Door jam rivets, 66 coupe
#1
Heel & Toe
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Door jam rivets, 66 coupe
The bottom door jam rivet on the driver's door has popped out and the door is now quite loose. I have purchased some weld studs I have heard about to fix the issue. Is there any trick to do this fix without taking the door off the hinges. At this point it looks like the only option. Any input appreciated.
#2
Melting Slicks
I had this same problem with my 65 and the doors had to come off to fix it. We took advantage of the situation and realigned them to perfection when they went back on.
#3
Safety Car
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Location: Clinton Township MI
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CD66Vett,
I did my driver's side this summer but I removed the door to do it (I need to replace the lower pin and bushing as well). I think it is dooable with the door mounted. You'll need extensions with your ratchet to tighten down those nuts (use lockwashers). You'll be impressed with the finished product.
I too took advantage of the door being off and ended up grinding down the lower hinge (didn't need any shims and she still was out at least a 1/6").
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
I did my driver's side this summer but I removed the door to do it (I need to replace the lower pin and bushing as well). I think it is dooable with the door mounted. You'll need extensions with your ratchet to tighten down those nuts (use lockwashers). You'll be impressed with the finished product.
I too took advantage of the door being off and ended up grinding down the lower hinge (didn't need any shims and she still was out at least a 1/6").
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
#4
Race Director
It's easiest to do this repair with the door off the car. On my repair I had to slightly overdrill the rivet hole so the flat head carriage bolts I used would go in. You have to remove the door panel in either case so it's very little additional work. If your door is quite loose I suspect you have several of these to install. Corvette doors are relatively light and not difficult to remove. But you have to excersize care in re-hanging them and adjusting them to prevent damage to pain.
#5
Le Mans Master
There've been some previous posts on this using a special flat headed bolt instead of rivets to correct the problem. Using the bolts I don't think the door has to come off, and it makes the job a LOT simpler than re-riveting would be. I know JohnZ has posted on this before, try doing a search would be my advice . . . .
#6
Safety Car
I am planning on doing this project very soon on my 65. I am using projection weld studs that have been machine to a lower profile to look like the rivet head. I bought them from a forum member about a year ago. I am planning on taking the door off. I will also take advantage of this to re align the door. I also thinking of filing the hinge to bring the door flush with the body.
#7
Safety Car
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CD66Vett,
Here's a few pics on my door rivets.
First pic are the 3 rivets that became loose over time. The next 3 are the protruded weld nut. Excellent product!
Jim
In God We Trust!
Here's a few pics on my door rivets.
First pic are the 3 rivets that became loose over time. The next 3 are the protruded weld nut. Excellent product!
Jim
In God We Trust!
Last edited by 6T5RUSH; 10-24-2010 at 11:07 PM.
#8
Race Director
I still think your going to find the existing hole in the door for the rivet shank is smaller than the threaded shank of the replacement bolt. I don't think you can get access to them to drill them larger without removing the door.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thanks
Last edited by hzz; 10-26-2010 at 10:32 PM.
#10
Safety Car
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hzz,
Scroll down to post #13 by JOHNZ. And, I mispoke. They're protruded weld studs. Believe it's McMasters-Carr:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-roadster.html
Good luck!
Regards,
Scroll down to post #13 by JOHNZ. And, I mispoke. They're protruded weld studs. Believe it's McMasters-Carr:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-roadster.html
Good luck!
Regards,
Last edited by 6T5RUSH; 10-26-2010 at 10:58 PM.
#11
Safety Car
I am getting ready to do this job. My question is: what is the best way to get the loose rivets out? A die grinder?
Amaizingly, my passanger door is the one that is loose. The driver's door is tight. Go figure.
Amaizingly, my passanger door is the one that is loose. The driver's door is tight. Go figure.
#12
Burning Brakes
I used these weld studs when I did repairs before painting. The studs worked great and really looked perfect when done. I used a little locktite to make sure they stayed tight. I found it easy to remove the loose rivets with a pair of wire cutters. Aluminum was soft and came off without any trouble. Paint was stripped by then so you may need to protect your paint with tape.
Joe
Joe
#13
Melting Slicks
hzz,
Scroll down to post #13 by JOHNZ. And, I mispoke. They're protruded weld studs. Believe it's McMasters-Carr:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-roadster.html
Good luck!
Regards,
Scroll down to post #13 by JOHNZ. And, I mispoke. They're protruded weld studs. Believe it's McMasters-Carr:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...-roadster.html
Good luck!
Regards,
#14
Le Mans Master
Still not a bad idea, just get someone here in the States to purchase a box & ship to you. Whadda ya think?
Several sizes available, McMaster Carr calls them "through-hole weld studs".
Several sizes available, McMaster Carr calls them "through-hole weld studs".
Last edited by Ron Miller; 10-28-2010 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Add McMaster Carr Terminoligy
#15
I also followed JohnZ's advice. My eyes and aim aren't worth a hoot, so I made a jig that would fit the head of the rivet with an 1/8" hole in the center
Here is a test I did to try out my idea, gives you a look at how it's done.
The hole drilled
I then drilled the hole to a size almost the diameter of the rivet, then I used a 3/8" drill to cut the head of the rivet off. Then used a punch to knock the rivet out
It was so easy to do that I replaced all rivets on sides and bottom of door (do 'em one at a time.) I was surprised at how loose the bottom were. If I had to do it again, I would go with a 3/4" length bolt to use flat washer, lock washer and nut. To the left in the last picture you can see the green bolt head. I also machined the **** off the backside of the bolt heads because I believe in time the **** will set further into the fiberglass and the bolts will loosen, but that's just me.
If you want the jig I made to center drill the hole, PM me your address and I'll send it to you.
CJ
Here is a test I did to try out my idea, gives you a look at how it's done.
The hole drilled
I then drilled the hole to a size almost the diameter of the rivet, then I used a 3/8" drill to cut the head of the rivet off. Then used a punch to knock the rivet out
It was so easy to do that I replaced all rivets on sides and bottom of door (do 'em one at a time.) I was surprised at how loose the bottom were. If I had to do it again, I would go with a 3/4" length bolt to use flat washer, lock washer and nut. To the left in the last picture you can see the green bolt head. I also machined the **** off the backside of the bolt heads because I believe in time the **** will set further into the fiberglass and the bolts will loosen, but that's just me.
If you want the jig I made to center drill the hole, PM me your address and I'll send it to you.
CJ
Last edited by 40ZR1; 10-29-2010 at 12:17 AM. Reason: can't read and spell
#17
Burning Brakes
My doors were completely gutted when I did this and it still was a little tough to get my arm all the way in there. I was able to remove the loose rivets from the outside and pop the remaining rivet plug into the door (easy enough to roll it out). I installed weld studs and used several socket extensions and a little tape to hold the nut/L-washer/flat washer in place on the end of the socket. A little tricky but I was able to make it happen. I would guess the regulator and windows would make it all that much more challenging.
Be careful not to damage the threads of the weld stud when you slip it into the hole. I did and then couldn’t get the nut started (while dangling on the end of all my extensions). I had to take the stud out, chase the threads and start over.
Joe
Be careful not to damage the threads of the weld stud when you slip it into the hole. I did and then couldn’t get the nut started (while dangling on the end of all my extensions). I had to take the stud out, chase the threads and start over.
Joe
#18
Here's a link to the parts if anyone is looking for them.
Part # 93865A230
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=9nc1t5
Part # 93865A230
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=9nc1t5
Last edited by Wilkinshc; 11-09-2010 at 04:41 PM.
#19
Safety Car
Just got done installing the new weld studs in my door. What a difference. The door is a lot more solid. Thanks to 40ZR1 for the excellent fixture to help drilling the old rivets out.
I did not have to gut my door. The way I did it was to put the nut on a long 1/4" extension and line it up with the hole from the old rivet. A helper guided the alignment and then started the stud into the nut. then i tightened everything up. It worked great. I did remove the door and lay it flat.
I did not have to gut my door. The way I did it was to put the nut on a long 1/4" extension and line it up with the hole from the old rivet. A helper guided the alignment and then started the stud into the nut. then i tightened everything up. It worked great. I did remove the door and lay it flat.
#20
North Of The Border, you can get them from the H. Paulin Company. Also branded as "Papco". Try your local auto supply or places like Indufast. From their catalog:
Also available from Spaenaur:
You know, I'm thinking I bought a box of 50 and have lots left over. If anybody needs a few I would be happy to throw some in an envelope and send them to you.
Also available from Spaenaur:
You know, I'm thinking I bought a box of 50 and have lots left over. If anybody needs a few I would be happy to throw some in an envelope and send them to you.