best way to dent a header for clearance once mounted?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
best way to dent a header for clearance once mounted?
hi guys.. i have a *slight* clearance issue between a header primary on hooker long tubes and a steering u-joint. it is so slight that it only touches occassionally.
obviously the headers are mounted plus they are coated. i really don't want to pull them off the car. i can pull the steering shaft easily.
what is the best way to dent / clearance the pipe? my concern is too much banging could crack the pipe or the weld at the flange less than 12" away from the area of concern. i have no other experience with denting headers - are they relatively mallable?
obviously the headers are mounted plus they are coated. i really don't want to pull them off the car. i can pull the steering shaft easily.
what is the best way to dent / clearance the pipe? my concern is too much banging could crack the pipe or the weld at the flange less than 12" away from the area of concern. i have no other experience with denting headers - are they relatively mallable?
#2
Drifting
hi guys.. i have a *slight* clearance issue between a header primary on hooker long tubes and a steering u-joint. it is so slight that it only touches occassionally.
obviously the headers are mounted plus they are coated. i really don't want to pull them off the car. i can pull the steering shaft easily.
what is the best way to dent / clearance the pipe? my concern is too much banging could crack the pipe or the weld at the flange less than 12" away from the area of concern. i have no other experience with denting headers - are they relatively mallable?
obviously the headers are mounted plus they are coated. i really don't want to pull them off the car. i can pull the steering shaft easily.
what is the best way to dent / clearance the pipe? my concern is too much banging could crack the pipe or the weld at the flange less than 12" away from the area of concern. i have no other experience with denting headers - are they relatively mallable?
#3
Instructor
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Just a thought, if you have the original rag joint, then using a Borgenson joint will likely give you the clearance you need; as it is half the diameter of the rag joint. Borgensons are used on the Steeroids kits and their cousins.
#6
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#7
I would imagine it might be hard to get a good swing with a hammer and socket being down in the frame and all. It would be best to remove the header to do the job. However, I have done this on one of my cars by using some heavy gauge round pipe, cutting off a piece and a air hammer. Drill a hole on one side of the pipe to fit a flattened chisel bit in to it and place against the header, putting a shop towel betwen the pipe and header and give it a short burst or two. It will do it, just go slow and hold to everything as you go. Good luck.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Fail
FAIL!
the socket and hammer was working, the pipe was much softer than i realized so it appeared it would be quick work to make the dent and clearance i needed..
well go figure, the place i needed to clearance, had been welded together at that exact spot and ground down to smooth it out before ceramic coating. thus thin weld and now a hole/crack in my primary tube.
i'm going to have to pull the header, cut a section of pipe out and weld one routed for more clearance back in and then have them re-coated. joy. anyone recommend a good exhaust shop in tampa?
the socket and hammer was working, the pipe was much softer than i realized so it appeared it would be quick work to make the dent and clearance i needed..
well go figure, the place i needed to clearance, had been welded together at that exact spot and ground down to smooth it out before ceramic coating. thus thin weld and now a hole/crack in my primary tube.
i'm going to have to pull the header, cut a section of pipe out and weld one routed for more clearance back in and then have them re-coated. joy. anyone recommend a good exhaust shop in tampa?
#10
Drifting
FAIL!
the socket and hammer was working, the pipe was much softer than i realized so it appeared it would be quick work to make the dent and clearance i needed..
well go figure, the place i needed to clearance, had been welded together at that exact spot and ground down to smooth it out before ceramic coating. thus thin weld and now a hole/crack in my primary tube.
i'm going to have to pull the header, cut a section of pipe out and weld one routed for more clearance back in and then have them re-coated. joy. anyone recommend a good exhaust shop in tampa?
the socket and hammer was working, the pipe was much softer than i realized so it appeared it would be quick work to make the dent and clearance i needed..
well go figure, the place i needed to clearance, had been welded together at that exact spot and ground down to smooth it out before ceramic coating. thus thin weld and now a hole/crack in my primary tube.
i'm going to have to pull the header, cut a section of pipe out and weld one routed for more clearance back in and then have them re-coated. joy. anyone recommend a good exhaust shop in tampa?
It isn't an exhaust shop, but Kirt at S&S Welding on North Parsons (between MLK and Highway 92) is an excellent welder and does exhaust and turbo work as well as other performance oriented work. He is good with MIG and TIG. (813) 952-7581. Tell him Phil V said to call. Good luck.
#11
Melting Slicks
I will assume that you're talking '64...
Had this problem with Hooker Super Comps on my '65, but solved it by using the lower half of a '67 rag joint. The '67's lower coupling is shorter and moves the rag about an inch closer to the steering box and gains more clearance from the header tube from the rag and its metal shields.
Had this problem with Hooker Super Comps on my '65, but solved it by using the lower half of a '67 rag joint. The '67's lower coupling is shorter and moves the rag about an inch closer to the steering box and gains more clearance from the header tube from the rag and its metal shields.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Vogie, thanks for the lead.. I also got a lead for Pro Fab Racing in Thonotosassa .. I got the header off tonight and am gonna head over there in the morning.. this thing needs more than a weld, I gotta have a new piece of primary custom bent and then welded in, and then re-coat ceramic the whole thing. I found 3 other holes around weld areas, that were there before my attempt to dent the header. can see the tell-tale soot.
Hope this doesn't cost me too much!
Hope this doesn't cost me too much!
#13
Drifting
Vogie, thanks for the lead.. I also got a lead for Pro Fab Racing in Thonotosassa .. I got the header off tonight and am gonna head over there in the morning.. this thing needs more than a weld, I gotta have a new piece of primary custom bent and then welded in, and then re-coat ceramic the whole thing. I found 3 other holes around weld areas, that were there before my attempt to dent the header. can see the tell-tale soot.
Hope this doesn't cost me too much!
Hope this doesn't cost me too much!
#14
Drifting
If the shop you have selected doesn't want to try, Kirt is near exit 10 (Thonotosassa). South to 92. East to the Shell station (Parsons) South a couple of miles max. Whoever you choose. Good luck.
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Vogie,
I ended up taking the pipes to Kirt afterall, the other shop was too backed up. I did not mention you, but if you talk to him feel free to let him know you pointed me there as well. Matt at pro fab recommended him as well.
He did not have the tubes in stock, but hopefully early this week. Once he tack welds them in, I'll pick 'em up and test fit them on the car and then take them back. The down time on the car is killing me already, I missed going over to old town to meet up with Mike C. tonight. I suppose I'll use the time to get other stuff done on the car, like touch up the steering column and dash with some krylon for starters.
-mikey
I ended up taking the pipes to Kirt afterall, the other shop was too backed up. I did not mention you, but if you talk to him feel free to let him know you pointed me there as well. Matt at pro fab recommended him as well.
He did not have the tubes in stock, but hopefully early this week. Once he tack welds them in, I'll pick 'em up and test fit them on the car and then take them back. The down time on the car is killing me already, I missed going over to old town to meet up with Mike C. tonight. I suppose I'll use the time to get other stuff done on the car, like touch up the steering column and dash with some krylon for starters.
-mikey