Etz

Trying to pre lube a 327 that has been sitting for 5 years. How long should it take to get oil out of the push rods?

Scott Marzahl

Are you using a drill with the prelube tool, if so about 15 seconds. You need to rotate engine by hand to get both sides.

Etz

I am using a drill. I have let it run for 1-2 min at a time and I have nothing.Good pressure and the drill even starts to drag as if it deadheading because of the pressure. I have spun the engine over but have got nothing.

Scott Marzahl

Are you using fresh oil, pull out a pushrod and see if you can blow through it.

larrywalk

Make sure there's a distributor body (or equivalent) in place to force the oil into the oil galleries. If the lower portion (which looks like a spool) is missing, oil won't be forced into the lifter galleries - it will just escape back to the pan.

Scott Marzahl

To reiterate my first question are you using a prelube tool that the drill spins or what are you using to couple to the oil pump shaft. As Larry stated above, you need to use either a special tool or old distributor and make sure it is seated all the way down on the block to plug the oil galleys.

JohnZ

The tool below the distributor is what you need - note the spool at the bottom; if you don't have the spool, you won't get any oil pressure in the lifter galleries.

Etz

I have actually used both. An old distributor modified to prelube and the tool shown in the picture. Someone mentioned making sure the push rods were clear. I could see one or two plugged, but not all. I pulled the engine a few years ago to paint the car. It ran fine then and had been stored indoors. I will try again with a higher torque drill.

62Jeff

You aren't by chance running the drill backwards are you?

Edit: Never mind, you said you have good pressure.

mscaggs

This is pretty interesting...

midyearvette

wow!

Westlotorn

Good Video, they took the time to elaborate on the mistakes. Plan for ventilation, cooling fans should be set up to go in advance. Once the engine is warm double check all the radiator and heater hose clamps. They will need an extra tightening once the hoses reach temp. Watch the temp and oil pressure very close while breaking in the cam. If necessary a garden hose misting the radiator can drop temp quickly but the fan will pull this all over your clean engine and car. Easier to clean up this mess than pull a new engine back out due to overheat. Be careful and good luck. Hope it runs great!!

JohnZ

When the engine-start video ends, you'll find the body drop session for that car in the other titles across the bottom of the screen. It Top-Flighted first time out.

Etz

Hooked a starter it and spun it while pre-lubing. Finally got some oil up top, but found another issue. Check out the video. Not sure what happened to it or how long it was that way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx3qdzEpnHM

62Jeff

Ummmm, yeah, that ain't right! Good thing you found it. I bet at some point the engine was dropped on it's nose, damaging the balancer and possibly the crank.

JohnZ

Crank snout looks OK, as the pulleys and balancer hub are running true, but the inertia ring isn't; time to replace the balancer or have it rebuilt.

rongold

I don't think it was dropped---Take a close look at the video--The outer ring on the balancer is wobbling, but the pulleys are straight as an arrow. The pulleys bolt to the balancer hub which is evidently ok and true. It looks like the balancer outer ring is cocked on the hub.

Etz

That's what I was thinking

larrywalk

Crank is ok and the pulleys run true - time for another balancer!

62Jeff

I was thinking that if it were dropped on the nose, before the pulleys were installed, it would damage the balancer as shown, but also possibly push the crank into the block to damage thrust surfaces. When I reference crank damage, it is that to which I was referring, not a bent crank snout.