vt65

it has come to my attention that oil companies have stopped putting zinc additive in our engine oils, Zinc is a lubricant and is required for older engines, i understand that Shell Rotella still has zinc and an oil additive called EOS is also good, does anyone else have any additional oils to add to the list? I have an expensive stroker engine in my car and don't want to ruin it, any information related to this quiry would be appreciated

67*427

Look at the second sticky above... it's a list of flat tappet oils...

Steve

SupremeDeluxe

This has probably been the most extensively discussed topic on this forum and possibly on the NCRS board. Beware the sticky above, there is some information contained within that I do not consider accurate.

I am not a chemist or an lubriction engineer, but I am a practicing mechanical engineer and deal extensively with tribological issues in my daily work.

If you really want to read more than you probably thought possible on the topic, you may want to join the forums here:

bobistheoilguy.com

Donald #31176

CI-4 or CJ-4 oils are okay for stock valve train. If you have a valve train with gorilla valve springs perhaps you should consult the cam mgrs. tech line for their suggestion.

vt65

thanks for your info everyone, i have a set of world sportsman c.i. heads with their stock valve springs should have noticed the sticky but glad I didn't because there seems to be conflicting messages here

Plasticman

That happens a lot........................

mrruffhouser

I believe that the research work done that is posted on the second sticky above speaks for itself. If you value lab reports test results check it out. Decide what is realistic for yourself. I you don't or wish to use what you have been using for 20+ years, keep using whatever.
Be happy.

vt65

well i'm a retired oil refinery worker and i have seen first hand what happens if the wrong oil is used under harsh conditions. 35 years ago when our new refinery was started up we were tearing bearings out of our pumps and turbines at an alarming rate, after a major fire on a pump it was finally determined that the bearing and seal failure was as a result of using the wrong oil, we switched to Mobile 1 synthetic oil $1200. a bbl and our problems disappeared and bearing failure was significantly reduced. Made a believer out of me! However, now im told that Synthetic oil is not what i should be using in my stroker engine because of the lower zinc and phosphate mandated by API,. So this is my quandry and i appreciate all input.

stratplus

Is there any advantage other than NCRS to keep the clutch godzilla spring?

With a 327 and a Ceneterforce clutch wouldn't I find it easier to push the clutch pedal in if I used a screen door spring? As long as the spring was strong enough to return the pedal back to the rubber stop I would think this would be a better set up.

I have everything apart now so this would be the time to do it.

MikeM

I think the train just jumped the tracks.

Mike Ward

That's cause it's MLK day.

JohnZ

Nope. There's no need for that huge spring and over-center arrangement with a diaphragm clutch; as long as you have a return spring that will hold the pedal up against the bumper, that's all you need. Just use a simple setup like the midyears have - photo below.

stratplus

Oh ya, a major derailment. Not sure how I got here, will repost.

stratplus

Thanks john.

I reposted this in the right area and then I saw your answer to my original post.

Kensmith

I use the Shell Rotella T non-synthetic in my 383 stroker. It was highly recommended by T&L engine builders who built the motor. 450tq, 450hp.

65 vette dude

I have noticed that since Shell changed their Rotella formula to CJ-4, they have stopped advertising ZDDP numbers. I was surfing the truckers sites the other night and found a trucker who had the new Rotella T tested by a lab,twice, and both times Z came in at approx. 1050ppm, and P came in at 950ppm. I believe 1200 is the accepted minimum for flat tappet cams. However, supposedly Shell has added boron to help make up for the lower ZDDP numbers, and I assume that the boron is the final ingredient in their new "triple action wear protection" advertisement, and that it doesn't clog converters.

vt65

what grade do you use, mine has SAE40 in it right now

Kensmith

15-40

sweet66

one can also purchase regular 10-30 low zinc oli and add a container of ZDDP Plus supplement about $10 or so .. this will add enough extra chemicals to bring 'new' formula oil up to 'old' formula standards

mikem350

Esp in Canada...you are using straight 40??? Perhaps you should read the threads about plugging the oil filter bypass...