Grounding alternator
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Grounding alternator
I still can't figure this out.
I had to replace my alternator. It seems that the new ones don't have a ground terminal - My old one (also aftermarket) has a post for ground. My harness has a wire for it as well. This new unit has no visible ground terminal.
Are they grounded through the case? I have a three wire unit - I know what to do with the three wires (one main + wire, two wires to external voltage regulator) - how to ground this thing?
It's an aftermarket chrome unit from Tuff Stuff Performance. I could call them Monday but want to get this installed this weekend.
Found this illustration clearly showing a ground to the alternator
I had to replace my alternator. It seems that the new ones don't have a ground terminal - My old one (also aftermarket) has a post for ground. My harness has a wire for it as well. This new unit has no visible ground terminal.
Are they grounded through the case? I have a three wire unit - I know what to do with the three wires (one main + wire, two wires to external voltage regulator) - how to ground this thing?
It's an aftermarket chrome unit from Tuff Stuff Performance. I could call them Monday but want to get this installed this weekend.
Found this illustration clearly showing a ground to the alternator
Last edited by TJefferson2020; 10-30-2010 at 12:36 PM.
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
Only as a last resort - seems like I should be able to get an alternator that is like my other one...
Old aftermarket alternator (no marks or model/mfg on it...)
New alternator - Tuff Stuff Performance 7102NC - note different orientation
Note - I put that small nut on what looks like a tiny ground post - it didn't come with a nut, or instructions or a connector for the regulator. Seems kinda crappy to me.
I thought this would be simple....
New alternator - Tuff Stuff Performance 7102NC - note different orientation
Note - I put that small nut on what looks like a tiny ground post - it didn't come with a nut, or instructions or a connector for the regulator. Seems kinda crappy to me.
I thought this would be simple....
Last edited by TJefferson2020; 10-30-2010 at 01:18 PM.
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
Any idea why it's different? The orientation will force me to reroute wires and may require a smaller diameter belt. Hassle!
Last edited by TJefferson2020; 10-30-2010 at 01:13 PM.
#7
Le Mans Master
Different year alternators had minor variations due to mounting and other requirements, and the noted mount/ground tab is one of them. Your alternator has this threaded hole at the bottom (I can see it) and you should be able to pull enough wire to reach it.
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks! I have an email into the mfg too - we'll see if they respond.
#9
Le Mans Master
This is possible but maybe not. The hole on mine had been "buggered" FROM THE USE OF IMPROPER AND LATER METRIC THREADS for the first ~1/4" but a regular 5/16" x 18 bolt went in after I cleaned this out and got it past that point.
I had even bought a drill bit, tap, and helicoils for it (5/16" x 18) but never needed to use it once I got a trial bolt past the buggered portion. I did run a q-tip with vasaline in and out of the hole a bunch of times to catch the aluminum flakes/shavings to keep them out of the alternator's brushes and bearings.
I had even bought a drill bit, tap, and helicoils for it (5/16" x 18) but never needed to use it once I got a trial bolt past the buggered portion. I did run a q-tip with vasaline in and out of the hole a bunch of times to catch the aluminum flakes/shavings to keep them out of the alternator's brushes and bearings.
#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
This is possible but maybe not. The hole on mine had been "buggered" FROM THE USE OF IMPROPER AND LATER METRIC THREADS for the first ~1/4" but a regular 5/16" x 18 bolt went in after I cleaned this out and got it past that point.
I had even bought a drill bit, tap, and helicoils for it (5/16" x 18) but never needed to use it once I got a trial bolt past the buggered portion. I did run a q-tip with vasaline in and out of the hole a bunch of times to catch the aluminum flakes/shavings to keep them out of the alternator's brushes and bearings.
I had even bought a drill bit, tap, and helicoils for it (5/16" x 18) but never needed to use it once I got a trial bolt past the buggered portion. I did run a q-tip with vasaline in and out of the hole a bunch of times to catch the aluminum flakes/shavings to keep them out of the alternator's brushes and bearings.
I may run a tap into it once I confirm they sent me the right alternator. However, I know mfgs and distributors NEVER do that...
#11
Looks like an internally regulated alternator instead of an external.
#12
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#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks, all. A prime example of a 10 minute job taking hours. Don't you love old cars?
#14
Le Mans Master
Or it could be right.
These are all made over and it's just a matter of how they assemble it be it 1-wire, internal, or external regulation. Mine looks to be the same one (or very similar) and it was converted to a 1-wire.
#15
Looks like an internal regulator peeking through the vent holes in the back right side of the alt, not to mention the 2 wire terminals on the outer rim instead of the back of the case.
#16
It is an external regulated alt. The case is from the seldom used late external style. The case looks like an internal, but it is external. That type of case was only used for 1 or 2 years 71 and maybe 72. Mount the ground wire any where you can. Even one of the 4 bolts holding the alt together is ok. I have a small tab that is bolted to the alt by any one of the 4 alt bolts holding it together, and there is a threaded hole with a small bolt to use as a ground. Let me know if you want it. This tab is used on marine alts, and would work fine for you. Mark