Removing Rear Rotor Rivets
07-05-2010, 03:23 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Removing Rear Rotor Rivets
Well, I finally got around this morning to removing the rear brake rotor rivets on one side of my '66 convertible. I had to send in the passenger's side spindle and bearing carrier for a rebuild to Van Steel last year when it began locking up, and thought I'd better look at the driver's side as well. The passenger side rotor had been previously removed, although the half shaft U-joints appeared to be original. Both were replaced, along with the strut rod bushings when the bearings were replaced, but this left me wondering about the driver's side.
A quick look found the rotor still riveted to the spindle, so I'm sure the driver's side hasn't been touched since she rolled out of the plant in St. Lou. But, I've been putting off doing it for a while, not really wanting to start trying to drill out the rivets and send it off. Turns out, like many jobs, much easier than I was making it out to be, from start to finish about 30 minutes total, including pulling and reinstalling the wheel. Here's a little summary and help for anybody interested in tackling the job on their own, not difficult at all.
The first pic is after the wheel has been removed, and the rivet heads are being drilled. You need to center punch the rivet head to keep the drill bit from drifting, try to get as close to the center of the head as you can. Should your initial punch mark be a little off, you can always "drift" the mark toward the center by holding the center punch at an angle and re-striking the punch. This will actually move the punch mark toward the direction the punch is pointing. Try it, more than once if necessary.
This pic shows one of the rivet heads after being drilled off. Once the rivet heads have been center punched to your satisfaction, I recommend starting with a 1/8" or so drill bit and progressively moving larger in size by 1/32" increments or so until the hole has been drilled to the proper size to separate the head from the shaft of the rivet. I found that the last and largest bit required in my case was 11/32" in diameter. Most of the heads were drilled off and snagged on the 11/32" bit when the proper depth was reached. The rivet head is only about 3/32" thick, so it's only required for the bit to reach about 1/8" depth at its center in order to separate the head from the shaft.
This picture shows the method for removal of a couple of the rivet heads that weren't totally separated from the shaft when the drill reached the proper depth. They were only "hanging by a thread" so to speak at one side, due either to needing just a little more drill depth, or due to the drill being slightly off-center. But, a pin punch and a light rap was enough to separate the remaining couple of rivet heads.
Finally, the last picture shows all of the rivet heads removed, and all that's required is for the caliper to be pulled and the rivet shafts to be driven from the spindle flange, at a later date. I'll finish this part when I decide to remove the spindle and carrier for their trip to Van Steel to be rebuilt. That'll be soon, I'm looking for the peace of mind that two new rear wheel bearings and new half shaft joints will give me. Should be able to take those long trips then with no reservations.
I've got no idea how many miles may be on the car, the odometer has shown 11,235 since I put in the cluster, and I never bothered to fix it since everything else works. I'd suspect it's getting towards or over 100,000 miles or so, however. The bearings and U-joints are the originals, as the General installed at the plant. I've gone back with the non-greasable Spicers, heck if they last that long there's no reason for me to attempt to better the life with a grease gun.
Hope this could be of help to any of you guys who might be considering the same or a similar project.
Save The Wave!!
A quick look found the rotor still riveted to the spindle, so I'm sure the driver's side hasn't been touched since she rolled out of the plant in St. Lou. But, I've been putting off doing it for a while, not really wanting to start trying to drill out the rivets and send it off. Turns out, like many jobs, much easier than I was making it out to be, from start to finish about 30 minutes total, including pulling and reinstalling the wheel. Here's a little summary and help for anybody interested in tackling the job on their own, not difficult at all.
The first pic is after the wheel has been removed, and the rivet heads are being drilled. You need to center punch the rivet head to keep the drill bit from drifting, try to get as close to the center of the head as you can. Should your initial punch mark be a little off, you can always "drift" the mark toward the center by holding the center punch at an angle and re-striking the punch. This will actually move the punch mark toward the direction the punch is pointing. Try it, more than once if necessary.
This pic shows one of the rivet heads after being drilled off. Once the rivet heads have been center punched to your satisfaction, I recommend starting with a 1/8" or so drill bit and progressively moving larger in size by 1/32" increments or so until the hole has been drilled to the proper size to separate the head from the shaft of the rivet. I found that the last and largest bit required in my case was 11/32" in diameter. Most of the heads were drilled off and snagged on the 11/32" bit when the proper depth was reached. The rivet head is only about 3/32" thick, so it's only required for the bit to reach about 1/8" depth at its center in order to separate the head from the shaft.
This picture shows the method for removal of a couple of the rivet heads that weren't totally separated from the shaft when the drill reached the proper depth. They were only "hanging by a thread" so to speak at one side, due either to needing just a little more drill depth, or due to the drill being slightly off-center. But, a pin punch and a light rap was enough to separate the remaining couple of rivet heads.
Finally, the last picture shows all of the rivet heads removed, and all that's required is for the caliper to be pulled and the rivet shafts to be driven from the spindle flange, at a later date. I'll finish this part when I decide to remove the spindle and carrier for their trip to Van Steel to be rebuilt. That'll be soon, I'm looking for the peace of mind that two new rear wheel bearings and new half shaft joints will give me. Should be able to take those long trips then with no reservations.
I've got no idea how many miles may be on the car, the odometer has shown 11,235 since I put in the cluster, and I never bothered to fix it since everything else works. I'd suspect it's getting towards or over 100,000 miles or so, however. The bearings and U-joints are the originals, as the General installed at the plant. I've gone back with the non-greasable Spicers, heck if they last that long there's no reason for me to attempt to better the life with a grease gun.
Hope this could be of help to any of you guys who might be considering the same or a similar project.
Save The Wave!!
11-22-2010, 03:22 PM
#2
Ron,
Thanks for the write up. I'm in need of a working parking brake and your information has inspired me to take a closer look at doing it myself. Do you think you will replace the rivets when the job is complete?
Ben
Thanks for the write up. I'm in need of a working parking brake and your information has inspired me to take a closer look at doing it myself. Do you think you will replace the rivets when the job is complete?
Ben
