Westlotorn

I registered my 1966 L79 in California 4 years ago, I bought it from a friend in Michigan.
Michigan keeps the old plates, so I now went to California DMV with my new purchase to get a Non Op tag. This avoids paying high licence fee's until it is actually on the road.
When I presented all the paperwork to the counter person she told me the car would need to be inspected before I could get my Non Op.
I told her fine, the car is outside on my trailer. I waited 20 minutes for the inspector to come out and go over the car. They asked me to open the hood which I did. They walked around looked over everything with great interest and told me to wait inside.
After another 30 minutes waiting the inspector came out and called me to the counter.
They gave me licence plates and registration on the spot. I paid the money and moved on.
Now after the fact I will tell you, they never looked where the ID numbers actually are. My car is a full numbers match car so I was not worried at all but it was funny to see them do their job. Fact number 2, I wanted a non op because I did not wish to trouble with all the inspections, Lights, Brakes, Exhaust and whatever else they wish to throw in.
This car had not been out of a garage for 28 years. I will have it perfect when it hits the road but at the time it passed inspection the engine was frozen, the brakes did not have any fluid in the lines and when I hooked up a charged battery only one headlight worked on the entire car, no brake lights, no running lights, no windshield wipers. But it is legal for road use and I received the plates and tags. It is still in my garage and will not leave untill all is perfect mechanically and legally. I really got a kick out of the system on this one.

MagicCarpet

Glad I came across this discussion. I'm looking at purchasing a '62 from a nationally known, reputable dealer in used Corvettes. They state in the advertisment for the car that the VIN was issued by the State of Kentucky. I've emailed them some quesions, most notably why the car has a Kentucky issued VIN. Should I avoid this car, or is everything legit? (Just emailed them yesterday, I don't expect a reply before Monday.)

JohnZ

Lots of '61-'62's had the VIN plate fall off the steering column (poor design), or it could have been stolen at some point and the VIN plate was stripped off the column. If the VIN on the state-issued plate matches the number on the title, it's probably legitimate.

The state-issued VIN doesn't affect the car's eligibility for judging, but it frequently takes a big hit in terms of resale value.

C1-Curt

Bill,
How did you remove the tag without damaging it and how did you reattach it to the new column. What brand column did you get, I think I am getting an Ididit at this point.

Curt

C-1 Generation 2

On my 62 the tag kept coming loose off the column over the years.So when I installed the JMR IFS with the Ididit column I mounted the tag on the door jamb like the pre 60 models.

wmf62

the tack welds are flimsy and can be broken easily. i glued mine onto the new column.

FWIW, i have carefully documented with photos the change of the VIN tag.
Bill

chris ritchie

That tag is only spot or tack welded to the column. It could easily fall off. I recommend running a hose clamp around it to make sure it stays in place.

C1-Curt

Bill,
Are you running disk brakes on the front, I notice you still have the single master brake unit? Wondering how that is working out if you are running disks. Also if you are running disks I assume you added a proportioning valve, which did you use?

Plasticman

Bill ran the stock M/C up until a few years ago, when he converted to a dual Mopar M/C. He has both front and rear disc brakes. No proportioning valve or any other valve was used.

I (and several other forum members) am running front disc with the stock rear drums, and the original M/C, but you must take out the integral residual pressure valve, located in the front area of the original M/C. If you don't, the brakes will drag. And again, no other valves of any type are used. A proportioning valve certainly would not hurt, but for how we drive the Vettes, it does not seem to be needed.

The dual Mopar M/C requires "some" modification in order to use it, but the beauty of it is that is looks like it belongs (no funky extention tube required).


You can read through the "book" on this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-cylinder.html

With additional info on actual modifications here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-for-a-c1.html

Plasticman

John S 1961

I agree, then any DMV will pull it into a garage and do their inspection for the "Secret VIN Location" they will then return and say " this is not exactly standard procedure, I have to check with my supervisor" and depending on wether the supervisor has gray in his hair he will say OK or he will check with somebody else. Once they talk to the ranking guy with gray in his hair they will say OK.

wmf62

i just want to add to John's response. i originally started out 35 years ago with 4-piston C2 front discs and drum rears using the original M/C and no proportioning valve, then about 5 or so years ago added rear discs, again using only the original M/C and no valve.

there was no particular reason i went to the dual M/C other than an 'itch-to-scratch' (and i'm a 'tinkerer') and to show that it would fit an FI car. still not using a valve.
Bill

C1-Curt

Bill,
When you were the original master running disk did you remove the residual pressure valve fr0m the M/C?

Curt

Plasticman

Curt,

Yes he did. He had dragging brakes, and found out that it was caused by the residual pressure valve in the M/C.

I answered, since he is probably asleep by now (needs his beauty sleep).

Plasticman (John)

C1-Curt

John,
Thanks! Now you have me thinking with this residual pressure valve removal need Don't the rear drums still need the 10lbs? I noticed Wilwood has an inline unit in either 2 or 10 available?

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...derValves.aspx

Curt

Plasticman

Curt,

I have not heard of anyone who has installed a residual pressure valve (to the rear drums) in their C1. I have had the front discs since 2005, and have not had any issues. I know at least 2 other "local" front discs / rear drums C1 Vettes (also forum members), and neither has any valves, whatsoever. If we saw any air coming back into the lines (via the drum brake wheel cylinder seals - see below), then I could understand installing one. But my brake pedal is as firm as it was when I installed the disc brakes in 2005. I can't think why putting one in would "hurt", if you feel the need, but we have not seen the need.

From the ECI website:

http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html

10 PSI Valves - These valves are used in a drum brake system to prevent air from being ingested into the hydraulic system when you release the brake pedal. Typical wheel cylinder seals only seal when there is pressure behind them. Rapid release of the brake pedal creates a vacuum in the system which causes the seals to relax and air is ingested into the wheel cylinders. Maintaining 10 PSI in the system at all times prevents this. Some disc/drum master cylinders have 10 PSI residual pressure valves installed internally, some don't. If you're not sure, call us and we can tell you how to check. Also, some new style wheel cylinders have cup expanders which negate the need for the residual pressure valve. Either way, if you are not sure whether you have one or not, put one in. They are not cumulative and it won't hurt anything if you have two. Don't worry about brake drag, it takes roughly 75 PSI to overcome the return springs.

Think it time to start a new thread, since we have hijacked this one all over the place. If you have more questions, please start a new one, and I will be happy to reply.

John (plasticman)

JohnZ

Actually, the primary purpose of the RPV in a drum brake system is to reduce the pedal travel needed to get the shoes from their zero-pressure rest position out in contact with the drums; without an RPV, it can take nearly a full pedal stroke, especially if the shoes are in need of adjustment.

John S 1961

My car I bought in 1978 never had a vin, never knew to look, it either fell off or the column was replaced. This was standard practice back then. The VIN has been verified at the Frame and I got a new tag from AG Backeast? (I recall) just havent put it on yet.

It is possible to get a picture of the VIN with a Mirror good lighting and a cleanup on the frame, If you are spending some substantial $'s it should be not problem for the seller to do this, they will be asked again.

mashinter

John:

This didn't sound quite right. The residual pressure valve keeps the cup seal lip in contact with the cylinder wall when the brakes are released. If the lip seal isn't held against the cylinder wall, air can be introduced. It is the air in the system that can increase pedal travel. The residual pressure is not enough to overcome return spring force.

I got this from the Brake Handbook by Fred Puhn. This book was the bible when I worked in brakes decades ago



Bill

32361ARTHUR

I've had lots of experience with stamping numbers from the DMV here in Las Vegas. Many cars , bike, and bike trailers. These guys are actually pretty helpful. When I came here from California 15 years ago I had a 33 Ford that I had already owned for 20 years. I found out that I would need a vin inspection so I was looking for the original numbers. Ford stamped them on the frame in those days before they installed the body. If the numbers were stamped back to far by less than 2 inches the body some times covered them when it was mounted. I couldn't find the numbers and I owned that car since 1977. I decided to stamp my own numbers on the frame to match my 20 year old title so that I could register it here in Nevada. Early Ford numbers had a star in front of them. I didn't have a punch with a star on it so I just stamped the numbers without it. When I had it inspected they showed me a book with how the numbers should have looked and of course they didn't look like mine. I told them that I stamped the numbers myself because I couldn't find the original ones, and I stamped them on the wrong frame rail because it had more room there to swing the hammer into the stamps. I also told them that I've owned this car for 20 years at that time. They called the California DMV and found out that the car was registered to me as far back as their records went. They then told me that I would have to have a new stamp on a little metal plate with numbers they assign me not the original numbers riveted to my car. They were actually real nice about everything considering the situation. Anyway they let me pick the spot and it wasn't to bad. The car was original when I got it in 1977 from a guy in the V8 Ford Club which is the equivilent of the NCRS and it was all stock even original paint. Over the years I put 1940 Ford hydraulic brakes on it and a hot rod flathead engine repaced the stock one. Finally a friend of mine who had many top chops under his belt chopped the top. The car won a few Good Guy shows but was far from original so the stamped tag didn't upset me that much. The car recently sold for big money and now lives in Germany.

NOM61

Arthur,

Your experience with NV DMV mirrors my own. I had one car with a screwed up vin on the title from Cali and they made me transport it to a Cali DMV to get it straightened out before I could register it in NV.
When I asked the inspection supervisor at the Decatur office about removing the original column in the 61 he made it very clear that under NV law I would be required to get one of those lovely assigned vin tags that you ended up with. Very nice guy, very knowledgeable and very "by the book". I think its just the result of living in one of the stolen car capitols of the US.
I might just say the heck with it and swap the column as advocated by so many on this board who live in states with a much more laissez faire attitude toward vehicle registration and keep my fingers crossed that a NHP officer doesn't ask to look under the hood during a routine traffic stop. What's the worst they could do? Impound the car and fine me? Might be an expensive cab ride home!

DT