advice on the purchase of a '63 and a good story.
#1
advice on the purchase of a '63 and a good story.
Hello, New to this forum and to Corvettes although my father had one many years ago. I'm in a position to make an offer on a ’63 convertible and not sure where to start. I’ll tell you my story and hope you can give me some guidance. About ten years ago, a friend and coworker who knows I love to work on old cars and military vehicles told me about her ’63 corvette. She bought it new back in ’63 and used it as her daily driver for some time. After her kids came along she got another car and only drove it for fun. One of the kids, now grown up, took it out low on oil and the engine seized. They pulled the engine and took it to a local shop for a quote on rebuilding. With college costs coming, she never had it rebuilt and the car sat in the garage and the block was left at the shop. This is where I come into the story. I told her how she needed to get that block back and I told her I would help. I got the details on the VIN and what I should find on the block. The shop was still there and was told when I inquired that if they had it, it would be out in a semi trailer in the back. They let me search and after about twenty blocks, I found it! She had the shop check it and it was solid so it was rebuilt. Now she has the car with a rebuild short block and that’s how it has been for the last three years. She retired a year ago and when she visited the office for the holidays, she asked me if I wanted to buy the car. The car has sat for ten years and it looks good. Interior is in great shape and it looks like all the parts are in one place. She said the frame has a bad spot by the rear bumper and I remember seeing a rust hole. Now for my questions, What’s a fair price range for this car. What are some of the things I should look for? I’m going to see it again in a few days and I don’t remember the details. I know it’s a 327 and I believe an automatic. I would love to be able to complete my story by showing off the car in my garage!
#2
Burning Brakes
This is going to be a tough question for the guys here on the forum. You will want to certainly get much more detail and pictures to even start down this road with some very knowledgeable folks here. Although you do have a good start on what the car might be, start by gathering documentation if she has some.
http://www.myvintagecorvette.com/doc...0checklist.doc
http://www.myvintagecorvette.com/doc...0checklist.doc
#5
Team Owner
Even so - check out the rust spot on frame carefully and the birdcage as well...two items that can get you underwater price-wise very quickly.
#6
Le Mans Master
63
At the very least, find out what options came with the car. If it is an automatic, it may have P/W, P/S, P/B and A/C. If you have access to the original bill of sale, you can decode it and find out if has an optional small block 327. Keep us posted. Good luck. Jerry
#8
'63 update
Got to take a look at the '63 today and took some photos(link below). Has been sitting in the garage 20 years. 68,000 miles. Engine code F03IISC. Last seven of the VIN on the block. Took Photos of the trim tag (but not good ones) if anyone can help with that. Had the original white soft top replaced with a black one after someone cut it, has the hard top too. no power windows or locks. Auto transmission. I dug deep to see the bird cage after hearing how important it is and it was in great shape. Very little rust on one seam. The rest I could see was that nice green color. The frame is rusty and has a very crappy repair in the spot in front of the rear wheel. Frame will need a lot of work as well as all the lines and stuff. rear bumpers have some rust and one had a hole. Antenna broken off. She has a thick file full of everything that was done to it from the day she bought it. Never in a accident and looks like all the parts are there for the motor. We have a price in mind and would be interested in eveyones thoughts.
http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/BA232/
http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/BA232/
#10
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2005
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The problem with 10 is that she could get mid-high teens on CL in about 15 minutes. I am not saying I would pay that, just an unfortunate fact that someone would.
The rust is scary, real scary. Even if you reframe it yourself, figure 10K for that and parts to get it on the road. That would put you at 20K. This is a huge undertaking, I have done it, and it is not for the faint of heart.
63 AT roadster is about the least desireable midyear. Sorry, just the way it is.
I (more than most) know what it is like to get infatuated with a car in need of TLC.
Proceed with caution. If you can afford it, get a better one. If you can't, prepare to dig into a multi year project, and have 10 grand (or 15, or 20) extra at the ready.
my .02
#11
Le Mans Master
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[QUOTE=Tempus_Fugit;1576449435]This is a tough nut to crack.
The problem with 10 is that she could get mid-high teens on CL in about 15 minutes. I am not saying I would pay that, just an unfortunate fact that someone would.
The rust is scary, real scary. Even if you reframe it yourself, figure 10K for that and parts to get it on the road. That would put you at 20K. This is a huge undertaking, I have done it, and it is not for the faint of heart.
63 AT roadster is about the least desireable midyear. Sorry, just the way it is.
I (more than most) know what it is like to get infatuated with a car in need of TLC.
That is excellent advice, even from someone who lives near the Iron Range in northern Minnesota.
The auto is sort of a killer and, as Tempus indicated, the frame is a big liability. I would bet, in the final analysis, that it will have to be replaced, along with brake and fuel lines, tank, etc. If it were a SWC, I could see offering more but the convertible with a base engine/auto is pretty ordinary stuff and it is the stuff you can't see that may present a bigger problem. The story is great and thanks for sharing it with members, but $10K, as someone said, is where I would be on this.
I think the question to ask is: what is a nice low mile driver, equipped with these options, worth in today's market? I would think somewhere in the low $30s--tops.
The problem with 10 is that she could get mid-high teens on CL in about 15 minutes. I am not saying I would pay that, just an unfortunate fact that someone would.
The rust is scary, real scary. Even if you reframe it yourself, figure 10K for that and parts to get it on the road. That would put you at 20K. This is a huge undertaking, I have done it, and it is not for the faint of heart.
63 AT roadster is about the least desireable midyear. Sorry, just the way it is.
I (more than most) know what it is like to get infatuated with a car in need of TLC.
That is excellent advice, even from someone who lives near the Iron Range in northern Minnesota.
The auto is sort of a killer and, as Tempus indicated, the frame is a big liability. I would bet, in the final analysis, that it will have to be replaced, along with brake and fuel lines, tank, etc. If it were a SWC, I could see offering more but the convertible with a base engine/auto is pretty ordinary stuff and it is the stuff you can't see that may present a bigger problem. The story is great and thanks for sharing it with members, but $10K, as someone said, is where I would be on this.
I think the question to ask is: what is a nice low mile driver, equipped with these options, worth in today's market? I would think somewhere in the low $30s--tops.
#12
Melting Slicks
Hello
I will give you my .02 worth...This car looks like it was not abused (automatics are what "old" people bought in the day) However, there is ALOT of rust up front (radiator core support is rotted)..Im going to say you more than likely have rust in the birdcage (metal skeleton) This can be a very very $$$ fix. If you can get her 10k you probably dump another 10k to 20k make her "proper" (runs and safe to drive)
Remenber 63 Corvette have alot of "one year items only"...Ask me how I know? Those items can make you a very poor man..
I would have a person with OLD Corvette knowledge look at the car...
Good luck
I will give you my .02 worth...This car looks like it was not abused (automatics are what "old" people bought in the day) However, there is ALOT of rust up front (radiator core support is rotted)..Im going to say you more than likely have rust in the birdcage (metal skeleton) This can be a very very $$$ fix. If you can get her 10k you probably dump another 10k to 20k make her "proper" (runs and safe to drive)
Remenber 63 Corvette have alot of "one year items only"...Ask me how I know? Those items can make you a very poor man..
I would have a person with OLD Corvette knowledge look at the car...
Good luck
#13
Race Director
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
I think the subject of rust on this car can expand considerably. Look at the radiator support frame....well eaten by rust. Move carefully on this car and 10-12K would be the most with it's documentation. Dennis
#14
Burning Brakes
#15
Safety Car
#16
Thanks guys, I've been through projects like this and I know the time involved and all the hidden costs. I suspect that it will be even more with the word Corvette attached. I know she has turned down offers of more than 12,000 and just from seeing what parts cars go for, I thought it would be worth more. I'm going to give this some thought and do a little research. I'll keep you up to date.
#17
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
The question is - what is the right price TO YOU? If it's just a car and money is a factor, that's one scenario. If it has some special meaning to you and you are willing to spend more than most guys think it's worth, that's your call too. There are many of us who have or would spend way more on a given car than it is "worth" due to some special circumstance. If - due to the story, the history, the looks, whatever - this is the car for you, and you know full well you could buy another in better shape but still want this one - go for it!
#18
The hardtop alone is worth a couple of grand.......what is lurking in the bird cage would concern me. Compared to other "barn finds" you see on the Forum, looks pretty clean (other than the frame).
#19
Safety Car
The good news is it is RED / RED, and coded such on the trim tag. 490M means Red vinyl with U65, or the rare AM Radio. Early 63's only had the AM radio.
The car is a two top car, built 3rd week of November 1962. Your vin number is somewhere around 3625, therefore an eraly production car. The 63 production history is very interesting if you get into it. There were over 90 production changes thruout the year.
NEVER HIT BODY........EXCELLENT
You have all the original driveline parts for what appears to be a 250hp base engine car(3892 were made) and Powerglide (2621 total, 1116 with the 250hp engine), so the options are not 'rare'.
With only 63000 miles, the car may not be that worn........except for the obvious rust. Great dash cluster. Maybe the interior and paint can be used as is.
THE BAD:
THE CHASSIS. THE CAR NEEDS A FRAME, PERIOD. Don't think you car fix this one. I would figure $10000 by the time you are done for just the frame and parts.
I have seen rolling chassis for sale where people are doing PRO-STREET conversions for 6500-8500, with bare chassis for 4500-6500.
If you want to convert the car to a PRO-Street, the sky is the limit.
I agree with other CF Members.......$10000 is a "Very" fair price.
I like automatics, as they were never abused and make great cruisers today. Body off NCRS Restored however, the car's value would be in the 45-55 range, and you would have probably invested at least that much plus two years of your free labor, so if you like the challange......go for it and save another great car.
The car is a two top car, built 3rd week of November 1962. Your vin number is somewhere around 3625, therefore an eraly production car. The 63 production history is very interesting if you get into it. There were over 90 production changes thruout the year.
NEVER HIT BODY........EXCELLENT
You have all the original driveline parts for what appears to be a 250hp base engine car(3892 were made) and Powerglide (2621 total, 1116 with the 250hp engine), so the options are not 'rare'.
With only 63000 miles, the car may not be that worn........except for the obvious rust. Great dash cluster. Maybe the interior and paint can be used as is.
THE BAD:
THE CHASSIS. THE CAR NEEDS A FRAME, PERIOD. Don't think you car fix this one. I would figure $10000 by the time you are done for just the frame and parts.
I have seen rolling chassis for sale where people are doing PRO-STREET conversions for 6500-8500, with bare chassis for 4500-6500.
If you want to convert the car to a PRO-Street, the sky is the limit.
I agree with other CF Members.......$10000 is a "Very" fair price.
I like automatics, as they were never abused and make great cruisers today. Body off NCRS Restored however, the car's value would be in the 45-55 range, and you would have probably invested at least that much plus two years of your free labor, so if you like the challange......go for it and save another great car.
Last edited by jimgessner; 01-08-2011 at 11:04 AM.
#20
Burning Brakes
In this economy, I think she should let you have it for $10,000 if she wants to save this car and have the Corvette Gods look kindly on her. Give her $15,000 if you want the good Karma, and if you want to share it, make it $12,500. If you're not up to the work, you can find a nice one these days for under 30K and you won't have to settle for a 63 Vert.