Astrodokk

I drove for an hour and a half each way to the Blue Angels show today and I had to hold on to the stick so it wouldn't rattle. I prefer to drive with both hands, and when I had to, since I was driving at about 3500 rpm on some curves, that stick was too much noise! Holding it for a long time is also bad, since I couldn't feel my hand after letting it go after 15 minutes.
What can I do to stop it?
Drive slowly.
Rebuild Muncie shifter.
Replace with Hurst shifter.
Buy a Tremec 5 speed.
Sell car.

Kerrmudgeon

Gee that brings back memories, I used to carry a towel and wrap it around the stick. Took it out rebuilt and tightened it, put it back in....still rattled, only not as loud. Short stick Hurst for 25yrs, no problems. The original is still kickin' around here someplace, as a doorstop.
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knight37128

Get rid of the mufflers.

Then you will not be able to hear it rattle.

Astrodokk

I don't have mufflers, I have Hooker sidepipes, and I could still hear and feel the rattle. I think it's Hurst time. I heard they have adapters for the Muncie chrome ball, right? Wanna keep it looking sort of stock!
Next project, coming up! That rattle was too much for me today. Gotta get rid of it once and for all.

65 vette dude

Unscrew the ball and remove reverse lockout lever and coat the spring and everything else that might possible rattle with silicone spray. Wait about a hour, then come back and coat everything with wheel bearing grease,and don't be cheap with the grease. Did mine months ago, and it's still quiet.

wmf62

i used to take my shoe off and hang it on the Muncie shifter of my 65...

i liked the way the Muncie shifter shifted so easily, but i use a Hurst on my 62..
Bill

mechron

year ,

66BlkBB

I could be wrong here but I was told early on that you shouldn't hold the stick while driving. I was told it puts pressure on the arm and that transfers to the syncro's causing them to wear and fail. When I first got my car I couldn't stand the rattle or the sloppiness of the Muncie linkage so I went to a Hurst Comp Plus right away. I just stuck the original shifter on the shelf. If the next guy wants to put it back in, he can do it.

62Jeff

Here you go, the buzz, and the wear questions both answered
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1556538956-post11.html

Kerrmudgeon

Most of the corvette supply companies sell an original look, bolt on stick for the Hurst for about 90$, to maintain the original appearance.
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Vet65te

Carlos, pull the reverse lockout T-Handle and look inside to see if you still have the plastic bushings in place. Here's what they look like.

The problem I've had is that these aftermarket replacements are too thick to be used. I've tried to use a Dremel Tool with a barrel sandroll in order to thin them out a bit but it's difficult to accomplish.
With the stock plastic bushings in place and a healthy application of white lithium grease and that add-on rubber O-Ring placed down over the shaft 'before' you put back the T-Handle (so the T-Handle actually rests on the rubber O-ring instead of metal to metal contact) , that should cure most of the rattling you're hearing.
Mike T.

magicv8

thanks for the memories

After installing factory rebuild kits on 2 factory shifters that rattled and
left me in 2 gears at the same time, I installed an old Hurst. That was
about 12 years ago, and I haven't heard a rattle or been under my car
(in the street) to pry the shift levers into neutral in all that time.

PS my trans rebuilder tells me that driving around with your hand resting on the shifter wll probably wear the synchro collar mechanism out sooner.

LPlum

Years back I think it was the Vette or Corvette Fever magazine. Had read an article about moving the shifter off the transmission and onto the frame. I beleive this is like the 1967 model year vette did this as well. Might be something worth a search on this forum.
Lowell

Astrodokk

Mike, I'll see about those bushings first since that would be the least expensive way to go for now. Those Hursts are pricey and the adapter is up there too. Well, I certainly don't want to wear the synchros out so I'll have to hear that infernal rattling until I get this squared away!
Mechron, 1965, or didn't you know that already, sheesh!
If i go to a Hurst later, the model for my car would be the Comp Plus, right? Just in case.

Plasticman

Yes, Comp Plus.

Vet65te

Carlos, if you find the old bushings in there, clean 'em and grease 'em. If they are MIA, then get ready to sand down the aftermarket ones since they seem to be too thick and I've bought them from more than one vendor. They are probably only made by one company anyway.
Never returned them because they were like a lot of my purchases, made long before I needed them so they sat on a shelf till I got around to trying them out.
Timing is everything...I just sold the Hurst Comp Plus from my '65 through the Forum Parts Section so I could install a stock Muncie Shifter just two months ago.
I do think the bushings plus grease plus that rubber o-ring under the reverse lockout will make a noticeable difference.
Mike T.

62Jeff

Mike I bought new bushings for my 65 from Long Island Corvette about 3 years ago. The two bushings were the proper thickness to fit, although each bushing was too tall to be used as a pair without cutting one of them down a bit.

Bluestripe67

Hurst Comp Plus....the one and only has been in my '67 for 21-22 years and the old orig. is on the shelf. If you get one, the short straight stick looks and works the best I think. Dennis

Allcoupedup

Light pressure with hand on the shifter while driving causes the forks to push up against the shift slider and wear out.



My '65 has the later frame mounted shifter and there is no vibration at all. If the simple fixes mention do not fix it, you can convert from tailshaft housing mount to frame mount.

Brian

StrayDog

sugestion, replace with Hurst competion plus linkage & look a like handle resolves problem............ worked for my 66 BB