What weight oil should be used?327/300
06-07-2009, 11:28 AM
#21
Racer
2. Use a CI-4 rated oil. This is usually called oil for diesel engines. Don't use the usual "SM" or "SL" oil designed for gasoline engines. The oil manufacturers have reduced the amount of zinc (ZDDP) and other additives in "SL" or "SM" oil. This is because those additives can hurt catalytic converters and are not needed for modern roller lifter engines. CI-4 (diesel) still has the additives. Your car doesn't have roller lifters or a catalytic converter. But it does have flat tappets which want the additives.
I'm on Chevron Delo400 15W-40 diesel CI-4
06-07-2009, 01:37 PM
#22
Team Owner
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Forget the brand names and synthetic marketing hype - they're meaningless. Select the weight that works best for your cold-start driving conditions, and the only thing that really matters is the API service rating that's listed FIRST on the API "donut" on the container. If you want an adequate level of ZDDP anti-wear additive to protect your cam and lifters, you want a CI-4 or CJ-4 API service rating listed FIRST (see photo below). You do NOT want an oil that has "SM" as the first-listed service rating.
06-07-2009, 08:29 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
As per recommendations from the forum, I recently changed over to diesel rated oil, i.e., Castrol tection extra 15W-40 (CJ-4) and have experienced a significant rise in oil pressure. At 3000 rpms, it's reaching reaching oil pressures just shy of 60 psi. Before the change over, I routinely used Castrol 10w30 (non-diesel rated) with an oil pressure at the same rpm around 45 psi. What do you think?
06-07-2009, 08:59 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
As per recommendations from the forum, I recently changed over to diesel rated oil, i.e., Castrol tection extra 15W-40 (CJ-4) and have experienced a significant rise in oil pressure. At 3000 rpms, it's reaching reaching oil pressures just shy of 60 psi. Before the change over, I routinely used Castrol 10w30 (non-diesel rated) with an oil pressure at the same rpm around 45 psi. What do you think?
06-09-2009, 12:47 PM
#27
Forget the brand names and synthetic marketing hype - they're meaningless. Select the weight that works best for your cold-start driving conditions, and the only thing that really matters is the API service rating that's listed FIRST on the API "donut" on the container. If you want an adequate level of ZDDP anti-wear additive to protect your cam and lifters, you want a CI-4 or CJ-4 API service rating listed FIRST (see photo below). You do NOT want an oil that has "SM" as the first-listed service rating.
I came across this engine oil guide while doing some oil research.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en..._Oil_Guide.pdf
06-13-2009, 09:17 AM
#28
the right/wrong oils
Forget the brand names and synthetic marketing hype - they're meaningless. Select the weight that works best for your cold-start driving conditions, and the only thing that really matters is the API service rating that's listed FIRST on the API "donut" on the container. If you want an adequate level of ZDDP anti-wear additive to protect your cam and lifters, you want a CI-4 or CJ-4 API service rating listed FIRST (see photo below). You do NOT want an oil that has "SM" as the first-listed service rating.
06-13-2009, 11:51 AM
#29
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My engines are in that category, and I switched to CI-4 and CJ-4 oils a couple of years ago to maintain the anti-wear additive protection afforded by the pre-SM oils we used to buy.
If a cam lobe wipes, you pull the engine, tear it down, and start all over again - that's a lot of time and expense you can avoid.
06-13-2009, 12:39 PM
#30
oils
The key wear point is between the cam lobes and the face of the lifters; if the valvetrain (including the cam and valve springs) is all stock and the engine has miles on it, you may be safe in the long run with SM oils, but the reduction in anti-wear additives that became effective with the SM oils presents a risk - your call whether to accept it.
My engines are in that category, and I switched to CI-4 and CJ-4 oils a couple of years ago to maintain the anti-wear additive protection afforded by the pre-SM oils we used to buy.
If a cam lobe wipes, you pull the engine, tear it down, and start all over again - that's a lot of time and expense you can avoid.
My engines are in that category, and I switched to CI-4 and CJ-4 oils a couple of years ago to maintain the anti-wear additive protection afforded by the pre-SM oils we used to buy.
If a cam lobe wipes, you pull the engine, tear it down, and start all over again - that's a lot of time and expense you can avoid.
06-13-2009, 07:33 PM
#31
oil for 60
The key wear point is between the cam lobes and the face of the lifters; if the valvetrain (including the cam and valve springs) is all stock and the engine has miles on it, you may be safe in the long run with SM oils, but the reduction in anti-wear additives that became effective with the SM oils presents a risk - your call whether to accept it.
My engines are in that category, and I switched to CI-4 and CJ-4 oils a couple of years ago to maintain the anti-wear additive protection afforded by the pre-SM oils we used to buy.
If a cam lobe wipes, you pull the engine, tear it down, and start all over again - that's a lot of time and expense you can avoid.
My engines are in that category, and I switched to CI-4 and CJ-4 oils a couple of years ago to maintain the anti-wear additive protection afforded by the pre-SM oils we used to buy.
If a cam lobe wipes, you pull the engine, tear it down, and start all over again - that's a lot of time and expense you can avoid.
06-14-2009, 06:15 PM
#32
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06-15-2009, 07:54 AM
#33
The CI-4 and CJ-4 oils are diesel oils. Common brands are Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, etc., but the brand name doesn't matter - all that matters is that the first-listed API service classification on the API "donut" symbol is CI-4 or CJ-4. Wal-Mart has their own house brand, and it's just as good as the others - they're all certified to the same API standards. 15W40 is the most commonly available weight, and works just fine.
06-23-2016, 06:34 PM
#34
Intermediate
What weight oil should I use in 1963 SWC 327 ci/300 hp? It's an original engine never overhauled with 59,000 miles.Would a multi grade 10W30 be okay or just 30 weight? What about the synthetic oils that I use in my new cars are they okay in the older engines? After a lot of drive train and suspention work this is my first oil change since buying it.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
06-23-2016, 07:00 PM
#35
Race Director
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Been running diesel-spec Rotella for years in all my old flat tappet cars. Excellent stuff.
06-23-2016, 07:31 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
I've always been curious about this phrase, which I've seen in the Forum numerous times. Unless some other localized mechanical failure occurs first (lifter? rocker? valve spring? push rod?), how would a single lobe get wiped? If the problem is insufficient ZDDP in the oil, wouldn't the cam still wear fairly evenly, albeit excessively?
06-23-2016, 07:33 PM
#37
This is what I use
06-23-2016, 07:40 PM
#38
Yes, I use the filter adapter, only because the oil filter is much shorter. This makes a greater distance from the exhaust pipe and heat off the pipe.
06-23-2016, 07:57 PM
#40
It's still a flat tappet cam and lifters so zinc is required for anti wear properties.