jtranger

My '61 has an occasional rattle coming from the shifter/clutch fork area. I put a heavier rattle spring on the rod and fork. When I move the fork up and down by hand it seems sloppier than my '65. How much up and down play should be in the fork and what problem would too much play indicate? Thanks, Larry

Frankie the Fink

The clutch fork pivots on a replaceable, screw-in, ball stud whose lubrication dissipates after a while so it gets worn badly quite often. The fork also has a thin piece of metal riveted to the back that grips the ball stud and occasionally a rivet comes loose and the thin metal can rattle. If this is loose it will certainly be noisey and cause play.

You can see both items on this page (enlarge the fork picture):
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050e~Z5 Z5Z5AALMM~P53.95~~~~S31Y0HPSL62411092465 8f~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050x#

You may also want to disconnect your gorilla spring and pull up and push down on your Z-bar to see if THOSE ball studs are worn...play should be nearly non-existent here too. Of course it would be best to get the car on a lift with the wheels free and observe while somebody runs through the gears shifting, etc..

jtranger

Frank, Thanks for the great illustration. I know you recently tackled this issue. Is there a way to easily disconnect the fork and check the fork and pivot stud? Can it be visibly inspected without removing the bellhousing? Thanks

Frankie the Fink

If you take the cotter pin and small washer off the clutch fork push rod (the threaded rod that attaches to the Z-bar where you adjust the clutch) that is about as loose as you can get things without major dis-assembly. That may be enough to determine if there is excessive play or wear in the clutch fork arrangement. If you zoom in on the attachment you'll see that the clutch fork pivot stud faces forward from the rear of the bell housing so its not directly visible.

I really think you need to get your car on a lift then run it while shifting gears and try to isolate the rattle before you get too carried away. I found a weird rattle on my car only happened in reverse backing into the garage and drove me nuts for a few weeks. Turned out to be a loose splash pan.

Plasticman

Note that as mentioned above, lubrication is "key". I always use a high moly content grease for these ***** and also for the throw out bearing "slide" areas.

Left over cam installation grease is ideal for these applications. It will last a lot longer than standard chassis lube!

Plasticman

jtranger

Can the ball stud / fork be removed for inspection and lubrication without removing the bellhousing? There appears to be too much play in the fork.
Thanks Guys!

Frankie the Fink

I don't think you can get it loose with the bellhousing in place but I've never pulled a tranny in my life so I'll let others speak up to confirm....

vetrod62

Once the trans is out, you should be able to push the fork inward and off the ball. It should come out through the trans bearing retainer hole in the bell housing. You may have to flip it while the fork is in the bell housing. The ball will thread out rearward once the trans is out.