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Project 396 - THE PLAN

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Old 10-22-2010, 04:43 PM
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Moto One
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Not that it will change your mind, but here is ours with 15X7s 3.75 back space wheels on all four corners.


Mark
Old 10-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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Blue 396
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AZ Doug
Not to hijack the 396 thread - but i think the 4 bangers might have been refered to as the "Iron Duke" tooo long ago to recall foresure

As to the choice in wheels - IMO go with American Racing or something different like old school Cragars - seems like every midyear (C2) i see at a show has KO's - yes they look great (i've got a set in the shed with goldlines) but there are so many they are boring IMO. I get very positive feedback on the "old school" Americans on old blue!

with your motor selection gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfull

Save the wave !
Old 10-22-2010, 06:20 PM
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Mike Culpepper
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Larry,
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx

I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
Old 10-24-2010, 05:14 PM
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Larry N. Johnson
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Originally Posted by stickers


Might give some consideration to a beige soft top on this combo, unless you know black was original color on this car.

Great plan!!! Keep us up to date.

Bob
Bob,

Good suggestion. My soft top is now black and the odometer reads 43k miles, last plated in 1980 so the top was likey black as it left St. Louis factory. But that is all I know, no "documentation".

I like your suggestion, beige top would look like this;

Old 10-24-2010, 05:17 PM
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Larry N. Johnson
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Originally Posted by Mike Culpepper
Larry,
If I may offer a suggestion. You already have the third pair of tail lights, but they are all red. Why not do it like the Stingray racer? Three tail lights, with the center lights being the white/clear back up lights and no chrome bezels around any of them?

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...0,0/photo.aspx

I've always preferred the stock two lights, but I really like the way the racer looks. I'm thinking of doing this myself eventually.
Different and subtle.
Mike,

I prefer 6 tail lights, too. This was a very difficult decison, but like some other decisions this "rare and desireable car" statement of fact over-rides my personal wants. I have to restore the car to 4 tail lights.

Larry
Old 10-24-2010, 05:35 PM
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Default Clarification

Originally Posted by Blue 396
...As to the choice in wheels - IMO go with American Racing or something different like old school Cragars - seems like every midyear (C2) i see at a show has KO's - yes they look great (i've got a set in the shed with goldlines) but there are so many they are boring IMO. I get very positive feedback on the "old school" Americans on old blue!

with your motor selection gobs of HP and all the torque u'll every need -only problem even with the 5-speed - you'll never stop filling 'er up at about $54.00 a tankfull

Save the wave !
Regarding wheels, we have 2 sets:
1. Rally wheels w 67 caps, 15x7, 215/70R15 tires planned
2. American Racing Torque Thrust II, 17x7, Goodyear tires see here.

Regarding the engine:
1. The car is bone stock except for the engine.
2. The 396 I have is from a 70 Chevelle 396 SS car. Not a decent engine for today's fuels IMHO so I don't want to plow $ into it.
3. The M20 4-speed w a 3.70 is untennable as far as where I live, driving, etc. I don't want a "trailer queen" show car type. If it can't be driven, where is the "fun factor"?
4. I feel w OD in the 5-speed, and w the 500 ft-lbs torque, the 3400 lb (save 100 lbs w the alum heads) car will move around at lower rpm's and maybe get 16 mpg or so. That may be a stretch on MPG, but that's the hope. If needed the 3.70's can be swapped for 3.31's or 3.08's or whatever makes better sense.
5. $54 a fill up? What do we have 16 gallon tanks? I have no idea what size the gas tanks are in a C2.
6. Anyway, the engine is a "driver" designed for lower octane fuels, roller cam, etc. until a 1965 396 can be found and made to "appear as the car left the factory." Then all one has to do is a bolt in swap back to the 4-speed and all.
Old 10-24-2010, 05:44 PM
  #27  
Larry N. Johnson
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Originally Posted by Moto One
Not that it will change your mind, but here is ours with 15X7s 3.75 back space wheels on all four corners.


Mark
Nice car Mark!

With 3.75" bs rally's one can run the 3" trim rings.
I will have those on the rear.

On the front, I wanted extra backspace to clear the fenders by plenty, so have 4.25" bs.

Thanks for posting.
Old 10-25-2010, 04:48 PM
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Larry,

Seeing as it's a 396 car, I'd do the same thing and return it to stock. Keep us all posted.

Mike
Old 10-25-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry N. Johnson
Nice car Mark!

With 3.75" bs rally's one can run the 3" trim rings.
I will have those on the rear.

On the front, I wanted extra backspace to clear the fenders by plenty, so have 4.25" bs.

Thanks for posting.
I had see your posting, an your car looks very nice too. The look that we were going for was one of our early auto-x days, so we never considered using the beauty rings. (by the way it did have them on when it first arrived, with 5.5 wheels.) As for clearance on the front we have just over 1/2 in on turn it. (that's taken at the lower edge of the front fender.) We are planing at sometime mounting a set of vintage Firestones, Goodyear, or Dunlap road race tires that are not much wider then the size that is mounted now.

I wanted to paint the rims Red to match the car, but after test fitting and seeing that the finish of the silver was so nice we keep them as they arrived.

Mark.
Old 11-28-2010, 08:26 AM
  #30  
raypilot65
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Jeff's right. Why go 90 some odd percent?
Originally Posted by 62Jeff
Considering how much work you are doing, I think leaving the body on the frame simply because of a concern about door gaps, is a missed opportunity to do the car right for little risk.

If you document the number, thickness, and location of body shims as you remove the body, you should be OK when you put it all back together. You have described a large amount of work, it'd be a shame to leave the body on so that you can spend actually more work trying to restore the chassis on your back.
Old 11-28-2010, 10:18 AM
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Good Luck Larry. It looks like you have the 10% inspiration taken care of. Now comes the 90% perspiration!
No matter what you choose, its going to be a great car.
John
Old 12-24-2010, 07:57 PM
  #32  
Larry N. Johnson
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Hey Larry,
For the stock look, had you considered Knock Offs or original 65 hubcaps? As you know, I also like the look of the Rallys but I think for the stock look I would have to go with the Knock offs or the caps. That's it Larry, a third look!!!!!
Don
Got the caps!
Old 02-21-2013, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry N. Johnson
Got the caps!
Larry, do you still have that 3124 carb?
Old 02-21-2013, 02:45 PM
  #34  
Larry N. Johnson
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Originally Posted by EddieG
Larry, do you still have that 3124 carb?
Yes, can you email me primequip at comcast dot net?
Old 03-08-2013, 03:56 PM
  #35  
Larry N. Johnson
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Default Keisler Tremec Box Opened

Well it's time to think about getting the engine for the 396 and the Keisler 5-speed "perfect fit kit" installed.

Step 1 Open Box - even has the Keisler invoice showing TKO-600 w 0.64 OD confirmed - that should drop the rpm down to reasonable!

Step 2 inventory parts - seems all here except shifter plate

Step 3 Compare shaft diameter on the Tremec and Muncie 0.60" on both (should fit)

Step 4 Compare shaft length 6.5" on both. (should fit)

Step 5 Open new clutch - both Tremec input shaft and Clutch Disk same 26 spline count. (will fit)

Step 6 Read instructions - conclude assemble outside the car, install engine/trans as a package. Will measure gap between body and trans mount area to see if body shims will be needed.

Step 7 Call parts shop and order Mr. Gasket No. 910 bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel at the advise of Mike Forte who supplied the clutch.

Step 8 Ponder if my engine hoist will lift everything over the body and drop into the engine area without wrecking the paint job or ruin the detail work in the engine area...
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:57 PM
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Getting close now Larry!
Old 03-08-2013, 06:45 PM
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Larry N. Johnson
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Hello there Don!
How is sunny So Cal?

WE have a cruise planned for May 8 - so a deadline always helps things along.
Installing the engine/trans is my major worry at this point. The Tremec is 3" longer and it has to go up on the rear trans mount somehow...

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Old 03-08-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry N. Johnson
Hello there Don!
How is sunny So Cal?

WE have a cruise planned for May 8 - so a deadline always helps things along.
Installing the engine/trans is my major worry at this point. The Tremec is 3" longer and it has to go up on the rear trans mount somehow...
All is well down here in So Cal. I am sure that someone here can help since there have been so many others who have make that improvement!
Old 03-08-2013, 11:51 PM
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Larry,

Agree with your decision to install eng and trans as a unit...I removed the radiator, support to give me more room to maneuver.

I also dropped the steering arm to better clear the oil pan. Reason was to give me enough room to level the engine low enough to get the tailshaft of the TKO600 up and over my non removable crossmember. If you have already have a removable cross member disregard.

My hoist is the harbor freight rig...has the extendable boom and I needed every inch of it. I also used a load leveler from harbor freight...they have two versions...the load leveler's added length of chain gave me enough distance to get the motor in. I came in from the front and the ram was against the nose...had to wrap the mast to protect the paint. I have installed engines from the side but I was by myself and I needed the room under the car to crawl in and lift the trans over the crossmember...I couldn't do that if I had the hoist coming in from the side so that is why I installed from the front.



Good luck...that eng/transcombo is going to scream!!
Old 07-08-2015, 11:53 AM
  #40  
Larry N. Johnson
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Default Progress and Status Project 396

Progress and Status

1. Engine installed
2. Paint finished
3. Wiring done enough to run engine.
4. Brakes bled.
5. Car runs good.
6. Drives fine.
7. Way too loud.
8. Some wiring issue draining battery.
9. Still need to finish wiring behind dash, gauges, power windows, headlight motors, wipers, chrome.
10. Sold to Pete Emery of Oregon June 24, 2015

11. Thanks to everyone for all the help!!
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