sitting for the past five years while I got around to doing a complete mechanical rebuild on it. The big gear had been replaced and everything else was just fine except they had used white lithium grease and everything was all dried out and stuck together. They would hardly work at all. Now they work great and ALMOST go up and down in unision.

Even when the cars were new, the Headlight Motors did not go up and down in unision but they should be close. It should not take twice as long for one Headlight to open then the other. While your motors are out, be sure to check the headlight bucket pivots. Sometimes these get all bound up and no matter how good your motors are, one headlight may take a lot longer to operate then the other.

The micro switchs on the mounting inboard headlight pivot brackets are used only to turn the dash "Headlight" warning light on if the lights are not fully open and the headlights are on. They do not act as limit switches to turn the motors off when fully open or closed.

There is an internal bi-metal circuit braker in the motor itself to protect the windings from overheating. It is important to NOT keep leaning on the headlight up and down motor switch after both motors have either fully opened or closed. This is hard on the big pot metal gear and also the motor windings.

Lastly, be CAREFUL and use the correct lingth screw that attaches the flat strap bracket to the side of the motor housing. This screw is APX 1/4 in. long. Too long of a screw can thread right into the motor housing and into the field winding. In this case, you have a problem as the field windings are not easily repairable.

Good luck with your project.

Chris, CWPASADENA

eyedocs96

Dang. I just finished both of my motors and tested them. I used the white lithium grease. Now I wonder if I should go back and use different grease.

CWPASADENA

You either can fix it now or fix it later!

If you do not plan to keep the car for long, leave it alone, but if it is going to be a "keeper", eventually, you may have to replace the lube.

Chris, CWPASADENA

Too Slow '90

Thanks to everyone who replied. I picked up some marine grease and will give it a try. I will keep in mind about screw length etc..so I don't have to re-do it. Thanks again.

Roy