brownacc

I tried to put one on my 1960 today and had trouble. Mr. Gasket brand.
The large round rubber gasket between the bypass and conversion spin on adapter was the issue.
Have any of you tried one lately ?
I put one on my 64 about 10 years ago without issues.
Thought the rubber ring fit inside the block around the bypass ? but could not get it in there. tried everyway but it just rolled out.
Finally put it up in the block and then tighten the bypass up to it and then the adapter.
It was pinched some and I'am just not sure if thats right ?

Anyone had this issue or did I miss something ???

I have not started the engine yet.
I did put the flat gasket between the bypass and block up top before anyone ask.

66jack

Which part number you using?
Try #1272?
jack

Frankie the Fink

This is what I used (see pic) and a little bit of chassis lube will hold the rubber piece in until everything is fastened up tight.

Steve59

Frank:

Where did you get that conversion kit?
Thanks
Steve

By the way, installed that power antenna that you did, works great. Biggest problem was running the extra wires and insuring a good ground on everything.

66jack

Check you local parts store, Its a Mr. Gasket product.

jack

midyearvette

the gasket goes around the by pass as you know....remove the by pass with the two 1/4" bolts and install the o ring around the by pass...re install as a unit .....simple....

Frankie the Fink

To make a long story short Steve...my oil canister blew out (lost 4-1/2 qts of oil) on a busy Orlando highway and I walked across the street to Advance Auto and got the conversion kit on the spot and my buddy at Jiffy Lube right next store let me use his rack to install it. Works great and never a single problem. You can use the NAPA Gold 1060 oil filter with the adapter (its really black and matches the old canister) or switch to the NAPA 1794 truck filter with a 2 qt capacity (its all white unfortunately) which is what I run...holds as much oil as the old canister.

brownacc

This is what I did but the rubber gasket is just slightly larger than the block and wont slide in.

Kerrmudgeon

It's probably not centered exactly. I'd take it back and get another to try. Probably made in China. aaaggghhhh!

63split63

Try leaving the 2 bolts a little loose and then install the outer rubber seal. Snug up the 2 bolts last .

brownacc

Thanks guys , I've tried it all and finally have creased the rubber gasket.
I even tried another bypass and it just wont go. Looks like the rubber is just a bit oversized. I'll buy a new one later and hope it will work.

Steve59

Thanks Frank. I bought one years ago (can't remember the manufacturer) and while I was getting an oil change, I asked the mechanic to install the converter that I bought. He tried but said it wouldn't fit, so I gave up and ran with the stock filter. I was thinking that I'd try it again.

Frankie the Fink

There is nothing wrong with the original canister and many prefer it. You just have to take some extra care when installing it and make sure the rubber gasket is seated properly (and that the old one is completely removed!). However, the spin on filters don't ask too much of my poor eyesight and mechanical skills which is increasingly important any more...

Steve59

I find when the car is on jack stands and you are working on your back, the spin on is easier and less sloppy to remove. Since I'm still trying to track down my gas in the crank case problem, and working on my 3rd filter removal, I wanted to go to cheaper/easier for awhile.

Steve59

Ok, got one of those adapters and trial fit it on the 283 block in the basement. I removed the bypass and low and behold there were 'two" old gaskets around it, (must have leaked in its prior life). In any event, I have a few simple questions since no instructions came with the part.

1. Is the large round gasket that comes with the adapter to be used in lieu of the gaskets that come with the original filters, is it placed in the same grove?

2. Is it actually necessary to remove the bypass or can you just swap out the shorter bolts for the longer ones and replace the gasket? (assuming that the gasket will keep the valve in place while you change the bolts)

3.How do you keep the center fitting (the one that the screw on filter screws on to) from moving?

4. There was a very small tube of something, is this a lube or locktite?

Thanks

Frankie the Fink

If you have the Mr. Gasket product like my PDF attachment in post #3 above that document has instructions...which I believe deal with all of your questions. IIRC this was a three-hands job where you had to hold all the loose parts together while snugging up the two long bolts and then everything was fine. Pretty sure the small tube is LokTite. This article shows the conversion on a '57 283 truck engine: http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...kit/index.html

If you have gas in your crankcase you may well have a hole in your fuel pump diaphragm...even a pin hole can cause this problem...

Steve59

Frank:

I thought it was a 3 hands job also. But when I was practicing on the block, it seemed much easier if you just dug out the older canister gasket, put in the new Mr Gasket gasket (which keeps the bypass in place) and then swapped out the short for the long bolts when bolting on the adapter.

Small tube is the LokTite. Thanks, didn't want to use that to lube the gaskets. Assume that will hold the center fitting in place.

As to the leak, I'll be picking up the AFB first week in August. The guy who looked at it, tested it on an engine, said it needed minor tweeking, but doesn't think it was enough to cause the plug fouling or the gas in the pan problem. He suggested maybe a fuel tank problem. Once I know I have a good carb, the next will be the pump.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if all things are good to go (timing, new plugs, points, etc) on the car and the plugs are fouling, then it must be the carb? Could a manifold leak cause the problem? Poor spark? Would hotter plugs work? Right now, I'm just guessing. Haven't been able to drive the car all summer and this has become frustrating. If I can't get it fixed, my after labor day option is to have it towed to somebody who actually knows what he's doing.....

Don't you ever sleep?

Avispa

On a brand new Mr. Gasket kit you can seat the rubber washer inside a groove for it in the upper (block facing) surface of the adapter plate first. Then put the bypass plate on top of the rubber washer. The bypass plate outer diameter should stick out of the inside of the adapter plate. Seat the big o-ring on the part of the bypass plate that sticks out. That will guide the big o-ring to the exact position in the block where it needs to be. If you want to use the original bypass plate to block gasket, put it on top of the bypass plate before installation. The whole assembly can be bolted to the block in one easy operation.

By the way, thanks very much to Frankie for sharing that his canister blew. I got a serious butt whipping in here a couple of weeks ago about spin on conversions. Someone asked me if I ever heard of a spin on blowing up; he was making the point that canisters are "better." Actually, I have never heard of a spin on blowing up. That includes on multi-thousand horsepower diesel engines (used to work for an offshore drilling contractor). Now, I have heard about a canister blowing up. I have no argument with keeping a canister for originality, but after 40 some odd years of filter development saying that canister filters designed in the 1950s are "better" is without foundation.

Spin on 1, canister 0.

JohnZ

Interesting that they couldn't follow the instructions and the diagram and left off the bypass valve ("interface", as they called it), which gives them zero flow through the filter (same pressure at the filter inlet as at the filter outlet, as the bypass valve forms the seal that separates the inlet and outlet paths).

Frankie the Fink

Ooops! Let's not follow THOSE instructions...guess I shoulda read 'em more closely.

Really...this is such a simple job. I did it standing under the rack at a friend's Jiffy Lube, using somebody else's tools, in my good street clothes and it took maybe 10 minutes....and I was rushing so they could get oil change customers into my spot....

Errr..my canister didn't actually explode (its in perfect condition and I have it saved). I hope my post didn't imply that....the tricky O-ring in the block that seals things up blew...snapped actually. Can't say if it was crimped on installation or just blew out.

STEVE59 Again, I do IT security consulting and hackers never sleep so I keep some odd hours at times and have logged way too many computer hours in my lifetime. Hotter plugs are generally trying to mask a problem....a properly running SBC should be happy with Autolite 86 or the original AC plug heat range. A screwed up carb will DEFINITELY foul plugs...my WCFBs did a number on my car for 3 months before I figured out they were fouling the plugs badly (in like 20 miles)!!! Turned out to be the wrong needle valves in the carbs were constantly dribbling gas into the cylinders. That and the fuel pump are your too biggest culprits. If you had bad oil rings it might cause it but you would notice other symptoms I'm sure.
Do the plugs smell like raw gas on removal or do they have clumpy, black, sooty deposits ??

Weak spark could conceivably do it but that's easy enough to check. Can't see it being a fuel TANK problem in an older car..unless you've converted to an electric pump submerged in the tank or something exotic like that.

Whatever it turns out to be change your oil soon....that extra gas is washing down your cylinder walls and diluting your oil's efficiency.