'59 Barn Find
#22
Melting Slicks
I would clean it up, replace the hood and put the orginal manifold back with 4bbl and show it as an orginal unrestored 59. I would not drive it much as I would want it as a show car. I would have the newly painted hood blended in with the orginal paint condition.
#23
Le Mans Master
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He will, in all likelihood, never take it to a show. He has no interest in that kind of thing. NCRS will probably never get within 1,000 miles of the car. It just isn't his thing. It is more important that it is taken back to the way his uncle modified it. That is why the Strombergs will most likely be retained, but I do appreciate the input. Keep them coming.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 09-18-2010 at 11:47 AM.
#24
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I'd wash it, clean it up, deal with the fluids and safety systems, and DRIVE it!
#25
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I agree with JohnZ, wash it , clean it, buff it, go through the brakes, carbs, check the wiring which is probably OK if its never been messed with stored inside if no mice. These cars from that period unrestored are show stoppers! Great car!
#26
Pro
I agree with the above comments......clean it up, make it safe and drive it. That is a great find!
BTW, what are the lights on each side with the yellow or amber lenses?
Please keep us posted on it.
Thanks, Doug
BTW, what are the lights on each side with the yellow or amber lenses?
Please keep us posted on it.
Thanks, Doug
#27
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They are spot lights. There is a large floor switch above the headlight switch that must have been used to activate them. BTW, I am told by people who were familiar with the car, that the owner devised a signaling light that came on when the carburetors went into progressive mode. It is near the heater control and clock.
#28
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Just a thought.....before you start using those seats, try to use a conditioner on the vinyl covers to moisturize them. They are going to be very dry and brittle from sitting and will crack. Never Know it might work.
#32
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St. Jude Donor '10
He will, in all likelihood, never take it to a show. He has no interest in that kind of thing. NCRS will probably never get within 1,000 miles of the car. It just isn't his thing. It is more important that it is taken back to the way his uncle modified it. That is why the Strombergs will most likely be retained, but I do appreciate the input. Keep them coming.
#33
Race Director
Clean the black widows out and replace ALL the rubber fuel lines and brake lines.
Rebuild the carbs and brake cylinders (and fuel pump).
At least it won't burn to ground then,and it has a chance of stopping safely.
The rest is cosmetic, or perhaps comfort(suspension/shocks/seats).
Doug
Rebuild the carbs and brake cylinders (and fuel pump).
At least it won't burn to ground then,and it has a chance of stopping safely.
The rest is cosmetic, or perhaps comfort(suspension/shocks/seats).
Doug
#34
Melting Slicks
Great find Dan! A lot of good suggestions given. Only one I can add is to check the exhaust system for holes and the heat riser valve if it has one and check the steering box for lubricant. Keep the pics coming as you move along on this project. Guess that's three.
#35
Drifting
To get mine running after 39 years:
Replace radiator
Replace all freeze plugs
Replace block drain bolts (originals disintegrated)
Flush after flush after flush with high pressure water, CLR, and Prestone flush
Replace thermostat
Replace radiator hoses
Replace fan/generator belt
Engine oil and filter
Spark Plugs
Ignition points
Battery
Steering box grease
Top off brake fluid and adjust brake shoes
Tires
...and I'm driving it. I've done quite a few other things by now but that was the major stuff that had to be done for it to start and run well.
The gas tank was empty and clean with the original cap still intact. I'm still getting a little bit of tiny rust specs at the bottom of my fuel filter but nothing big.
Replace radiator
Replace all freeze plugs
Replace block drain bolts (originals disintegrated)
Flush after flush after flush with high pressure water, CLR, and Prestone flush
Replace thermostat
Replace radiator hoses
Replace fan/generator belt
Engine oil and filter
Spark Plugs
Ignition points
Battery
Steering box grease
Top off brake fluid and adjust brake shoes
Tires
...and I'm driving it. I've done quite a few other things by now but that was the major stuff that had to be done for it to start and run well.
The gas tank was empty and clean with the original cap still intact. I'm still getting a little bit of tiny rust specs at the bottom of my fuel filter but nothing big.
Last edited by 92GTA; 09-18-2010 at 11:16 PM.
#37
Live Free or Die
Wash it, make it safe to drive and preserve as a memory of Corvette heritage before the resto-weenies took control. Most of all, drive the wheels off it.