Brumbach

Anyone have a picture of a correct waterpump for 65 L79 (non-A/C if that makes a difference). Also, can you recommend a non-original, quality waterpump? Thanks

Bluestripe67

I know I put a Flowkooler water pump on my SB over twenty years ago. They are a little more expensive, but it's still doing the job. I think two of the important things that make pumps last is belt tension and pully alignment. Other factors should be considered such as the fan, the clutch and overall service of the cooling system. Dennis

JohnZ

The L-79 used a 326 water pump, with a 1/2" NPT tapped hole in the top for the bypass fitting - photo below. There's no need for a "whizbang" aftermarket water pump - the stock pump will work just fine.

Brumbach

I agree, and don't want a whizbanger -- just can't afford to pay for a numbers correct waterpump at the moment. Looking for a look alike, quality pump for my driver. Does GM still make a replacement unit?

Nowhere Man

go to any auto parts store and buy one. advance as one for 15 bucks.

Brumbach

Quality?

Nowhere Man

its a rebuilt from cardone? they refurbish just about everything for auto parts stores. I have one a cardone pump on my BB chevelle and so fair the 500 miles no problems. but I had to grind a little on the one flange to get the socket on the bolt.. but after painted chevy orange no one real really know

Brumbach

Thanks.

62Jeff

Sometimes the rebuilt water pumps have a larger hole in the top for the bypass. This can require a threaded insert in order to make up the difference.

May or not be important to you from a looks standpoint, but watch for it when getting a new pump from a functional perspective, so that you have all the parts you need to get it working.

rongold

Usually if the rebuilt pump has the larger hole, there will be a reducer in the box. You might even luck out, and the rebuilt will be a 326 GM pump. Sometimes you get a rebuilt aftermarket pump, and sometimes you get a rebuilt GM pump. I've gotten quite a few 3856284 big block pumps that way.

Allcoupedup

I finally ditched the autozone water pumps after blowing the bearing on several. Yep they have lifetime warranties but I got tired of painting and adding/hiding a reducer bushing and reinstalling.

You'll be fine with a crap pump if you keep the RPMs low. Rev it to 6500 and the pump is blown.

Call Arthur Gould and get a rebuilt pump with a HQ bearing and cast impeller. Doesnt have to be numbers matching - just built right with nice parts.

http://www.arthurgouldrebuilders.com/


Brian

Bluestripe67

Other than the NCRS police, no one could tell a so called "wisbang" pump/part from a GM or other casting by casually viewing of the engine compartment. The difference is internal and that is what counts. It's the larger bearing and more efficient impeller, which has proven to be able to do what it is intended to do for over 20 years and approx 60K miles. Rather than anguish over numbers, design detail and other non esential things, a one time purchase for a few more dollars has provided me and other with a good "wisbang" replacement part. It's your choice. Now, let me get in my car with some of my other "wizbang" parts and keep on driving! Dennis

BarryK

Dennis
if your aftermarket pump works good for you than great.
The issue is though that not all aftermarket pumps are the same. Many of these "wizbang" pumps that are advertised and sold in catalogs like JEGS, SUMMIT, and others as "Hi- Flow" pumps are designed for racing purposes. They are designed for sustained high RPM usage, typically in the 8-12,000 rpm range, without cavitation of the coolant. Great for a racing motor.
The problem comes in that these same units when used on a STREET driven car actually flow LESS coolant than stock units at typical street RPM ranges.
Customers need a waterpump, see advertised units saying "Hi-Flow, or hi-performance, etc and figure it must work as good or better than a stock unit so it should solve all their cooling problems. The vendors like JEGS, Summit, etc selling them aren't going to tell the customer not to buy it.
now they install this wizbang pump and wonder why it didn't solve their cooling problems and they keep throwing other parts on to try to fix it such as electric fans, flex fans, snake oil remedy's like Water Wetter, the list goes on. You have seen TONS of overheating posts on this forum to know what these cooling system fights involve. More than once it was simply because of these wizbang after market parts like "hi-flow" water pumps that actually created the problem in the first place or made it worst rather than actually helping it.

I'm not saying that ALL after market pumps are this way but many are and it makes the situation even more confusing.
bottom line is that for a street driven car sticking with a stock type unit is usually the best bet. GM designed the pumps to work on their motors, designed the cooling system as a SYSTEM with the stock pumps designed to operated properly as part of that system.
Why reengineer what already works.

Here is a good story as an example:

my very good friend had a new engine and transmission custom built for his vette. It's a 383 stroker with a 6-71 blower on top and a built 700R4 tranny. Spent a FORTUNE on this set-up. One of the parts they originally built the car with was a "hi-flow" water pump.
Motor was built by a local builder with a very good reputation.
He's had overheating issues from the very beginning since it was built over a year ago. The shop has stood by their work and has done everything to make it cool properly, on their own dime, including putting in a brand new DeWitts rad, adding a seperate transmission cooler, pulling the heads to make sure gaskets weren't wrong or blocking any coolant ports, etc, and a LONG list of other items.
I kept telling him to have the shop change out the water pump during one of the many times they have ripped things apart to try to fix the problem. This problem has been going on for over a year and he has gotten to drive the car only approx about 100 miles in that year because it's always back at the shop with the same problem.
They FINALLY decided to try a different water pump and guess what - they went to a stock unit. Amazingly the car is actually running at a reasonable operating temp... SHOCKING!

Whenever I see these overheating threads anymore and see after market wizbang water pumps I just shake my head and close the thread. There is no telling people that their fancy racing parts catalog part is actually causing or contributing to the problem rather than fixing it.

vetsvette2002

you need to get yourself an electric water pump for all of the free hp!!!

And to provide the extra volts and amps to run it you need a hydraulically driven alternator and get even more free hp!!!!

You should even mount a wind driven generator to the roof for even more free hp!!!!

Don't forget to mount solar panels on the hood for even more free hp!!!!

You should even get a Starlight scope to amplify the moon and stars light to get free hp at night.

Bluestripe67

Barry, I agree and understand all the above and have practiced a deliberate thought process in the selection of parts. You going to be a Carlisle, we'll have a cold one or two for ya'. Bring the palm trees, please Dennis

Brumbach

I don't disagree with a word you've said. Jegs, Summit and most other suppliers have a "stock waterpump" available. Do you have one that you recommend?

BarryK

no palm trees this year. IF I can make Carlisle it's most likely just going to be a one day trip.
I'll look around to try to find you and we can catch up. I assume you will be over at the '63-'67 registry area.
I don't drink though so my "cold one" is usually just a pepsi or iced tea

BarryK

yep, look at post #3

If you can't find a good GM 326 pump and must go aftermarket unit than at least check their flow specs and make sure that it flows the same rate as the stock OEM part at the same RPM ranges the OEM unit operates at.

From a former JohnZ post the stock OEM pumps have a flow rate of:

Engineering specs call for a SB pump to move 57 gallons per minute at 4400 engine rpm (4180 pump rpm), and a BB pump moves 82 gallons per minute at 5200 engine rpm (4940 pump rpm).

hope this helps

Brumbach

O'reilly and Autozone both offer remanufactured 326 pumps. I picked up mine from Autozone today. It's not exactly correct, in that it has a casting date on it but I don't really care. It's functionally correct for my 65 and I know everything should line up. Thanks fellow forum members for the assist. Won't be long and my project will be complete and installed in the car. Bill

jrs 427

The question is.... Is this an L-79 APPROVED pump ? You sound like this is a special application that 3 million other small blocks can't share. Carefully stamp your numbers in the casting so the motor doesn't figure out the abnormal piece.
Another number cruncher from never - never land.