Question about this 327 motor and what I should expect from it.
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Question about this 327 motor and what I should expect from it.
I hang out on the C5 side of the forum as I own a 97' Corvette. I just picked up a 46' International Harvester truck to Rat Rod / Hot Rod with my kids. Today, I came across someone selling a 327. I've been keeping my eyes open for a motor and trans to have ready when I build the new frame. I went over and put a deposit down and will pick up the motor on Monday. The guy had 2 C2's. One was a split window. Both were unreal. He pulled this motor out of the split window and had it rebuilt. Then decided to go Big Block Stroker. So he is selling me this motor. I was kinda looking for a 350/350 setup. Or a Ford 289/302 & C4 setup.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine
This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine
This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.
#2
Le Mans Master
I hang out on the C5 side of the forum as I own a 97' Corvette. I just picked up a 46' International Harvester truck to Rat Rod / Hot Rod with my kids. Today, I came across someone selling a 327. I've been keeping my eyes open for a motor and trans to have ready when I build the new frame. I went over and put a deposit down and will pick up the motor on Monday. The guy had 2 C2's. One was a split window. Both were unreal. He pulled this motor out of the split window and had it rebuilt. Then decided to go Big Block Stroker. So he is selling me this motor. I was kinda looking for a 350/350 setup. Or a Ford 289/302 & C4 setup.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine
This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.
Not knowing much about the 327 and what it's all about, can you guys tell me if I did good or made a mistake. And what auto transmission should I look for.
Here is the info the guy had posted about the motor.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rebuilt 63 Corvette 327 Engine
This engine came out of a 1963 Corvette Split Window I recently bought. I’m putting a stoker motor in the ’63 so this is for sale. Block was bored to .060” over with new TRW pop up pistons with molly rings, double roller riming chain turns a new Crane Fireball cam with advertised duration of 286°. Block also has new cam bearings and freeze plugs. Crank was turned to .020”-.020” with new Clevite rod and main bearings – new high volume oil pump with hypo intermediate shaft. Heads are angle plug Fuely Double hump with stainless 2.02” intakes and 1.60” exvalves. Heads are street ported (reworked bowls and gasket matched). Heads have screw in studs with CompCam guide plates with Hypo 3/8” pushrods. Heads just redone with new guide bushings, perfect circle seals and perfect 3 angle valve job with LTI springs. Valve covers are genuine Corvette highly polished. Intake is Offenhauser 360° equa-flow manifold that is gasket matched to heads. Included is a junk QuadraJet carb that’s been sitting in a box for 25 years. I would recommend a new Edlebrock (manifold is for AFB, QuadraJet type carbs – Hollys don’t fit). The factory Hypo Rams Horn exhaust manifolds with 2-1/2 outlets are also available for extra money; flywheel also available. Engine built by El Mirage 200 MPH and Bonneville 200 MPH Club member with 40 years of race engine building experience.
#5
Pro
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Straight plug heads could also be plugged, drilled and tapped as angle plugs.
DT
Last edited by NOM61; 06-20-2010 at 07:29 AM.
#6
Team Owner
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Use any 3,4 or 5 speed transmission that will bolt up. Call Crane and ask what stall converter to use with whatever rear gear you decide on.
Can't tell if you made a mistake until you fire it up and see how it runs. Don't know what you paid for it and most importantly, you don't say what YOU expect out of it.
As far as pulling the truck, those old Internationals are very heavy but if geared right, the engine shouldn't have any problem. Not a tire smoker for sure.
#7
54 Vette Rod
Sounds like a great motor to me. You can sell of the valve covers for a little $ if you want. Don't know if you bought the ram horns but you will have plenty of choices for headers.
I would mate it up to a late model 700r4 tranny. You will have the low gearing to pull it out of the hole as well as the overdrive to cruise the highway.
Good luck and post pics of the truck and motor when you can.
I would mate it up to a late model 700r4 tranny. You will have the low gearing to pull it out of the hole as well as the overdrive to cruise the highway.
Good luck and post pics of the truck and motor when you can.
#8
Cartoon Character
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The 327 can rev to super high rpm without blowing up and will make reasonable power for your app. You did not make a mistake. One word of advice - avoid an Edlebrock carb at all costs. They have the floats on the sides and not fore and aft and will starve on tight turns, Change the manifold to a Victor Jr Edlebrock and use a 750 Holley carb. With those heads and headers it will flow nicely and rev to the moon.. I use a larger carb than that on my car with a 327 and it runs perfectly..
Enjoy
Enjoy
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I know the guy through a dealership I bought my Dodge Ram through. He worked in the service dept. He is about the biggest gear head I have ever met. Most of what he was telling me about the motor was floating right over my head.
He wasn't sure about the intake manifold on this motor other than people like em' but he's never used one and he only uses holley carbs. He said with the pistons used and these heads, compression should be around 10 to 10.5 Said it should rev to 7K without worry.
He said power wise, it should be somewhere in the 300 hp to 325 hp. He said it was bolted to a 4 speed manual but if I wanted an auto, then go with the 700R with the overdrive. He also offered to help me get it all setup and fire it up for the first time if I wanted the help. When I go over to pick up the motor, I will take some pics of the C2s he has. He does have the Ram Horns. Should I use them? Are they good? Seems like long tubes would be better. What about the angled plugs? Good/bad. Problems with headers?
Is this the right spot to post these questions or is there a better spot?
Distributor? Should I use an electric fuel pump? He has a block off plate and said if I don't, I need to get a rod or tube or something?????
He wasn't sure about the intake manifold on this motor other than people like em' but he's never used one and he only uses holley carbs. He said with the pistons used and these heads, compression should be around 10 to 10.5 Said it should rev to 7K without worry.
He said power wise, it should be somewhere in the 300 hp to 325 hp. He said it was bolted to a 4 speed manual but if I wanted an auto, then go with the 700R with the overdrive. He also offered to help me get it all setup and fire it up for the first time if I wanted the help. When I go over to pick up the motor, I will take some pics of the C2s he has. He does have the Ram Horns. Should I use them? Are they good? Seems like long tubes would be better. What about the angled plugs? Good/bad. Problems with headers?
Is this the right spot to post these questions or is there a better spot?
Distributor? Should I use an electric fuel pump? He has a block off plate and said if I don't, I need to get a rod or tube or something?????
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Also, I'm not sure how this works. A 327 bored .60 over........ what does this make it? Does the cu in only go up when you run a stroker crank?
Also, is this the same block as a 350? How much more power does a 350 put out? That is what I was hunting for when I found this one. I'm hoping that with 4:10 in the rear, the 700R4 transmission, it will run well. Quick off the line and be able to hop on the freeway and cruise 75 -85 without problem.
Yes, these old trucks are heavy but I'm not using it all. I'm building a new frame with independent front suspension and disc brakes on all 4 corners. It's a long bed and has a long wheel base. I'm guessing that the back wheels won't have a lot of weight on them and they are gonna want to spin ; )
Also, is this the same block as a 350? How much more power does a 350 put out? That is what I was hunting for when I found this one. I'm hoping that with 4:10 in the rear, the 700R4 transmission, it will run well. Quick off the line and be able to hop on the freeway and cruise 75 -85 without problem.
Yes, these old trucks are heavy but I'm not using it all. I'm building a new frame with independent front suspension and disc brakes on all 4 corners. It's a long bed and has a long wheel base. I'm guessing that the back wheels won't have a lot of weight on them and they are gonna want to spin ; )
Last edited by IRON MAIDEN; 06-20-2010 at 12:07 PM.
#11
Racer
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what rear is in your harvester?
i have a 65 vette with a 327 and a 79 scout II with the 345 ih motor.. you may want to check your rear on the harvester and think about going with at least 3.0- 4.0 first gear on your tranny as you will need first a lot in the mud,sand and snow.. if your rear is a 3.36 on the IH the 700r4 is not a bad call as first gear is 3.06.. the scout are heavy and really need a good first to get moving when off road
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i have a 65 vette with a 327 and a 79 scout II with the 345 ih motor.. you may want to check your rear on the harvester and think about going with at least 3.0- 4.0 first gear on your tranny as you will need first a lot in the mud,sand and snow.. if your rear is a 3.36 on the IH the 700r4 is not a bad call as first gear is 3.06.. the scout are heavy and really need a good first to get moving when off road
#13
a 700R auto transmission would be a good choice--it is what a lot of people recommend, for folks that want to replace the 2 speed powerglide trans on a C2. I'm told you end up with roughly the same gear ratios as a 4 speed Muncie in a C2.
#14
54 Vette Rod
Stop worrying. Sounds like a fantastic motor for your rod. It will have plenty of power. I would skip the ram horns, you have enough room to put in any header system you want.
#15
Race Director
That cam may be too much for that motor, unless you are wanting to run in the 4000-7000 RPM powerband all the time. Ditto with a Vic jr intake on that small motor.
What is your running/driving/usage application?
Street/grocery getting/driving to work? Get an Edelbrock performer manifold, a Holley 6210 spreadbore carb and a much milder cam, hydraulic roller, something in the 270* advertised, somewhere in the 214-218 at .050" lift range, but find out what compression ratio the motor has, first, as that also will dictate cam choices. 10:1 should be OK with the cam I mentioned, 10.5, you may want more duration to avoid detonation.
If you want some more zip and a non roller cam, look at an L-46 or L-79 cam (about 222* duration at .050" lift, nice and streetable in a lighter vehicle.
Edit: That 286* advertised isn't that much larger than the L-79 cam, which has 278/284 advertised duration, but in my mind, it is too large for your application, if that truck weighs more than 3500 pounds.
I recall lots of cars that were absolute pigs because the owner put too much cam and too much manifold on and the performance was terrible until 4000 RPM or so.
Doug
What is your running/driving/usage application?
Street/grocery getting/driving to work? Get an Edelbrock performer manifold, a Holley 6210 spreadbore carb and a much milder cam, hydraulic roller, something in the 270* advertised, somewhere in the 214-218 at .050" lift range, but find out what compression ratio the motor has, first, as that also will dictate cam choices. 10:1 should be OK with the cam I mentioned, 10.5, you may want more duration to avoid detonation.
If you want some more zip and a non roller cam, look at an L-46 or L-79 cam (about 222* duration at .050" lift, nice and streetable in a lighter vehicle.
Edit: That 286* advertised isn't that much larger than the L-79 cam, which has 278/284 advertised duration, but in my mind, it is too large for your application, if that truck weighs more than 3500 pounds.
I recall lots of cars that were absolute pigs because the owner put too much cam and too much manifold on and the performance was terrible until 4000 RPM or so.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 06-20-2010 at 02:36 PM.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That cam may be too much for that motor, unless you are wanting to run in the 4000-7000 RPM powerband all the time. Ditto with a Vic jr intake on that small motor.
What is your running/driving/usage application?
Street/grocery getting/driving to work? Get an Edelbrock performer manifold, a Holley 6210 spreadbore carb and a much milder cam, hydraulic roller, something in the 270* advertised, somewhere in the 214-218 at .050" lift range, but find out what compression ratio the motor has, first, as that also will dictate cam choices. 10:1 should be OK with the cam I mentioned, 10.5, you may want more duration to avoid detonation.
If you want some more zip and a non roller cam, look at an L-46 or L-79 cam (about 222* duration at .050" lift, nice and streetable in a lighter vehicle.
Edit: That 286* advertised isn't that much larger than the L-79 cam, which has 278/284 advertised duration, but in my mind, it is too large for your application, if that truck weighs more than 3500 pounds.
I recall lots of cars that were absolute pigs because the owner put too much cam and too much manifold on and the performance was terrible until 4000 RPM or so.
Doug
What is your running/driving/usage application?
Street/grocery getting/driving to work? Get an Edelbrock performer manifold, a Holley 6210 spreadbore carb and a much milder cam, hydraulic roller, something in the 270* advertised, somewhere in the 214-218 at .050" lift range, but find out what compression ratio the motor has, first, as that also will dictate cam choices. 10:1 should be OK with the cam I mentioned, 10.5, you may want more duration to avoid detonation.
If you want some more zip and a non roller cam, look at an L-46 or L-79 cam (about 222* duration at .050" lift, nice and streetable in a lighter vehicle.
Edit: That 286* advertised isn't that much larger than the L-79 cam, which has 278/284 advertised duration, but in my mind, it is too large for your application, if that truck weighs more than 3500 pounds.
I recall lots of cars that were absolute pigs because the owner put too much cam and too much manifold on and the performance was terrible until 4000 RPM or so.
Doug
Are you saying that the cam that's in there now, the Crane Fireball, will give me no power off the line?
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Sorry. I just don't know much about cams. Obviously ; )
I would like it to sound like a heads & cam motor. I don't want it to struggle to idle and have issues creeping through a parking lot. I'm not ecpecting it to be as fast as my C5, not that the C5 is that fast. I don't spin the tires. In fact, the C5 has never broke rubber in the 8 months I've owned it. I drive it hard at times, but just don't slam it off the line.
It's also a 6 speed manual. With an auto, I may slam it off the line more often. What I want is healthy power when I need it.
Not sure why the guy would install a cam in it that needs to be reved to 4K before it makes any power. Although it was gonna be hooked up to a 4 speed manual.
Is the cam an easy swap on these motors? Anything else I would need to do while changing a cam? springs?
I would like it to sound like a heads & cam motor. I don't want it to struggle to idle and have issues creeping through a parking lot. I'm not ecpecting it to be as fast as my C5, not that the C5 is that fast. I don't spin the tires. In fact, the C5 has never broke rubber in the 8 months I've owned it. I drive it hard at times, but just don't slam it off the line.
It's also a 6 speed manual. With an auto, I may slam it off the line more often. What I want is healthy power when I need it.
Not sure why the guy would install a cam in it that needs to be reved to 4K before it makes any power. Although it was gonna be hooked up to a 4 speed manual.
Is the cam an easy swap on these motors? Anything else I would need to do while changing a cam? springs?
#18
Team Owner
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That cam may have trouble idling against a stock stall speed 700r converter. I don't know. Don't know anything about those transmissions.
I used one of those cams a long time ago but it was with a four speed in a truck. No problem.
#19
Race Director
Call Crane and find out what the duration is at .050", lift,and lobe separation and intake closing angle,and i can give you much better answer.
A quick google search suggests the duration at .050" may be less than what I am figuring (I estimate 224-226 at .050), if it is 220 or less, I don't see a problem.
I ran a 327 with that same Holley, an L-46 cam, long tube headers, and dual plane manifold in my '61 for years, with the close ratio Muncie and 4.56 gears, it was a screamer, but It liked to be run at 2500-3000 RPM in cruise,and higher (up to 6800 RPM).
It wasn't as much fun,and a bit more work getting going, when running 3.55 gears,a s it was happiest over 2500 RPM. The 3.55 gears liked the wide ratio muncie I had in it previously. This is a 3000 pound car.
Now I can tell you that in that same 327 motor that was in my Corvette, it is getting a Comp XR264HR cam (look up the specs), Edelbrock RPM airgap,and 6210 in my '37 Ford pickup project, with a 200-4R trans and 3.5 rear end, and 29" tall tires. For street, daily driver use.
The 700-4R has a lower first gear than the 200, which works in your favor if you use a longer duration cam.
A quick google search suggests the duration at .050" may be less than what I am figuring (I estimate 224-226 at .050), if it is 220 or less, I don't see a problem.
I ran a 327 with that same Holley, an L-46 cam, long tube headers, and dual plane manifold in my '61 for years, with the close ratio Muncie and 4.56 gears, it was a screamer, but It liked to be run at 2500-3000 RPM in cruise,and higher (up to 6800 RPM).
It wasn't as much fun,and a bit more work getting going, when running 3.55 gears,a s it was happiest over 2500 RPM. The 3.55 gears liked the wide ratio muncie I had in it previously. This is a 3000 pound car.
Now I can tell you that in that same 327 motor that was in my Corvette, it is getting a Comp XR264HR cam (look up the specs), Edelbrock RPM airgap,and 6210 in my '37 Ford pickup project, with a 200-4R trans and 3.5 rear end, and 29" tall tires. For street, daily driver use.
The 700-4R has a lower first gear than the 200, which works in your favor if you use a longer duration cam.
#20
Race Director
If this is what you have, it should be fine, IMO. The long advertised duration is pretty much meaningless in this case.
Doug
286 Fireball
286/292 Adv. Dur.
213/220 @ .050"
.434"/.450" Lift
110 LSA/106 ICL
Doug
286 Fireball
286/292 Adv. Dur.
213/220 @ .050"
.434"/.450" Lift
110 LSA/106 ICL