One wire alternator conversion/ with a new location
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
One wire alternator conversion/ with a new location/went for a drive and OOPS
I am going to put a one wire mini alternator on my car and move the location to the lower left engine mounting.
http://www.ecae.com/alt-kits.html
I plan on using kit 2407 or 2415.
What do I need to do to hook up the one wire?
this will allow me to get rid of the mount on the ugly header bracket on the pass side which is a pain in the a$$ to work around on the already crowded side of the engine.
http://www.ecae.com/alt-kits.html
I plan on using kit 2407 or 2415.
What do I need to do to hook up the one wire?
this will allow me to get rid of the mount on the ugly header bracket on the pass side which is a pain in the a$$ to work around on the already crowded side of the engine.
Last edited by zim64; 11-15-2010 at 09:12 AM.
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Epsom Victoria
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A word of caution, I have a low mount alternator like the kit you are going with on my Jag. It used to vacuum up all the crud off the road which did nothing to add the the outstanding reliablity of my Lucas system. I replaced the Lucas with a Bosch but the main factor in getting the reliability of the charging system to normal was a crud shield in front of the alternator. It is just a piece of aluminum attached with a couple of screws to the bottom edge of the body, it extends to just under the alterator.
#4
Safety Car
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Location: North Carolina "life is good"
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Good luck! I'd like to see a picture of this when your done.
I would think that the engine compartment would look pretty clean just seeing the engine with the alt. mounted low. I guess no power steering for you?
I would think that the engine compartment would look pretty clean just seeing the engine with the alt. mounted low. I guess no power steering for you?
#5
Safety Car
larry
#6
Drifting
Thanks for the link. I really like those low mount out of sight systems
#7
Pro
I am going to put a one wire mini alternator on my car and move the location to the lower left engine mounting.
http://www.ecae.com/alt-kits.html
I plan on using kit 2407 or 2415.
What do I need to do to hook up the one wire?
this will allow me to get rid of the mount on the ugly header bracket on the pass side which is a pain in the a$$ to work around on the already crowded side of the engine.
http://www.ecae.com/alt-kits.html
I plan on using kit 2407 or 2415.
What do I need to do to hook up the one wire?
this will allow me to get rid of the mount on the ugly header bracket on the pass side which is a pain in the a$$ to work around on the already crowded side of the engine.
I wanted to do the same thing, but the low mount kit I purchased wouldn't clear the frame. Perhaps you will have better luck with the smaller alternator.
Good luck!
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I will wait until I get the engine back in the car, to make some measurements, but after looking at a couple race cars this weekend having this setup, it looks like it will all be behind the crossmember, but measurements will be taken.
thanks for the input guys.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
This does come with a wiring kit, but what to do with the old wires from volt. regulator, and alt. hookup?
I'm a idiot when it comes to wiring stuff.
Thanks, Dave
#10
Pro
Just disconnect it and combine it in the loom. It will be fine as long as it is protected from contacting other things. I attached a picture of mine (not a show car).
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
thanks Boss. So the radiator support mounted original volt. reg. has no use then?
#12
Pro
Correct. You don't have to get rid of it but I did. I don't know what year you have but if you left it and there were a warning light , it would be lit. I don't know if any corvette even had that! Your amp gauge is obviously useless now as well so there is no reason to keep the regulator. Mine is a 66 L79 and was right on the wheel well in that pic where the 3 holes are. I just unplugged everything and taped it up along the loom. I reused the 10 gauge positive from the original wiring and added a second 10 gauge right to the battery which I combined in the loom. Left all the connectors and plugs in case in the future I sell the car and someone wants to return it to original.
#13
Le Mans Master
None. I have a 1-wire on my '64 and all that stuff is still in place. I just connected the existing red batt wire to the alternator, connected the old ground wire to a bolt in the case (even though it is grounded through the engine), cut off the plug with the field/lights wires, and tucked these back into the loom. Nothing else is changed.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Beautiful, thanks guys
#15
Drifting
i hate to be the naysayer, but i don't think any of those kits will work (MAYBE the 2407 kit just MIGHT???).
the problem is the alternater brackets WILL hit the tab on the frame that mounts the lower control arm shaft.
it can be done. i had to modify both brackets severly to get the upper alt mount to move all the way up to where that freeze plug is and tuck the alternator mount in right aginst the block. with all this done the lower part of the bracket just barely clears the mount.
those kits are kinda expensive, i bought a chrome bracket like 2410 from speedway or fleebay for about $30 and a chrome 1 wire from summit for $112.
the problem is the alternater brackets WILL hit the tab on the frame that mounts the lower control arm shaft.
it can be done. i had to modify both brackets severly to get the upper alt mount to move all the way up to where that freeze plug is and tuck the alternator mount in right aginst the block. with all this done the lower part of the bracket just barely clears the mount.
those kits are kinda expensive, i bought a chrome bracket like 2410 from speedway or fleebay for about $30 and a chrome 1 wire from summit for $112.
Last edited by mechron; 06-10-2009 at 12:17 AM.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Mechron, do you have a link to the brackets?
I was wondering about piecing together my own kit, even making my own bracket.
I'm a retard on electronics, so I don't know what amps I need, or if I can even use different types of alternators. I see the mini in one of the kits I was looking at is a Mitsubishi type. What should I be looking for as far as output (I have 37amp now) and is wiring a big headache to figure out to make an off the shelf unit work for my needs?
I was wondering about piecing together my own kit, even making my own bracket.
I'm a retard on electronics, so I don't know what amps I need, or if I can even use different types of alternators. I see the mini in one of the kits I was looking at is a Mitsubishi type. What should I be looking for as far as output (I have 37amp now) and is wiring a big headache to figure out to make an off the shelf unit work for my needs?
#17
Drifting
zim64, it would be hard to explain so i talked to astrodokk tonight and he will come over and get some pics of the modified brackets tomorrow or the next day and i will post links to the unmodified bracket and describe the mods with pics...
PS: the wiring is really simple, with a 1 wire GM alternator mounted low you just run one wire through some nylon clamps on the oil pan bolts from the B+ terminal on the alt to the big terminal on the solenoid the +battery cable bolts to to tie it into the battery, you can do it (heck, even a monkey can do it...HAHA)
PS: the wiring is really simple, with a 1 wire GM alternator mounted low you just run one wire through some nylon clamps on the oil pan bolts from the B+ terminal on the alt to the big terminal on the solenoid the +battery cable bolts to to tie it into the battery, you can do it (heck, even a monkey can do it...HAHA)
Last edited by mechron; 06-11-2009 at 01:14 AM.
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
OK, I might get it then.....
I'll check your pics when you get em up.
I'll check your pics when you get em up.
#19
Drifting
hi, be patient, dokk came over and took pics today and will post in a little while. we took pics of the alternator on the engine then we pulled the brackets and laid them out on the floor for you to see.