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Replacing Strut Rod Bushings

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Old 10-17-2009, 04:35 PM
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67*427
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Default Replacing Strut Rod Bushings

I did a search but don't see the answer to this question; I pulled my strut rods today to replace the rear end and the bushings were bad. No surprise there since the last time they were replaced was about 25 years ago!

I pressed the old ones out and was surprised to find there was no metal sleeve on the outside of the bushings. The bore where the bushing was is about 1.177. Do original rods not use the sleeved bushings and will the sleeved bushings just press into the bore where the old rubber bushing came out? Anybody know what the O.D. is of the outer sleeve on the bushings?

The ZIP catalog says there are two different sized bushings... 1-1/4 and 1-3/8. Obviously these rods aren't either of those. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them. If the bushings are really 1-1/4 or 1-3/8, looks like new rods are in my future.



Thanks in advance for the help,

Steve

Last edited by 67*427; 10-17-2009 at 05:02 PM.
Old 10-17-2009, 05:48 PM
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63Corvette
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These are WORTHLESS!!! Use only the adjustable (clevis) type strut rods with heim-jointed ends unless your car is a show car or trailer queen. A jounce will turn the camber cam within the bushing on stock type strut rods. All the Corvette service industry providers sell them.
Old 10-17-2009, 07:21 PM
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66since71
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The original bushings did not have the outer sleeve. The replacement bushings had them to facilitate installation. Years ago, one of the tricks in pure stock class autocrossing was to run the replacement bushings, as they were a little less compliant than the stock bushings.

Take a close look, too. You may have left the sleeves in the strut rod, and just pressed out the rubber!

Harry

Last edited by 66since71; 10-17-2009 at 07:25 PM.
Old 10-17-2009, 08:07 PM
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Hi Harry,

Thanks for the reply. I thought just maybe you could be right about leaving the sleeve in place but I just went out and examined all four ends, both sides, and there is NO evidence of a sleeve. In fact, there is a taper that goes all the way to the I.D. with no break at all. I examined all 8 surfaces. Then I figured since I am probably looking at replacing them, I couldn't hurt them so I set one end up in the the press with a socket that was about 1.235 O.D. and pressed again... to the point the 12 ton press was getting scary. I then took a die cutter and slit where one of the sleeves would have been. Then I tried to peel it with a chisel. Nothing! The surface of the I.D. appears to be EXACTLY like the taper on the outside edge. There is no perceptible "break" on any of them.

I don't remember where I got these strut rods but one of them still had a tag wrapped around it (unreadable) that looked like how GM would have labeled it. I used to buy a lot of parts from my local dealer so I SUSPECT that's where I got them but I don't know for sure. I wonder if GM ever sold any replacement parts that had an ID smaller than 1.250.

If I end up replacing these, the general opinion seems to be that rubber is a better choice for street cruising but the only adjustable ones I can find use poly. I really don't see the need to go to full Heim joints... these lasted pretty well and the camber adjustment was right where it was set about 25 years ago!

Any thoughts on replacements?

Thanks again,

Steve
Old 10-18-2009, 08:58 AM
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BADBIRDCAGE
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Steve:

I'm on my second car with the VBP adjustable rear strut rods. They are really a great improvement over stock equipment and once your alignment shop gets acquainted with them they will love you for it.

Rich
Old 10-18-2009, 09:57 AM
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67*427
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Rich;

I agree on the adjustable ones. That's what I'll most likely go with. Are you using the ones with poly ends or Heim joint?

I sure wish someone made the adjustable rods with the stock rubber bushing. Wonder why no one does.. at least if they do, I haven't found them.

Thanks!
Steve
Old 10-18-2009, 10:45 AM
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Steve: I used the poly bushings on both cars. Have been very satisfied.

Rich
Old 10-18-2009, 11:10 AM
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Thanks Rich,

Any problems with the lock nuts loosening?

Steve
Old 10-18-2009, 11:21 AM
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I have had VBP twist adjust poly bushing struts in my car for 10-12 years and the nuts only come loose when I put a wrench on them.
Old 10-18-2009, 12:51 PM
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Thanks Magic, that's what I wanted to hear!

Steve
Old 10-18-2009, 12:58 PM
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I have used original and replacement stock rods with rubber bushings without any problems in many street cars. As long as the rest of the IRS and diff side yokes are in spec there's nothing wrong with them. Not saying the others are bad just another opinion.
Old 10-18-2009, 01:06 PM
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I've always used the stock, rubber lined rods but I figured since I have to replace these, I might as well get a little more capability in terms of camber adjustment. It seems to me (but it's been a L O N G time ago) that the last alignment guy couldn't quite get there (with all new bushings, etc.) and had to compromise a bit. If somebody made the adjustable ones with rubber, I'd be on 'em like a duck on a June bug!

Wonder why they don't? Maybe they know something I don't.

Thanks again,

Steve
Old 10-21-2009, 11:55 AM
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Remember you can insert the bushings in hot water before pressing them in. Lots easier this way. Don't ask how I know.
Rick
Old 10-21-2009, 01:35 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion... I won't ask how you know.<grin> I don't have to do it (this time) because I ordered new adjustable rods with the bushings already in them.

Thanks for the reply,

Steve

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