Carb advice - 1966 - Stock 327
#21
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Thank you for explaining John!
I'm finding mixed responses regarding the results when doing a direct swap with an edelbrock 1406 / Holley street avenger. Can I expect both of these to be eligible replacements, or do I need to worry about fitting, clearance, etc..?
I'm finding mixed responses regarding the results when doing a direct swap with an edelbrock 1406 / Holley street avenger. Can I expect both of these to be eligible replacements, or do I need to worry about fitting, clearance, etc..?
#22
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Your fuel line will need modification for the side inlet on the Edelbrock and you will need a different air filter base, possibly a "drop base" type due to the carb opening being larger. Not sure if differences exist with the Holley. Dennis
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Hope this isn't OT but where can I get those plugs to plug the hot slot holes that John shows? Can they be installed without removing the intake? Thanks. Dave
#28
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Depends on the casting. Some will accept 7/16" steel cup plugs, some have slightly larger holes and need to be tapped 1/4" NPT and use allen-head 1/4" NPT thread plugs.
#30
My 1966 327 275HP has a carter AVS that leaks and runs terribly the base is eaten away due a previous owner not putting the SS heat shield back on. I want to replace the Carter with an Edelbrock 1406 or
Edelbrock Thunder AVS series 1805. I have heard the 1805 is a closer match to the carter AVS that is currently on the car. Does anyone have an opinion on which is better? Which fits better? Will the stock air cleaner fix either carb? I have seen some other posts that talk about the Edelbrook 1406 Replacement and they all refer to the hassle of dealing with the Electric choke. What hassle is there? Don't you just find a switched 12v source (like the windshield washer motor)?
What is the FelPro Part number for the SS Insulator that goes under the carburator? I have looked and looked and all I find is the Quadrajet one.
Thanks
Edelbrock Thunder AVS series 1805. I have heard the 1805 is a closer match to the carter AVS that is currently on the car. Does anyone have an opinion on which is better? Which fits better? Will the stock air cleaner fix either carb? I have seen some other posts that talk about the Edelbrook 1406 Replacement and they all refer to the hassle of dealing with the Electric choke. What hassle is there? Don't you just find a switched 12v source (like the windshield washer motor)?
What is the FelPro Part number for the SS Insulator that goes under the carburator? I have looked and looked and all I find is the Quadrajet one.
Thanks
#31
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My 1966 327 275HP has a carter AVS that leaks and runs terribly the base is eaten away due a previous owner not putting the SS heat shield back on. I want to replace the Carter with an Edelbrock 1406 or
Edelbrock Thunder AVS series 1805. I have heard the 1805 is a closer match to the carter AVS that is currently on the car. Does anyone have an opinion on which is better? Which fits better? Will the stock air cleaner fix either carb? I have seen some other posts that talk about the Edelbrook 1406 Replacement and they all refer to the hassle of dealing with the Electric choke. What hassle is there? Don't you just find a switched 12v source (like the windshield washer motor)?
What is the FelPro Part number for the SS Insulator that goes under the carburator? I have looked and looked and all I find is the Quadrajet one.
Thanks
Edelbrock Thunder AVS series 1805. I have heard the 1805 is a closer match to the carter AVS that is currently on the car. Does anyone have an opinion on which is better? Which fits better? Will the stock air cleaner fix either carb? I have seen some other posts that talk about the Edelbrook 1406 Replacement and they all refer to the hassle of dealing with the Electric choke. What hassle is there? Don't you just find a switched 12v source (like the windshield washer motor)?
What is the FelPro Part number for the SS Insulator that goes under the carburator? I have looked and looked and all I find is the Quadrajet one.
Thanks
#33
Instructor
7/16" plugs
Also noticed that the insulated gasket is placed on the manifold, and base gasket is located where insulated should be, maybe this was their way of blocking off passeges? Any thoughts are appreciated.
#34
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John Z, I'm sure your probably tired of this subject, but, I must ask. Have a '64 300hp and will be removing the carb for a look see. Would like to have a couple plugs on hand if this hasn't been done, seems as though locating 7/16" plugs are kind of ellusive, any suggustions?
Also noticed that the insulated gasket is placed on the manifold, and base gasket is located where insulated should be, maybe this was their way of blocking off passeges? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Also noticed that the insulated gasket is placed on the manifold, and base gasket is located where insulated should be, maybe this was their way of blocking off passeges? Any thoughts are appreciated.
#35
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good advice, i always recommend the afb's over holleys , if there is no hood clearance issue....for competition though, holleys are infinitely more tuneable
for the street, you are eliminating about 18 potential fuel leaks by choosing the afb over the holley....jmo.....
for the street, you are eliminating about 18 potential fuel leaks by choosing the afb over the holley....jmo.....
Dan
#36
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John Z, I'm sure your probably tired of this subject, but, I must ask. Have a '64 300hp and will be removing the carb for a look see. Would like to have a couple plugs on hand if this hasn't been done, seems as though locating 7/16" plugs are kind of ellusive, any suggustions?
Also noticed that the insulated gasket is placed on the manifold, and base gasket is located where insulated should be, maybe this was their way of blocking off passeges? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Also noticed that the insulated gasket is placed on the manifold, and base gasket is located where insulated should be, maybe this was their way of blocking off passeges? Any thoughts are appreciated.
From the manifold up, you should have gasket, insulator, stainless baffle, then carburetor; the gasket and insulator have the holes and slot, and the stainless baffle doesn't.
#37
I used the 7/16 steel cups. Dorman part number 555-002. My Carquest shop charged $.79 per plug plus tax. Saw a bunch online. was gonna buy two for $5.69 each. Would have been a mistake....10 in a bag! Can also try Amazon, EBay, Advanced Auto, etc.
At first it looked like the cap was way too big for the opening. Then I took a 7/16 drill bit to the port and surprisingly carbon started to come off the sides. While drilling had a vac inhaling the chips. Afterwards, I took a wire brush and did some more cleaning of the port. Then, the permetex, I used the liquid on the brush and persuaded the caps into the holes. Was a good tight fit!
Cheers!
#38
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When It's over 80 outside and you turn off the car the engine heat vaporizes the gas in the float bowls. It's a little hard starting, really no big deal, what I hate is the gas smell. I have fought this for years. I'm positive that I have no leaks and my vented gas cap is operating fine. Cooler temps no issues, but I live I the desert
Go to the Holley web site, they know 'their' carbs. You can send them a email and they will make a recommendation.
If you insist on changing to a different carb, the Eldebrock AFB, formally Carter, will provide better mileage and great street performance.
I'll make you a deal for the original Holley if you are going to get rid of it. I have a few (10 or 12) of both Holleys and AFBs I have ran over the years. I'm not real smart, but I have learned the hard way over the last 1/2 century and more.
#39
Instructor
Great info in this old thread! My 66 has been sitting for a couple years and does not run. Biggest problem is that when I do get it started and running it will stall as soon as I touch the gas pedal. The Accelerator pump is not squirting fuel. I'm assuming the entire thing is just gummed up from sitting for so long, but I'm looking at doing a carburetor replacement rather than rebuild the old one. It's already been rebuilt a couple times, and I don't have much patience! Would like to just bolt on something reliable that doesn't require much of a conversion regarding choke etc.
#40
Instructor
Two other things to consider. Both the 300 and 350hp use the same carburetor (3367), and both intake manifolds use a divorced choke with a manifold-mounted thermostatic control; if you block off the crossover passages from the heads to the intake, the choke won't work (and you'll have to gut or wire open the heat riser valve). Also, on the 300hp with the iron intake, the carb pad has a "hot-slot" that you'll need to plug at both ends so it doesn't heat up the carb so much and boil the fuel in the float bowls (you can plug the hot-slot holes and still maintain the automatic choke operation if you leave the crossover passages open - they only heat the bottom of the plenum floor, not the carburetor).