AZDoug

The colors referenced apply to a C1.

You can install this right between the existing headlight connectors under the front panel of the car, without cutting any wiring if you buy some male and female spade connectors.

You can zip tie the relays and extra wire to the metal support rods under the front panel and nobody will see a thing to tell if you car is modified

You want Bosch 30 amp NO relays and matching sockets that already have wire ends installed. I used a double socket to keep things cleaner.

If you want to save a few bucks, you can just use two relays, and input the signal from the LH headlight factory harness,and double wire out from the relays to connect to both headlight sets. The RH main harness connector is then left unused

Doug

Frankie the Fink

There are generic Radio Shack 12V relays #275-226 that do the same thing. I mounted mine just below the windshield washer tank and tied into the horn relay main buss for the 12V to the headlights...didn't cut any original wiring and its undetectable unless you do a head stand over the driver's fender. The circuit should include a 20-amp fuse though on the headlight feed as this modification bypasses the 'thermal cutout' integrated into the headlight switch for over-current protection.

Bluestripe67

Is a version of this available for the C-2 cars? I freely admit, I'm electrically challanged, but can follow diagrams. Dennis

x0000rgw

Why are pins 85 and 86 reversed on the layout. On the high beam,
85 is ground. On the low beam 86 is ground. It may not matter
since this is a mechanical relay. I think it wound matter on an
electronic relay.
Ray

wow

Someone posted a C2 version somewhere on the forum...can't seem to find it either...if you're out there, could you repost please? Thanks, Nick

AZDoug

Just look at the factory wiring diagram and substitute whatever color wires they have for low beam and high bean for what is on the one one I posted.

The Bosch relays don't care how the coil wires are hooked up.


Doug

alexandervdr

Hi Frankie, sorry for popping this old post up but it helps me out. You say you tap the 12V from the relay horn, is that from where all the red wires come together (picture from a 63 below that I found on the web, mine is a 64)? If so , is it normal these screws are fully in the open ready for a short to happen?

rtruman

HHR-56 HALOGEN HEADLIGHT RELIEF RELAY

HR-56 HALOGEN HEADLIGHT RELIEF RELAY YOU MUST HAVE THIS WITH HIGH INTENSITY HALOGEN HEADLIGHTS!
The relief relay removes the high amp load created by "aftermarket" type halogen bulbs from the head light switch. The load is then placed on this high amp relay protecting the switch from premature failure. This product is normally not needed on vehicles with halogen or incandescent bulbs drawing less than 15 amps. Installation is as simple as plugging in the wiring connectors. All color codes and connectors match RON FRANCIS WIRING kits. (Note: Order HR-58 if you have DUAL Headlights)
ere is the version for the C2

AZDoug

I obviously am not FTF, but rather that use the horn relay as power source, I put a power distribution terminal strip up behind where the battery goes on a C1, and I ran a (fused) 8ga wire to the front headlights from there.

That power distribution strip provides power for the EFI, fuel pump, etc, also.

And yes, exposed screws like that could be an issue. Since it is obviously not an NCRS car, i would shield those.

Doug

alexandervdr

no, you are not FTF but your answer is equally helpful Thanks
My headlight motors/housings have dual end point contact&relays so they power off by themselves when reaching the open or close position. I route the relays to the tan headlamp wire such that when putting the lights on/off the housings rotate too. No need for the headlight motor switch then leaving extra room to install my Vintage Air cooling nozzle more to the left.

plaidside

This is the kit I sell in my store which I retail for $11.95. It comes complete with relay, switch, fuse holder and socket.
Joe
http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/bwd/#/ve.../HP6770?type=s

toddalin

Yes.

When I did this conversion in my '64, I put the relays inside the voltage regulator housing (stealthly), because I use a 1-wire alternator.

Also, the provided diagram shows a ground to the frame, and I think it should be to the core support. I ran a ground from my alternator to the core support and used 8-gauge wire to the relays.

Frankie the Fink

The C2 voltage regulators sense load at the horn relay buss to determine the alternator charging rate. I hook all major accessories there. Mad Electric's web site has several technical papers on the topic. Not absolutely necessary but this makes for a clean install and prob shortens wire runs too.

It wouldn't hurt to shield the horn relay buss screws but I've never heard of any issues if you don't.