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Old 08-31-2010, 02:58 PM   #1
Kerrmudgeon
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Default Comp Cams kit lifter problems....?

My friend is having a Comp cam kit installed on his 68 big block. On the first start up drive, it started ticking away, then missing. When the mechanic checked it out the rocker had come off the pushrod and the plunger on that lifter was stuck down. When he tried to remove the lifter (BRAND NEW!) it wouldn't come out of the bore with a magnetic remover. It gets stuck when the face of the lifter meets the block, not a good sign. He's taking the intake back off to remove the lifter. Is this more junk parts, or perhaps the guy screwed up the rocker adjustment, or timing? To me, I'd be worried that down the road, more would fail, or the cam is already compromised. Opinions??

Last edited by Kerrmudgeon; 08-31-2010 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:29 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kerrmudgeon View Post
My friend is having a Comp cam kit installed on his 68 big block. On the first start up drive, it started ticking away, then missing. When the mechanic checked it out the rocker had come off the pushrod and the plunger on that lifter was stuck down. When he tried to remove the lifter (BRAND NEW!) it wouldn't come out of the bore with a magnetic remover. It gets stuck when the face of the lifter meets the block, not a good sign. He's taking the intake back off to remove the lifter. Is this more junk parts, or perhaps the guy screwed up the rocker adjustment, or timing? To me, I'd be worried that down the road, more would fail, or the cam is already compromised. Opinions??
I have not been impressed with Comp Cams products for many years. Quality and reliability are the issues.

However, others have used with no known issues. Just something to consider when spec'ing a new cam.

FWIW.

Larry
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:06 PM   #3
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I just put a Comp's cam, lifters, and pushrods in my car (383 stroker). Ran it through the break-in cycle with no problems, and it's been doing great for several hundred miles now. I used a higher ZDDP oil and Comp's additive for the break-in, if that makes a difference.
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:22 PM   #4
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It gets stuck when the face of the lifter meets the block, not a good sign........ or the cam is already compromised. Opinions??
I'd say you nailed it.
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Old 08-31-2010, 05:09 PM   #5
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I have Comp Cams gear in 2 383s, several thousand miles each with no problems. Each one gets driven like it was stolen. Just as parts fail from time to time, mechanics and machinists also make mistakes but the cam provider always takes the hit on forums.
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:20 PM   #6
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Going to look at it tomorrow when the intakes off. Let you know what I see............thanks, K.
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:28 PM   #7
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I just put a set of comp's solid lifters in my car. During breakin I had the inner valve springs removed. No problems so far with about 3K on her.

Are you using a stock style cam and springs?
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:33 PM   #8
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I think the springs are stock, but the cam is a couple of jumps up in performance. I saw the cam sheet, I think the lift was 5.10 and 5.18or28.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:19 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by kerrmudgeon View Post
I think the springs are stock, but the cam is a couple of jumps up in performance. I saw the cam sheet, I think the lift was 5.10 and 5.18or28.
Was the proper break in procedure and lube (2000-2500 fluctuating rpm for 30 mins w/ break in additive) followed,or did it fail before that was possible?
Were double springs used during break in? They say to use a single spring.

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Old 08-31-2010, 08:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 1sttexan View Post
Was the proper break in procedure and lube (2000-2500 fluctuating rpm for 30 mins w/ break in additive) followed,or did it fail before that was possible?
Were double springs used during break in? They say to use a single spring.
I'll ask, thanks.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:20 PM   #11
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There`s nothing wrong with new parts, here its a bad mechanic or what ever......no reason in the world that a rocker arm would be loose and a push rod jump off a rocker....Bad installation, fortunately the parts may still be usable....
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I think the springs are stock, but the cam is a couple of jumps up in performance. I saw the cam sheet, I think the lift was 5.10 and 5.18or28.

what likely happened is that the spring bound...

so the valve can't do down anymore, and the cam is still pushing the lifter up... something has to give... usually a bent pushrod, sometimes a bent valve.... in this case, the lifter gave out (collapsed) and probably wiped the sumbitch, mushrooming the bottom enough not to let it come out the lifter bore.

so lets blame it on Comp Cams LOL.
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:58 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by aaronz28 View Post
what likely happened is that the spring bound...

so the valve can't do down anymore, and the cam is still pushing the lifter up... something has to give... usually a bent pushrod, sometimes a bent valve.... in this case, the lifter gave out (collapsed) and probably wiped the sumbitch, mushrooming the bottom enough not to let it come out the lifter bore.

so lets blame it on Comp Cams LOL.


Stock heads/valve springs won't tolerate that much lift, the cam instructions sheets are pretty clear on that. I had my old (small block) Bowtie heads machined for larger diameter springs,and proper clearance for lifts up to .550" when i had them redone 3-4 years ago.

Doug
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:51 AM   #14
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I had a guys 69 in my shop last year. he had installed a comp cam and lifters in his 454and couldnt get to run right. turned out what happened was comp cams had boxed the lifters wrong, solid lifters in hyd box.not only was the cam ruined but the engine was full of metal from the cam being wiped.which required a new engine.I think comp cams ended up giving him around $2000.00 toward a new motor.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #15
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Update, They forgot to tell me this! On first start up, the cam was not properly degreed in or dist was off and bent half of the pushrods, and I'm thinking that's where the damage occurred. They then degreed it within one degree, and put it back together with some new rods and whatever else they bent. When they restarted it and went for a drive all was fine for a short time, then, like I said originally, it was all downhill. In my mind the cam and recip. parts are already doomed especially if it happened before any breakin on 1st startup. I think this mechanic should stick to lawnmowers, and my friend should get his car the he11 out of there. But he's already in to the tune of 2G's. ????
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Update, They forgot to tell me this! On first start up, the cam was not properly degreed in or dist was off and bent half of the pushrods, and I'm thinking that's where the damage occurred. They then degreed it within one degree, and put it back together with some new rods and whatever else they bent. When they restarted it and went for a drive all was fine for a short time, then, like I said originally, it was all downhill. In my mind the cam and recip. parts are already doomed especially if it happened before any breakin on 1st startup. I think this mechanic should stick to lawnmowers, and my friend should get his car the he11 out of there. But he's already in to the tune of 2G's. ????
is the shop going to pay for parts and repairs?
Bill
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:20 PM   #17
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is the shop going to pay for parts and repairs?Bill
No idea Bill, but they didn't like me even looking at it, like calling in a second opinion. My bud is no mechanic, not a clue.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:06 AM   #18
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Sounds like Comp is not to blame. I use nothing but Comp products with no problems.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:12 AM   #19
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Sounds like Comp is not to blame. I use nothing but Comp products with no problems.
there are problems sometimes with all manufacturers ....comp has their issues too, i know, ive been there
these issues can be rectified before installation in most cases
it all depends on the skill level of the " mechanic "
jmo.......

preparation is the key to avoid costly mistakes
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:12 AM
 
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