Steve59

Here are the particulars.

1964 283 stock 4 barrel engine with a stock single point distributor. Engine has run well over the last few years.

The plug wires are in their proper orientation as is the distributor, rotor and cap.

I've spent some time installing the distributor, rotor and plug wires in their proper orientation. Disconnected the vac advance and fired up the engine. It ran like crap but it did run. I set the dwell at 30 degrees and checked the timing, which was well AFTER tdc, so I rotated the distributor counter clock wise and this is where the problem is....the vac advance can hits one of the intake runners when the timing is exactly at tdc. I can't adjust the timing to before tdc because of this interference. I think my rotor is off by one tooth, the question is: which way do I rotate the rotor? I think the rotor should be rotated back (counter clockwise) one tooth. Is that correct?

JohnZ

You're looking to move the distributor housing (and vacuum advance can) further clockwise to get the can away from the intake runner, and the rotor tip needs to follow the distributor rotation, so the rotor (mainshaft) needs to move clockwise.

Moving the mainshaft one tooth will move the distributor housing 28*; if that puts the advance can into the plug wire support, you'll need to pull the distributor and move the drive gear 180* - that will move the distributor housing 14*.

MikeM

No more needs to be said on this one.

midyearvette

once again it needs to be stated just how great this forum is for everyone....i wish i had it 50 years ago when i tackled my first sb chevy re build and got frustrated with the dizzy install....the technology is sooo simple once you figure it out, and frustration turns to a pleasant achievement after you know what youre' doin'......jmho....

jdk971

i called midyear today about this. good timing. i am confused. i thought
moving the distributor counter clockwise advances the timing. jim aka always confused.

MikeM

Sounds like you're still confused. Counter clockwise on the distributor advances the timing.

rongold

Moving the distributor housing counter clockwise advances the timing. Moving the rotor counter clockwise retards the timing. You need to lift the distributor until the gears unmesh, turn the rotor clockwise until the gears mesh again, and then just bump the starter until the distributor falls back in---or you could pull the distributor, turn the oil pump slightly clockwise and try to drop the distributor back in with the rotor 1 tooth further clockwise. A lot of guys are afraid to bump the starter with the distributor not engaged with the oil pump---they think it will jump time, but nothing will happen. When it goes around enough and lines up with the oil pump, it will simply drop in place.


RON

jdk971

thanks ron. jim

midyearvette

jimmy....counter clock wise advances the timing if you are moving the housing....did you get it fixed??...if not , call me and i will move my schedule around tomorrow to come over and fix that puppy up......

Frankie the Fink

Exactly how I do it...never had a problem and beats breaking your back leaning over the fender probing around with a long screw driver in the distrib hole trying to get the oil pump slot lined up!!

jdk971

frank go make big bucks so WE can spend those big bucks. i will get it
tomorrow. thanks jim

no problem no problem no problem no problem no problem..............

street62

Turn the distributor against rotation to advance.

Steve59

Thanks John. I'll try walking the rotor/main shaft clockwise one tooth. I've gotten pretty good at "walking the rotor" and getting it to align with the oil pump. Really don't want to pull the entire distributor to rotate the drive gear 180 degrees if I don't have to. Is that something that is simple and can be done at "home" or will I need to take it to a machine shop?

rongold

If you're mechanically inclined, it's a simple job. All you need is a hammer and a correctly sized punch and a solid surface to support the tail of the gear. Drive the roll pin out, spin the gear, and reinstall the pin. It's easy if you've done it before, a little scary if it's your first time, but there's ONLY 1 first time--After that it's simple.

Black_Magic

George

toddalin

I had to rotate mine 180 degrees simply because I installed an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold.

Seems that the #8 runner on the stock 300 hp manifold sits much lower and is indented for the distributor, as the Corvette manifolds are and this is right where the nipple aligned. One tooth the other way and it hits the shroud supports.

MikeM

Classic example of why you take the gear off and rotate it 180*.

Steve59

[QUOTE=rongold;1573912413]If you're mechanically inclined, it's a simple job. All you need is a hammer and a correctly sized punch and a solid surface to support the tail of the gear. Drive the roll pin out, spin the gear, and reinstall the pin. It's easy if you've done it before, a little scary if it's your first time, but there's ONLY 1 first time--After that it's simple.

Thanks, Ron. Doesn't appear too complicated. But I think, since this was a passenger car engine and when it was built no one had to worry about ignition shielding or shielding supports, I may have a pretty good chance of having to rotate that gear. We'll see this weekend.

Donald #31176

You will need a 1/4 " flat punch to drive the pin out. At the same time you might shim the end drive gear to about .010" as well as clean and lube the weights and pivot points.

Steve59

Houston, we have lift off.

Rotated the rotor one tooth clockwise, had enough room between the intake runner and the shielding bracket to set the timing to about 10* tdc. Dwell is at 30*. Didn't have to rotate the gear 180*. Life is good.

I do have one other problem before this old war horse returns to the road. I'm dumping a lot of gas into the crank case. I've started another thread asking for advice on this problem.

Thanks to all who helped me with this timing issue.