Muncie Shifter & Install
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Muncie Shifter & Install
I Have a '65 with a '63 Muncie trans #3831701 and stock shifter. I want to put in a Hurst short stick shifter part # 3917960. Will this shifter work with the '63 trans? It is supposed to fit 63-67 Muncies.
Thanks All
Thanks All
#2
Drifting
hi JT, as i recall the 63 muncie had a smaller mainshaft than the later muncies, but that was an internal difference. all muncies should be the same externally, so the same shifter fits all muncies. by the way, you will love the difference between the stock shifter and the hurst...
Last edited by mechron; 12-11-2009 at 03:55 PM. Reason: sp
#4
Melting Slicks
1963 Munice Tranny
Hello
I think your transmission you have might appeal to a guy restoring a 63 Vette. Because 63 started with a Borg Warner and ended with a munice its kinda a desireable tranny to have if you are looking for a correct 63 tranny.
Good luck
I think your transmission you have might appeal to a guy restoring a 63 Vette. Because 63 started with a Borg Warner and ended with a munice its kinda a desireable tranny to have if you are looking for a correct 63 tranny.
Good luck
#7
Drifting
as for Dokk, i think he posted about this a while back but if not here is a full update.
1- oil pan slamed down on the 101 freeway at about 90MPH in a construction zone (trying to keep with a C4... and beat a ferrari...)
2- he heard the slam but didn't glue one eye to the OP gauge. the pan slamming into the pavement knocked pickup out of the oil pump (even though i had tach welded it to the pump...). loss of oil pressure spun #1 rod bearing, the furthest one downstream from the oil pump.
3- Dokk was bummed at first, but realized it was no biggie, he was already planning more engine mods this winter. also car mods, koni shocks, big mack daddy sway bars, new suspension stops, lakewood scattershield, fidanza aluminum flywheel AND A T FITTING WHERE THE OIL PRESSURE LINE GOES so we can install an idiot light sender and an idiot light in the car!!
4- Dokk is becoming a pretty fast R&R guy, he spent about 4-5 hours taking the engine compartment apart down the the short block about 3 weeks ago. he came over last friday to borrow my cherrypicker. on sat i went over and the engine got pulled in an hour as usual......Way to go DOKK...i keep telling you if you don't beat the SNOT/CRAP/ **** out of your car it wont break. Dokks standard answer is "but that's what i bought it for!!!" me---, but i,m OK with that, Dokk finally realizes if you race them you need to fix them.
5- the short block is going back to selby's machine shop tomorrow. i/we know the crank needs turning, maybe a couple of rod big ends reconditioned. selby's is an A1 shop, whatever he says goes.
6-Dokk replaced his muncie shifter with a used hurst competetion plus he found on craigs list in september, he was extatic at the difference, thus my post. i installed lots of hursts back in the day, i never had a customer who didn't absolutely love the hurst (not the cheap one, i would not install one of those, only the competition plus)
7- Dokk has really become a hard core old corvette guy. i think when he bought the vette he had no idea what he was getting into. old vettes are a hobby and a way of life. Carlos very quickly learned this. when he first brought the 65 over and i inspected it was a solid car, but a car that needed a lot of work.
DOKK, no offence, but you took me for a test drive and you thought you had a FAST car.... i wasn't impressed, it was not fast. it was a solid but a neglected car. that smogger 350 pulled pretty well, but it was only an average low 14 second car.
8- Dokk built a clone of my 383 stroker engine. with no tuning since the first fire up (yes, i know how to build static engines and tune them before the first fire up). that is how you build drag racing engines.
Dokk went from the low 14s and broke into 13.98.
after the build as a noob (no offence Dokk), he ran mid 12s. that is insane. now he is buying parts to run 11.999.
i have talked with Dokk about these parts, but it is a secret, new cams, new mods, as a drag racer
we can't give up any secrets. that's the way it is.
DOKK, tell all the C2 owners what a mid 12 pass feels like in a C2.
#8
Team Owner
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#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Just purchased the Hurst shifter. Has anyone done an installation that can give me instructions on installing the Hurst shifter. I heard it is a tight fit. Engine and tranny are in the car and I will be removing the stock "rattle" shifter. Thanks
#10
Drifting
PS, DOKK is pulling his hurst and muncie now, but he will post in a bit...
Last edited by mechron; 12-12-2009 at 08:04 PM.
#12
Burning Brakes
Larry,
You asked about install, but I'm removing mine to be able to look over the tranny with Ron while the engine is out. But installing would be just the reverse of what the photos show.
Yellow are the two bolts that hold the shifter onto the bracket (which is not the Muncie bracket. You must use the Hurst bracket). The bolts should be already in the holes when you lift the Hurst shifter up into place, otherwise you won't be able to get them in due to the side of the tunnel. Disregard the opposite arrows. Also, use washers so that the bolt doesn't bottom out on the tranny side and you think it's tight but it's not. One of mine was a little too long so I shimmed some.
Teal shows the linkage which must also be bolted to the shift levers (red shows a bolt).
This shows the bracket after the shifter is out. Yellow is where the shifter bolted on. BTW, the two bolts are different sizes. The larger is on top.
The teal shows the three bolts that hold the bracket onto the tranny.
This is the tranny out of the car and shows the bracket a little better.
I wish I had taken pictures of the Muncie shifter removal, but tearing things out is easy...it's putting things back together that takes time. The job is a little tedious in as much as you'll have to finger screw the two yellow bolts in by hand until they bite, then use an open end wrench a few mm's at a time! I closed my eyes and snoozed some while doing the work. Can't see what I'm doing anyway so why not?
Good luck with this and I think you'll do fine. Just be patient.
You asked about install, but I'm removing mine to be able to look over the tranny with Ron while the engine is out. But installing would be just the reverse of what the photos show.
Yellow are the two bolts that hold the shifter onto the bracket (which is not the Muncie bracket. You must use the Hurst bracket). The bolts should be already in the holes when you lift the Hurst shifter up into place, otherwise you won't be able to get them in due to the side of the tunnel. Disregard the opposite arrows. Also, use washers so that the bolt doesn't bottom out on the tranny side and you think it's tight but it's not. One of mine was a little too long so I shimmed some.
Teal shows the linkage which must also be bolted to the shift levers (red shows a bolt).
This shows the bracket after the shifter is out. Yellow is where the shifter bolted on. BTW, the two bolts are different sizes. The larger is on top.
The teal shows the three bolts that hold the bracket onto the tranny.
This is the tranny out of the car and shows the bracket a little better.
I wish I had taken pictures of the Muncie shifter removal, but tearing things out is easy...it's putting things back together that takes time. The job is a little tedious in as much as you'll have to finger screw the two yellow bolts in by hand until they bite, then use an open end wrench a few mm's at a time! I closed my eyes and snoozed some while doing the work. Can't see what I'm doing anyway so why not?
Good luck with this and I think you'll do fine. Just be patient.
Last edited by Astrodokk; 12-13-2009 at 01:28 AM.
#14
Racer