59 - lower inner control arm shafts - different seals
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59 - lower inner control arm shafts - different seals
Found a pair of new lower inner control arm shafts stored for many years. Would like to use them, but unsure if it's ok, as they don't look equal (see picture). Can anybody tell me about the different seals and marks?
Other question: As on the picture, weld-on repair bushings are present at the upper inner shaft location. How to remove the stuck shaft with less damage? Would appreciate Your help! Thanks! Al
Other question: As on the picture, weld-on repair bushings are present at the upper inner shaft location. How to remove the stuck shaft with less damage? Would appreciate Your help! Thanks! Al
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Tom Parsons wrote a very good article on this or the NCRS forum. Pictures and everything.
John
John
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Those bushings for the Upper-Inner shaft in your picture are NOT, repeat, NOT weld in repair bushings. Those are the ORIGINAL factory bushings which are installed with factory spot welds.
Either Paragon or Corvette Central (I have already forgotten who has them) sells a replacement of the upper-inner bushings, as seen below.
The spot welds of the old bushings must be CAREFULLY drilled out, then the hole in the spring tower is trimmed PER THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW BUSHINGS, then welded in place!!!
Now, question number first. Why do you think the bushings in the spring tower need replacing? It appears to me that the upper-inner shaft is tight in the bushing. If so, you are in luck. NEW, replacement upper-inner shafts (NOT stock shafts) are about .008 OVERSIZE, thus, when replacing an original upper-inner shaft with a new replacement, it screws in VERY, VERY tight. It is supposed to be VERY, VERY tight, because once installed, the shaft is NOT supposed to turn in the spring tower. The bushings (BIG NUTS) which screw into each side of the upper A-frame are only supposed to turn on the shaft!
Here is a link for the rebuilding of a front cross member and suspension that I put together several months ago. If you do not have, then break down and buy a copy of the ST12 (53-62 Corvette Servicing Guide), and/or a copy of a 49-54 Passenger car manual (they have the same front cross member/suspension).
Oh ya, by the way, the Upper-Inner shaft ONLY comes out from the front and goes back in from the front of the spring tower. The reason is because the hole in the front bushing is BIGGER than the hole in the rear bushing. Thus, the threads on the shaft are also bigger on ONE end. The same is true with the replacement bushings for the spring tower-----------------IF YOU REPLACE THEM, MAKE DARN SURE YOU PUT THE BUSHING WITH THE SMALL HOLE IN THE REAR AND THE BUSHING WITH THE BIG HOLE IN THE FRONT OF THE SPRING TOWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/218134/
Whoops, sorry, I forgot to mention the different sizes of seals for the Lower-Inner shaft. The width of those seals is TOTALLY dependant on the supplier of the shaft. Personally, I prefer the wider seal because it offers more protection from moisture and debris getting into the shaft threads. BUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, the wider seal is a little (but not much) more difficult to get into place. If you have a choice, go with the shaft with the wider seal and put up with the little extra grief of getting it in position.
Tom Parsons
Either Paragon or Corvette Central (I have already forgotten who has them) sells a replacement of the upper-inner bushings, as seen below.
The spot welds of the old bushings must be CAREFULLY drilled out, then the hole in the spring tower is trimmed PER THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW BUSHINGS, then welded in place!!!
Now, question number first. Why do you think the bushings in the spring tower need replacing? It appears to me that the upper-inner shaft is tight in the bushing. If so, you are in luck. NEW, replacement upper-inner shafts (NOT stock shafts) are about .008 OVERSIZE, thus, when replacing an original upper-inner shaft with a new replacement, it screws in VERY, VERY tight. It is supposed to be VERY, VERY tight, because once installed, the shaft is NOT supposed to turn in the spring tower. The bushings (BIG NUTS) which screw into each side of the upper A-frame are only supposed to turn on the shaft!
Here is a link for the rebuilding of a front cross member and suspension that I put together several months ago. If you do not have, then break down and buy a copy of the ST12 (53-62 Corvette Servicing Guide), and/or a copy of a 49-54 Passenger car manual (they have the same front cross member/suspension).
Oh ya, by the way, the Upper-Inner shaft ONLY comes out from the front and goes back in from the front of the spring tower. The reason is because the hole in the front bushing is BIGGER than the hole in the rear bushing. Thus, the threads on the shaft are also bigger on ONE end. The same is true with the replacement bushings for the spring tower-----------------IF YOU REPLACE THEM, MAKE DARN SURE YOU PUT THE BUSHING WITH THE SMALL HOLE IN THE REAR AND THE BUSHING WITH THE BIG HOLE IN THE FRONT OF THE SPRING TOWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/218134/
Whoops, sorry, I forgot to mention the different sizes of seals for the Lower-Inner shaft. The width of those seals is TOTALLY dependant on the supplier of the shaft. Personally, I prefer the wider seal because it offers more protection from moisture and debris getting into the shaft threads. BUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, the wider seal is a little (but not much) more difficult to get into place. If you have a choice, go with the shaft with the wider seal and put up with the little extra grief of getting it in position.
Tom Parsons
Last edited by DZAUTO; 02-09-2010 at 11:39 PM.
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Thanks to John for the hint and especially to Tom himself! This was not the first time, Your profound information and advice was a great help to me. Just let me say, that people like You are invaluable for keeping such a forum precious! Al
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I have found that if you are an absolute nut about restoration perfection, REGARDLESS of how impractical it may be, such as head bolt markings, sealant or paint runs on a well detailed chassis, an off center hole, finish on a wire harness clip, etc, etc, etc, then go to the NCRS forum.
But, if you want information about what works, what doesn't work, how to accomplish maintenance/repairs, extract a little more power from your engine rather than have bone stock torque/power levels, or, replacing rearend gears and ending up with a STOCK appearance, then this is the place for such information.
I visit both forums----------------------but I gain MUCH MORE useable and practical information from CF.
Tom Parsons
But, if you want information about what works, what doesn't work, how to accomplish maintenance/repairs, extract a little more power from your engine rather than have bone stock torque/power levels, or, replacing rearend gears and ending up with a STOCK appearance, then this is the place for such information.
I visit both forums----------------------but I gain MUCH MORE useable and practical information from CF.
Tom Parsons
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