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Crate engine too powerful?

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Old 12-22-2010, 10:23 AM
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Downdraft
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Default Crate engine too powerful?

Some advice,

I own a 1965 convertible with a 300 hp 327 in northern Italy. The upgrades are VBP front and rear suspension mods (front springs, composite rear spring, shocks, etc. I am running 8 inch C3 wheels with 235/70-15 tires.
My engine is the stock 327, matching numbers block. The Vette runs perfectly, in the last 5 years of ownership have only changed the oil, starts right up, very smooth. It needs gaskets though, leaks is several places, less than 1/2 quart per year. Rather than opening up a 45+ year engine I was thinking of going for a new crate engine (also because finding a mechanic with small block experience is not easy then there would be the down time in ordering parts, etc.

I received an offer for a 400 hp crate engine, my question is that with this new set up I am afraid that it will become too much like a race car, I like fast but fast with control, will I need to reinforce the frame? The rear end is a 336. I do not want a race car bout would appreciate some extra ponies.

This is the quoite below, I am afraid that it is too much for the old girl as is .... comments?

If it bears the U.R.E. logo, it is a top quality racing machine.
United Racing Engines LLC
Buckeye, AZ
1-800-533-8381
www.unitedracingengines.com

417 HP
421 Torque
Chevy 383 Stroker
Turnkey Engine Package with 100% Complete Option
(Designed specifically for comfortable street and off-road driving with pump gas)

Quote # 212103542G-11-S





Under the Christmas Featured Blowout Special the 417 HP Neck-Breaker Package will be discounted down to the exact same price as the 396 HP Package

The 417 Neck-Breaker Christmas Blowout Sale is running exactly 3 weeks (21 Days) from December 6th – December 27th
(Several times per year URE runs a Blowout Sales Special on a featured package, which right now is the 417 HP Package)

Christmas Featured Blowout Special

WOR 2008-2009 Champion Comments on his URE Engine
“Racing through the toughest deserts on the planet in the 2009 SCORE Baja 1000 our URE equipped class 8 off-road race truck did not miss a beat. With on demand power and torque at any rpm we were able to propel our near 6000 pound race truck through any obstacle that stood in our way. With outstanding performance and customer support, I would certainly choose URE.”
Mike Szlauko
2008-2009 WOR Champion



1-800-533-8381

Quote # 212103542G-11-S

The 417 Neck-Breaker Christmas Blowout Sale is running exactly 3 weeks (21 Days) from December 6th – December 27th
(Several times per year URE runs a Blowout Sales Special on a featured package, which right now is the 417 HP Package)

396 vs. 417

The 417 HP Neck-Breaker Package on the right is putting out a massive amount more HP and Torque off the line at 3000 rpms than the 396! Over 40 HP More!

396 HP 417 HP


IMPORTANT DYNO NOTE
Every engine is custom built to each customer’s customized selections. United Racing Engines guarantees in writing the Horse Power and Torque on each and every package it produces.*



1-800-533-8381

Quote # 212103542G-11-S

Components
(100% Brand New From Top to Bottom)


CUSTOMIZATION KEY: CUSTOM CHOICES AVAILABLE - CURRENT CUSTOM CHOICE (To change any selection just let your rep know at 1-800-533-8381)

1. Block - BRAND NEW CHEVY 4 BOLT MAIN BLOCK (United Racing Engines uses no seasoned blocks whatsoever – No Exceptions) (2 Piece Rear Main Seal customizable to 1 Piece)
2. Heads - FREE UPGRADE TO: ALUMINUM RACING HEADS 215cc INTAKE RUNNERS – 2.02”/1.60” Valves) (With Massive under the bowl work to maximize airflow, response and performance)
3. Intake Manifold - (DUAL PLANE – or – AIR GAP DUAL PLANE – or SINGLE PLANE)
4. Carburetor - URE CUSTOM JETTED EDELBROCK 750 CARBURETOR
5. Distributor - CHEVROLET V8 MALLORY HEI
6. Valve Covers - URE CUSTOM MADE DIE CAST ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS
7. Air Cleaner - (EDELBROCK ELITE EDITION BRUSHED ALUMINUM AIR CLEANER WITH EDELBROCK LOGO 4207 – or – EDELBROCK CHROME FINISH 1221 – or – CHROME WITH CHEVY EMBLEM – or – SILVER WITH BLUE & GREY CHEVY EMBLEM)
8. Water Pump - (ALUMINUM – or – PAINTED TO MATCH BLOCK) (LONG – or – SHORT WATER PUMP)
9. Fuel Pump - HOLLEY
10. Harmonic Balancer - PROCOMP 1045 STEEL DAMPNER (No cast iron dampners are used by U.R.E.)
11. Flexplate - SFI PRECISION
12. Pulleys - UPPER & LOWER CHROME (FOR LONG – or – SHORT WATER PUMP)
13. Gaskets - FEL-PRO
14. Oil Dipstick & Tube - CHROME GM
15. Timing Cover - BOWTIE GM PERFORMANCE PARTS TIMING COVER
16. Timing Pointer - CHROME TIMING POINTER
17. Wires - (BLACK – or – RED – or – YELLOW – or – BLUE)
18. Looms - (BLACK – or – RED – or – YELLOW – or – BLUE)
19. Spark Plugs - NGK PERFORMANCE
20. Pistons - HYPERUTECTIC PERFORMANCE PISTONS
21. Forged Rods - FORGED I BEAM RACING RODS
22. Rod Bolts - ARP 8740
23. Camshaft - CRANE
24. Valve Springs - CRANE
25. Lifters - CRANE (HYDRAULIC – or – SOLID)
26. Rockers - STAINLESS ROLLER PRECISION - 1.6 RATIO
27. Rings - SPEED PRO


1-800-533-8381

Quote # 212103542G-11-S
28. Bearings - KING ALLECULAR
29. Double Roller Timing Set - PRECISION TRUE ROLLER
30. Timing Cover - CHROME CHEVY PERFORMANCE BOWTIE
31. Gaskets - FEL PRO
32. Oil Pump - MELLING
33. Oil Pump Driveshaft - MELLING
34. Oil Pump Pickup Screen - MELLING
35. Seats - HARDENED SEATS
36. Brass Freeze Plugs - PIONEER
37. Pushrods - CHROME MOLY .080 WALL
38. Head Bolts - HP PRECISION
39. Harmonic Balancer - PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS
40. Oil Pan - (CHROME – or – PAINTED TO MATCH BLOCK)
41. Color of Block - (BLACK – or – CHEVY ORANGE – or – RED – or – MAROON – or – MIDNIGHT BLUE – or – DARK BLUE – or – ROYAL BLUE – or – LIGHT BLUE – or – DARK GREEN – or – LIME GREEN – or – CANARY YELLOW – or – CUSTOM PAINT MATCH) (To select a custom paint match just discuss it with your customer service rep at 1-800-533-8381)
Compression Ration Options: 9.5:1 Designed for 87 Octane Regular Unleaded – or – 9.7:1 Designed for 89 Octane Unleaded Plus – or – 9.9:1 Designed for 91 Octane Premium Unleaded – or – 10.3:1 Designed for 93 Octane Premium Unleaded – or – 11:1 Designed for 110 Octane Racing Fuel) (Discuss with your rep to Customize for free)



Idle Roughness: Smooth – or – Mild – or – Medium – or – Choppy – or – Rough – or – Very Rough – or – Extreme/Drag – or – Radical/Drag) (Discuss with your rep to Customize for free)



Stall Converter Options: Stock Converter – or – 2000 to 2500 Converter – or – 2500 to 2800 Converter – or – 2800 to 3000 Converter – or – 3000 to 3500 Converter – or – 3500 to 4000 Converter) (Discuss with your rep to Customize for free)

CUSTOMIZATION KEY: CUSTOM CHOICES AVAILABLE - CURRENT CUSTOM CHOICE (To change any selection just let your rep know at 1-800-533-8381)


Brand New 4 Bolt Main Block!
Fully Forged Rods!
Aluminum Racing Heads!

1-800-533-8381

Quote # 212103542G-11-S

417 HP 383 Stroker Package $5988.00

Discounts

Featured Special Discount to 442 HP Price (MPC – X79472) * -$500.00
Subtotal including additional discount $5488.00

Tax & Total

Upgraded to 3 Year 100,000 Mile Warranty ($399 Charge waived under Current Special) (FREE UPGRADE)
Sales Tax (N/A – Out of State Purchase)
Total $5488.00


Brand New 4 Bolt Main Block!
Fully Forged Rods!
Aluminum Racing Heads!
Old 12-22-2010, 10:32 AM
  #2  
Donny Brass
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your car will be fine with the added HP
Old 12-22-2010, 10:46 AM
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kellsdad
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In any drivetrain, the weakest link will be the first to go. I believe the weak link in your setup will be the tires, meaning the tires will break traction before you can break anything in your drivetrain. That's a good thing. If you start going to the drag strip and running racing tires, you might break something else. But for street use on street tires, the engine you are considering should not require strengthening of any other components.
Old 12-22-2010, 10:50 AM
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Mossy66
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Originally Posted by Donny Brass
your car will be fine with the added HP
I agree, that the car will be fine...I'm worried about your neck!
Old 12-22-2010, 11:03 AM
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Kerrmudgeon
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Should be no problem, providing the rest of the drive train is in good shape, like all the U-joints, transmission, rear end, wheel bearings etc. These things came with close to that horsepower from the factory. It'll depend on how much you beat on it, but you don't sound like that sort. Ask questions of other buyers from that company to ensured their reputation of a quality build. I can't imagine what the shipping $$ would be....

But, I gotta ask, if your happy with the current motor, why not just change a few gaskets, and throw some seal softener in it. (Leak seal added to oil). Or just the gaskets....it's not leaking very much really...
Old 12-22-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Donny Brass
your car will be fine with the added HP
Old 12-22-2010, 11:11 AM
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Mike Ward
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Peak HP and bags-o-torque from a dyno chart are impressive, but driveability in the real world is much more important. Watch out you don't end up with something that has bad street manners.
Old 12-22-2010, 12:05 PM
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One half quart per year?

Bet the new engine goes through more than that.
Old 12-22-2010, 12:06 PM
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firstgear
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Originally Posted by Mossy66
...I'm worried about your neck!
I would suggest getting a head rest and a HANS neck support device so that your neck will be ok.....
Old 12-22-2010, 01:29 PM
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I have a 383 stroker 450hp 450tq and no problems. It's faster than I need but fun to just JUMP ON IT once in awhile.
Old 12-22-2010, 01:42 PM
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I had a look at their website, no address, take care you're not getting scammed, I'm sure you're not, just saying.. been there
Old 12-22-2010, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by davidarborg
I had a look at their website, no address, take care you're not getting scammed, I'm sure you're not, just saying.. been there
Alot of places these days that you will know you are getting and will get what you have paid for here...
Old 12-22-2010, 02:20 PM
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Downdraft
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I wish to thank all of you for your comments, it's great to hear directly from owners. I surfed the net trying to find comments from this engine manufacturer (URE) but no luck. I do have freight and duty to consider so I am not looking for a $10,000 engine. Any suggestions for a good honest turn key 383? I don't need to win any races, its just that the stock 300 horse is somewhat "tame".
Old 12-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Downdraft
I wish to thank all of you for your comments, it's great to hear directly from owners. I surfed the net trying to find comments from this engine manufacturer (URE) but no luck. I do have freight and duty to consider so I am not looking for a $10,000 engine. Any suggestions for a good honest turn key 383? I don't need to win any races, its just that the stock 300 horse is somewhat "tame".
Ben Smeding can make you a nice 383, and he's an honest engine builder.

http://www.smedingperformance.com/
Old 12-22-2010, 02:44 PM
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That's a lot of money for a minor oil leak.... If 300hp is too mild for you and you have a couple of leaks, just do a cam swap, intake, carb, headers and reseal your engine with new gaskets and you'll be good to go... Beware the slippery slope however...
Old 12-22-2010, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kwkenuf
That's a lot of money for a minor oil leak.... If 300hp is too mild for you and you have a couple of leaks, just do a cam swap, intake, carb, headers and reseal your engine with new gaskets and you'll be good to go... Beware the slippery slope however...
Make that sucker a L79, or a L76, and change out that rear ratio to a 3:70...... I guarantee you will have a smile on your face when you put the pedal to the metal.
Old 12-22-2010, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kellsdad
In any drivetrain, the weakest link will be the first to go. I believe the weak link in your setup will be the tires, meaning the tires will break traction before you can break anything in your drivetrain. That's a good thing. If you start going to the drag strip and running racing tires, you might break something else. But for street use on street tires, the engine you are considering should not require strengthening of any other components.

My 427 makes 454 HP at the crank. It will spin 215/70R/15s in first gear, but that's about it. The crate motors you're looking at will be just fine. The only thing I've ever broken in this car was a clutch disk that threw out a damper spring. That was traceable to the bronze clutch pilot bushing wearing out so the clutch was rotating off center. Use a roller bearing and that will never happen to you.

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Old 12-22-2010, 05:20 PM
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Larry N. Johnson
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The 65 frames are plenty strong; they came w big blocks.

We are picking up a 500 HP 565 TQ 467 CI for our 65 Convert next month if all goes well.

The stock 65 trans and rear...if traction was available...might have issues.

We are getting a Tremec 600 5-speed for the tranny.

Still worried about the rear differential.

Brakes will be fine for normal street use.

Go with a proven reliable engine builder. Take no chances.

Look like this w orange vcalve covers:
Old 12-22-2010, 05:26 PM
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66since71
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Originally Posted by Downdraft
I do have freight and duty to consider so I am not looking for a $10,000 engine. Any suggestions for a good honest turn key 383? I don't need to win any races, its just that the stock 300 horse is somewhat "tame".
Due respect to the aftermarket builders, but how about a complete motor direct from GM? GMPP's ZZ383 should be a nice set up. If you want to do it in vintage dress (pre Vortec heads) consider a ZZ4 350.

The guys at GMPP will help you get the accessory drive and water pump right, too. They should also be able to help pick the right manifold for hood clearance. Scoggin Dickey is a big dealer for them and another info source.

Harry
Old 12-22-2010, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 66since71
Due respect to the aftermarket builders, but how about a complete motor direct from GM? GMPP's ZZ383 should be a nice set up. If you want to do it in vintage dress (pre Vortec heads) consider a ZZ4 350.

The guys at GMPP will help you get the accessory drive and water pump right, too. They should also be able to help pick the right manifold for hood clearance. Scoggin Dickey is a big dealer for them and another info source.

Harry
just got a ZZ4 myself to put in my 62

Bill


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