hokie04

Last year I finished a frame off restoration of my 64 numbers matching convertible with 48,000 actual miles. The problem is I like cruising and the rebuilt 327 - 300hp and 4 speed are showing their age. The engine only has a thousand miles on it and it is already leaking oil around the rear main again. The transmission even though rebuilt is still jumping out of 3rd gear. The AFB even though rebuilt is a pain in hot weather.

I am thinking about pulling out the engine and trans and installing a new crate LS1, 3 or 6 engine (FI) and 5 or 6 speed trans. Does that make any sense or should I sell the car and buy a another driver that doesn't have an oem motor and modify that car?

I think if I use this one at least I don't have to restore another car. And if I ever plan to sell replace the original engine and trans and sell the other motor and trans separately.

What am I looking at in material cost around $10,000?



http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/hokie49/

vetsvette2002

I would never butcher up an original 64 Vert. Sell your 64 and buy another that isn't original and hot rod it or pull the NOM engine and trans, store them properly or sell them, and then install your hot rod stuff. But if you do you'll still have to butchert the drive tunnel to clear the transmission (manual trans) or butcher the trans support (auto OD).

Thats my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it.

Tampa Jerry

What rear do you currently have in the car? What is cruising mean to you? Are you looking to cruise around town or around the country? If you are running a 3:70 or lower rear, think about adding a Tremec OD transmission. Depending upon which Tremec you select, the cost would be about $3,200. You do not have to do any fabrication for this modification. I have a L-79 with a 4:10. I changed over to a Tremec 600 and now the RPMs are at 2100 at about 70 MPH. You can add about grand to the price if you farm out the job. The Tremec uses a rail system for its shifter. Once it is broken in, it is a pleasure to drive. Check with Tremec for a chart that will convert the final gear ratio, RPM and speed. Jerry

hokie04

Right now I am afraid to venture out over about a 100 miles one way and try to cruise in groups of cars. I live in Va and would like to be able to drive to things like Bowling Green, Carlisle but with running gear being old am afraid to do it. I am geared 3:55 Some members aren't afraid to drive them anywhere but I am not one of them. So your price on the trans and the price I got off of the web from GM on a crate motor will be around $10K like I thought. IF I dropped the LS engine and just bought a GM 350 I could save several thousand dollars.

MikeM

Assuming you really do have a rear main leaking or a rear cam plug and not just a valve cover or intake manifold leak, you still can fix it for very few dollars. You still have your transimission to fix. That could be a linkage adjustment or could mean you could slip somebody a few dead Franklins and get it fixed. You don't say what pain you're experiencing with the AFB but there's plenty enough of them still running that shows they will still do the job.

If that new engine is $10K and you think that's the end of it, think again. Just the tip of the iceberg to get the car running the way you're talking.

Besides, you'll still have the old differential, half shafts and wheel bearings. I don't understand your logic for a solution at all unless you just like to sling money around.

Bluestripe67

hokie04, The oil leak can be as simple as; the oil pan was overtightened too many times and the pan rail was not trued up before reinstallation, the rear main seal side edges might not have RTV in place, as stated before, the rear cam plug, the crankcase vent pipe not sealed, valve covers overtightened. Shifter adjustment may resolve your trans issue, or replace the entire unit with a Hurst Comp. Plus. The AFB may have the floats one 64th out or you may need a heat shield. You could go as far as using a later model manifold that will take the new Edelbrock version of AFB. vetsvette2002 and MikeM have some good thoughts. You should give them consideration. Dennis

hokie04

Thanks for all the feedback that is why I am asking the forum members so I don't go crazy on this car. I had planned on pulling the trans over the winter and taking it back to the guy who rebuilt originally and then take a look at the rear engine leak. The carb is another isssue I had it rebuilt last year and it runs great as long as you are driving it. It smells like it is running real rich but the I set the two screws using a vacumn gauge like the forum said. The gas mileage is terrible around 6 to 8 miles a gallon. Once I turn the car off for over ten minutes I get heat soak and the car doesn't want to start and when it does it won't idle and stumles until I get it back on the road and it is fine again. I see this same problem all over the forum. I have the factory heat shield installed and the holes on the intake plugged.

1snake

You need to find someone that knows what they are doing. The person/persons that did the previous repairs obviously don't.

Jim

MikeM

If you're gettin' 6-8 mpg, you wasted your time trying to set the carb idle screws with a vacuum gauge. You have other, minor problems.

If you're gonna' pull the transmission out to get it worked on, pull the engine with it. It'll be real easy to see where it's leaking if it's hanging in the air.

Clean the oil/dirt off it and throw it back in there after you fix the leak.

It'd be hard to beat a 327/300 engine for cruising, for the money, whether it had an AFB on it or electronic fuel injection.

silvercamaro

I'm a huge fan of LS engines. I have the same car you have ('64, 327/300 4-speed, etc) and if you don't enjoy driving it, why bother keep the car? That's my thought.

I did the same for my '69 Camaro, and I'm doing it for this Corvette. 5.3L, 4L60, power brakes, power steering, etc...but, I will keep everything in case it needs to go back to original. Are you building or driving the car for yourself, or for somebody else? Think about it, if you did need to sell it, a nicely built '64 with a LS would still go for alot of money - with or without the original engine included with the sale. I'm not worried about modifying the frame (for a 4L60), that can always be put back to original.

But then again, I agree with other comments that you shouldn't let small issues here and there make you think a total rebuild needs to happen.

hokie04

I guess I am expecting too much from a 46 year old car. The engine was professionally rebuild by the top engine builder around my area. I guess I can't say anything until I pull the trans and see what's going on with the leak. The trans is another story it was a friend of a friend so you know how that goes I should have known better. Same goes for the carb. Probably need to send the trans and carb off to someone who knows what they are doing.

vt65

that's your best plan!

Avispa

You'll only butcher the car if you have to make holes in or alter any of the frame of body parts to make a new engine and trans fit. There are so many decent small block crate motors for relatively low $ that will drop right in and use all of your factory accessories (PS, water pump, alternator, exhaust manifolds, starter ,etc.). Keisler has what they advertise as a no-alteration 5 speed, complete with driveshaft, shifter and speedometer hookup. You can do all of that for under 10 grand and store your original trans and motor. LS motors are wonderful but in addition to the 10k for the motor, you'll have to get engine mount adapters and all the accessories that bolt up to it, not to mention a suitable ECM. A gen 1 small block is a much cheaper and easier way to go.

Popping out of 3d/4th gear happens all the time when the stock bronze clutch pilot bushing wears. It can wear to that point in as little as 1,000 miles. Put in a needle bearing replacement and never pop out of gear again.

(.....covers his head and waits for the rain of poop from the breaker points and canister oil filter fans....lol)

70mph@2200rpm

LS motor and tranny...installed with ALL of the necessary parts and modifications (A/C?)will cost at least 20K. I know because I have spent the past 9 months researching it.
Do you even have disc brakes to stop your 430-505 hp LS-3?...there's more $$$.

MiguelsC2

It then skyrockets from there.

Find yourself a good mechanic. Spend your time and energy solving the issues on this build. The LS conversion will come with it's own set of headaches to solve. Most are much more complex than the issues you are having.

lakebumm

PM sent.

BILL SR

327Heaven

The 327-300 is a great cruising engine. After all the work you've done don't let these small bumps in the road deter you. I have the same engine with a little tweeking for added power, reliability, and safety. It will cruise all day without overheating and with the air on. I don't worry about numbers matching and future value. These cars are meant to be driven.

Fix the problem(s) and get out there. People are waiting to see your ride on the road

silvercamaro

Uh, not quite. My last conversion was about $5k. How many have these have you done?

Frankie the Fink

As others have noted I would try to keep the original running gear if possible. I can drive my little 283 anywhere now (if I could stand the heat) but I did make the swap to a Tremec just to increase cruising pleasure and mileage. At least have the problems looked over by a pro before a final decision. If I can roll along at 80MPH for a couple of hours (before its time for a break) in the '61 you can certainly get the '64 to do it...

70mph@2200rpm

I haven't done one, yet, because all of the new parts, without labor, is approx. $15,000.
But if you would please tell me what you did for $5k, I'd really like to know.