New engine for my '62
06-21-2011, 09:41 AM
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New engine for my '62
Greetings to all. My first post here. My Dad died in December, and the '62 Corvette that has been in the barn all these years, waiting for someone to love it, is now mine. It needs a lot of work, but the car is actually in pretty good shape.
However, the car has no engine. In going through paperwork, I was able to track down the guy my Dad bought the car from, who was at least the second owner. He told me that the car did not have the original engine in it when he bought it in Jackson, Mississippi in 1978.
My Dad had gathered three different blocks, along with a few other parts, I'm sure intending to work on it someday, but he never got the chance to put it all together. I am planning to restore the car, not to 100% show condition, but as a good looking driver.
Below is what I have gathered to date, plus what I am proposing to use in my new engine. You will hopefully see that I have already spent quite a bit of time researching this project, and I know that there is a lot more to do. Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance for your help.
1962 Corvette Engine Specifications
Goal: To build a high performance 327 engine for a 1962 Corvette, using period correct parts combined with modern technology, to produce 340 plus horsepower and reasonable driveability using premium pump gasoline. I want this engine to be bulletproof, and capable of not only getting down the street smartly while still behaving, but maybe even taking a trip or two down the strip.
My car’s VIN is 20867S100189, indicating that it was built on the 14th or 15th day of production in August of 1961.
*Here are the parts that I already have:
Engine Block
– GM 327 small journal - two-bolt mains - Casting Number 3782870 – Engine Code F0815RF
This block is the correct casting number for 1962 with fuel injection. I looked into going that route with the rebuild, but there is no way I can afford it at this point.
Cylinder Heads
- 1962 GM “Camel Hump” - Casting Number 3782461X – Dated K-17-62 AND K-19-62
- Cut for 2.020” intake valves and 1.600” exhaust valves. These heads are complete with all new valves, springs, seals, guides, etc.
Intake Manifold
-1962 GM Aluminum – Casting Number 3795397
-Original GM manifold in excellent condition with correct casting number for 1962.
Carburetor
-1962 Carter AFB 3269s
-Dated G1/July 1961 – Main Body Number 1466 – First design main body casting produced for the first production run of 1962 Corvettes.
Camshaft
-Sealed Power CS113R with Sealed Power AT992 solid lifters.
-This is a new cam and lifter combination which is an exact reproduction of the original.
*These are the parts that I am proposing to use:
Crankshaft
-Scat 4340 standard weight forged crank – 3.250” stroke-Part Number 4-350-3250-5700
Connecting Rods
-Scat Premium Pro Comp 4340 Forged I-Beam Rods – Part Number 2-ICR5700-7/16
-Full float bushings.
-APR2000 rod bolt upgrade.
Pistons
-Wiseco Pro-Tru Forged Domed Pistons .030 oversize – Part Number PT04H3
-Set comes complete with Hastings Hi-Tensile plasma rings, Chrome Moly wrist pins and Spire loxs.
Pushrods
-Comp Cams Magnum Pushrods – Part Number 7372-16
-5/16 diameter with one-piece body and 5/16 oil-through formed tip.
Rocker Arms
-Comp Cams High Energy Rocker Arms – Part Number 1212-16
-For 3/16 stud and compatible with guide plates.
- 1.5 ratio.
Gaskets
-Fel-Pro Small Block Chevy Performance Gasket Set – Part Number 3442802
Cam Bearings
-Clevite 77 – Part Number SH287S
Rod Bearings
-Clevite 77 H-Series – Part Number CB745H
Main Bearings
-Clevite 77 H-Series – Part Number MS429H
However, the car has no engine. In going through paperwork, I was able to track down the guy my Dad bought the car from, who was at least the second owner. He told me that the car did not have the original engine in it when he bought it in Jackson, Mississippi in 1978.
My Dad had gathered three different blocks, along with a few other parts, I'm sure intending to work on it someday, but he never got the chance to put it all together. I am planning to restore the car, not to 100% show condition, but as a good looking driver.
Below is what I have gathered to date, plus what I am proposing to use in my new engine. You will hopefully see that I have already spent quite a bit of time researching this project, and I know that there is a lot more to do. Please let me know what you think. Thanks in advance for your help.
1962 Corvette Engine Specifications
Goal: To build a high performance 327 engine for a 1962 Corvette, using period correct parts combined with modern technology, to produce 340 plus horsepower and reasonable driveability using premium pump gasoline. I want this engine to be bulletproof, and capable of not only getting down the street smartly while still behaving, but maybe even taking a trip or two down the strip.
My car’s VIN is 20867S100189, indicating that it was built on the 14th or 15th day of production in August of 1961.
*Here are the parts that I already have:
Engine Block
– GM 327 small journal - two-bolt mains - Casting Number 3782870 – Engine Code F0815RF
This block is the correct casting number for 1962 with fuel injection. I looked into going that route with the rebuild, but there is no way I can afford it at this point.
Cylinder Heads
- 1962 GM “Camel Hump” - Casting Number 3782461X – Dated K-17-62 AND K-19-62
- Cut for 2.020” intake valves and 1.600” exhaust valves. These heads are complete with all new valves, springs, seals, guides, etc.
Intake Manifold
-1962 GM Aluminum – Casting Number 3795397
-Original GM manifold in excellent condition with correct casting number for 1962.
Carburetor
-1962 Carter AFB 3269s
-Dated G1/July 1961 – Main Body Number 1466 – First design main body casting produced for the first production run of 1962 Corvettes.
Camshaft
-Sealed Power CS113R with Sealed Power AT992 solid lifters.
-This is a new cam and lifter combination which is an exact reproduction of the original.
*These are the parts that I am proposing to use:
Crankshaft
-Scat 4340 standard weight forged crank – 3.250” stroke-Part Number 4-350-3250-5700
Connecting Rods
-Scat Premium Pro Comp 4340 Forged I-Beam Rods – Part Number 2-ICR5700-7/16
-Full float bushings.
-APR2000 rod bolt upgrade.
Pistons
-Wiseco Pro-Tru Forged Domed Pistons .030 oversize – Part Number PT04H3
-Set comes complete with Hastings Hi-Tensile plasma rings, Chrome Moly wrist pins and Spire loxs.
Pushrods
-Comp Cams Magnum Pushrods – Part Number 7372-16
-5/16 diameter with one-piece body and 5/16 oil-through formed tip.
Rocker Arms
-Comp Cams High Energy Rocker Arms – Part Number 1212-16
-For 3/16 stud and compatible with guide plates.
- 1.5 ratio.
Gaskets
-Fel-Pro Small Block Chevy Performance Gasket Set – Part Number 3442802
Cam Bearings
-Clevite 77 – Part Number SH287S
Rod Bearings
-Clevite 77 H-Series – Part Number CB745H
Main Bearings
-Clevite 77 H-Series – Part Number MS429H
Last edited by BassShifter21; 06-29-2011 at 10:10 AM.
06-21-2011, 10:02 AM
#2
First, welcome to the Forum. Sounds like you're in the right place.
Second, we're very sorry to hear about your dad and we're glad you're picking up his torch for him.
Third, it does indeed look like you've done your homework and it appears to be a reasonable build. You'll get a few opinions / suggestions on it here.
Second, we're very sorry to hear about your dad and we're glad you're picking up his torch for him.
Third, it does indeed look like you've done your homework and it appears to be a reasonable build. You'll get a few opinions / suggestions on it here.
06-21-2011, 10:37 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Ditto the first responce, Welcome and you are on the right track. A couple notes, there are many 327 crankshafts available and the OEM was a forged crank made of great quality steel if one is available to you I would stay with the stock crank. Don't worry if it needs to be turned to 20 or 30 under, bearings are available all the way to 50 under.
I prefer Dura Bond cam bearings over Clevite, Federal Mogul or Clevite on rods and main bearings. Make sure the Top rings of your chosen ring set are Ductile Iron rings rather than Cast Iron, usually plasma moly rings are on ductile iron so you should be OK.
Keep us posted and send pictures soon. Welcome abord.
I prefer Dura Bond cam bearings over Clevite, Federal Mogul or Clevite on rods and main bearings. Make sure the Top rings of your chosen ring set are Ductile Iron rings rather than Cast Iron, usually plasma moly rings are on ductile iron so you should be OK.
Keep us posted and send pictures soon. Welcome abord.
06-21-2011, 11:32 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
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Do you have the 2.5 ram horns and off road exhaust with crossover? If not you might want to consider the off road exhaust. It sounds great.
I had gone with 512 CE block, same heads 461x cut for 2.02 1.60. I installed the L-79 cam nestolgia plus cam from comp cams with hydraulic lifters. The engine was 30 over 10/10 on the crank. A performer intake and holley 600 CFM carb. I went with flat top pistons maybe I should have gone with dome pistons. I know the engine does not ping. Though, I am not sure how many horses it is.
300+ horsepower is plenty for these cars.
It looks like you have a good plan. Good luck on the build. Very enjoyable and frustating at the same time to restore these cars.
I had gone with 512 CE block, same heads 461x cut for 2.02 1.60. I installed the L-79 cam nestolgia plus cam from comp cams with hydraulic lifters. The engine was 30 over 10/10 on the crank. A performer intake and holley 600 CFM carb. I went with flat top pistons maybe I should have gone with dome pistons. I know the engine does not ping. Though, I am not sure how many horses it is.
300+ horsepower is plenty for these cars.
It looks like you have a good plan. Good luck on the build. Very enjoyable and frustating at the same time to restore these cars.
06-22-2011, 06:39 AM
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Thank you all for the warm welcome, and for the advice. I will be looking into all of the things that have been mentioned in order to improve my plan. I have so much to learn. Some questions:
1) Westlotorn - What do you like about the Dura Bond bearings that the others don't offer? Also, what is the part number for the OEM crank I need? My research shows that I should be good to go with the rings. Thank you for the tip!
2) James - I need to look more closely at the manifolds and exhaust. More to follow. Can I change it over properly if mine is the standard system?
3) GCD1962 - Is it practical to do a four-bolt main conversion? I really would like to use this block since it is so close to the original.
The Niagara Swap Meet is this weekend, and I live in Akron, New York, which is less than 1/2 hour away. I intend to be there looking for various items. Hope the weather holds!!!
Incidentally, for those who know about the Niagara show, you will note that it is run by Niagara CHT Productions. Well, my last name is Hyder, and "CHT" stands for Cory, Hyder, Thomas. My Dad and two of his friends started the Niagara show, and I spent many, many hours there working at it in the early years. My Dad parted ways with the group after several years, but I am very familiar with this event. Anyone on here going to attend?
1) Westlotorn - What do you like about the Dura Bond bearings that the others don't offer? Also, what is the part number for the OEM crank I need? My research shows that I should be good to go with the rings. Thank you for the tip!
2) James - I need to look more closely at the manifolds and exhaust. More to follow. Can I change it over properly if mine is the standard system?
3) GCD1962 - Is it practical to do a four-bolt main conversion? I really would like to use this block since it is so close to the original.
The Niagara Swap Meet is this weekend, and I live in Akron, New York, which is less than 1/2 hour away. I intend to be there looking for various items. Hope the weather holds!!!
Incidentally, for those who know about the Niagara show, you will note that it is run by Niagara CHT Productions. Well, my last name is Hyder, and "CHT" stands for Cory, Hyder, Thomas. My Dad and two of his friends started the Niagara show, and I spent many, many hours there working at it in the early years. My Dad parted ways with the group after several years, but I am very familiar with this event. Anyone on here going to attend?
06-22-2011, 06:53 AM
#8
Racer
Welcome to the forum. I have a '61 that didn't have the original motor in it. I put a GM crate engine in it. I did that about 12 years ago.
If I had it to do all over again (and I still might) I would try these guys. http://enginefactory.com/
Has anyone else used these guys?
If I had it to do all over again (and I still might) I would try these guys. http://enginefactory.com/
Has anyone else used these guys?
06-22-2011, 07:19 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
1. I'd use that block, and wouldn't bother with a 4 bolt main conversion. Just don't regularly shift at 7000 rpms. If you use that block, you'll be able to use the original attractive finned aluminum valve covers. You need a breather tube for crankcase ventilation. That block has a provision for a breather tube in the back. Those covers don't. So, if the block doesn't have one, you need to get later covers that do. If you want to use the original covers, you need a block with a breather hole.
2. Are you sure the 3269S main body should have a 1466 casting? I thought they were supposed to have a 1481. But I'm not sure. It's the air horn (top part) of the carb that is the 3269S distinguishing feature from the other AFBs. The 3269S air horn has the smaller air cleaner posts. Little posts. The others have longer ones.
3. Not sure about the gaskets. But I do know you want modern ones that seal better. And you want black ones. Not orange or blue ones that stand out. A stock 340 HP engine is beautiful - big polished aluminum air cleaner, aluminum intake, finned aluminum valve covers, shiney chrome ignition shielding. Consider doing something with the exhaust manifolds to keep them from rusting.
4. You have an early engine. Later in the '62 model year run, Chevy drilled the crankshaft for a bolt to better secure the balancer. On early engines, it's a press fit only. Later ones have the press fit and the bolt. You want the bolt. An aftermarket crank is probably already drilled and tapped for that bolt hole.
5. Chevy offered a PCV system as an option for 1962. I'd build to that, rather than the road breather tube. The PCV system parts are readily available from the usual Corvette parts suppliers. Cheaper than the road draft breather tube too. The PCV system will keep your car's engine compartment and underside cleaner, to say nothing about improving air quality.
6. Block off the exhaust crossover passage in the intake manifold in order to help lower the temperature of the carb. If you do that, make sure you have a failsafe way to keep the exhaust heat riser open. Some people wire them open from the outside. Some people substitute the fuel injection spacer for the riser. I used the riser, but took a Dremel tool to gut the inside. Looks stock from the outside and no wires showing. But I know it can't fail shut.
7. You could have the heads ported and polished. I'm not an expert at this, but I believe there are two kinds - street and high rpm/full race.
8. After you build the engine, you might consider having it broken in on a dyno before you install it. Costs about $600. If it breaks or leaks during break-in, it'll be easier to fix while it's still out of the car.
2. Are you sure the 3269S main body should have a 1466 casting? I thought they were supposed to have a 1481. But I'm not sure. It's the air horn (top part) of the carb that is the 3269S distinguishing feature from the other AFBs. The 3269S air horn has the smaller air cleaner posts. Little posts. The others have longer ones.
3. Not sure about the gaskets. But I do know you want modern ones that seal better. And you want black ones. Not orange or blue ones that stand out. A stock 340 HP engine is beautiful - big polished aluminum air cleaner, aluminum intake, finned aluminum valve covers, shiney chrome ignition shielding. Consider doing something with the exhaust manifolds to keep them from rusting.
4. You have an early engine. Later in the '62 model year run, Chevy drilled the crankshaft for a bolt to better secure the balancer. On early engines, it's a press fit only. Later ones have the press fit and the bolt. You want the bolt. An aftermarket crank is probably already drilled and tapped for that bolt hole.
5. Chevy offered a PCV system as an option for 1962. I'd build to that, rather than the road breather tube. The PCV system parts are readily available from the usual Corvette parts suppliers. Cheaper than the road draft breather tube too. The PCV system will keep your car's engine compartment and underside cleaner, to say nothing about improving air quality.
6. Block off the exhaust crossover passage in the intake manifold in order to help lower the temperature of the carb. If you do that, make sure you have a failsafe way to keep the exhaust heat riser open. Some people wire them open from the outside. Some people substitute the fuel injection spacer for the riser. I used the riser, but took a Dremel tool to gut the inside. Looks stock from the outside and no wires showing. But I know it can't fail shut.
7. You could have the heads ported and polished. I'm not an expert at this, but I believe there are two kinds - street and high rpm/full race.
8. After you build the engine, you might consider having it broken in on a dyno before you install it. Costs about $600. If it breaks or leaks during break-in, it'll be easier to fix while it's still out of the car.
06-22-2011, 11:16 AM
#11
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I agree with Chris. A 4 bolt main block or conversion is highly over rated for a street engine. Insurance yes, but not needed.......
If you do go with a 4 bolt conversion, then the block must have the mains aligned bored, which means using an undersized timing chain (to compensate for the shift in bore axis).
Plasticman
If you do go with a 4 bolt conversion, then the block must have the mains aligned bored, which means using an undersized timing chain (to compensate for the shift in bore axis).
Plasticman
06-22-2011, 11:47 AM
#12
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4-bolt main conversion on a serious 327? Forget it, don't waste your money!
But, I would install studs for the main caps instead of bolts. If the block is a solid, rebuildable core, it will probably last forever. Keep in mind that before such a thing as 4-bolt blocks were introduced, these engines took a tremendous amount of punishment and just keep on going.
Also, if you switch to main studs, get the kind that are made for attaching a windage tray. ARP has them.
Tom Parsons
But, I would install studs for the main caps instead of bolts. If the block is a solid, rebuildable core, it will probably last forever. Keep in mind that before such a thing as 4-bolt blocks were introduced, these engines took a tremendous amount of punishment and just keep on going.
Also, if you switch to main studs, get the kind that are made for attaching a windage tray. ARP has them.
Tom Parsons
06-22-2011, 12:12 PM
#13
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Thank you all for the warm welcome, and for the advice. I will be looking into all of the things that have been mentioned in order to improve my plan. I have so much to learn. Some questions:
1) Westlotorn - What do you like about the Dura Bond bearings that the others don't offer? Also, what is the part number for the OEM crank I need? My research shows that I should be good to go with the rings. Thank you for the tip!
2) James - I need to look more closely at the manifolds and exhaust. More to follow. Can I change it over properly if mine is the standard system?
3) GCD1962 - Is it practical to do a four-bolt main conversion? I really would like to use this block since it is so close to the original.
The Niagara Swap Meet is this weekend, and I live in Akron, New York, which is less than 1/2 hour away. I intend to be there looking for various items. Hope the weather holds!!!
Incidentally, for those who know about the Niagara show, you will note that it is run by Niagara CHT Productions. Well, my last name is Hyder, and "CHT" stands for Cory, Hyder, Thomas. My Dad and two of his friends started the Niagara show, and I spent many, many hours there working at it in the early years. My Dad parted ways with the group after several years, but I am very familiar with this event. Anyone on here going to attend?
1) Westlotorn - What do you like about the Dura Bond bearings that the others don't offer? Also, what is the part number for the OEM crank I need? My research shows that I should be good to go with the rings. Thank you for the tip!
2) James - I need to look more closely at the manifolds and exhaust. More to follow. Can I change it over properly if mine is the standard system?
3) GCD1962 - Is it practical to do a four-bolt main conversion? I really would like to use this block since it is so close to the original.
The Niagara Swap Meet is this weekend, and I live in Akron, New York, which is less than 1/2 hour away. I intend to be there looking for various items. Hope the weather holds!!!
Incidentally, for those who know about the Niagara show, you will note that it is run by Niagara CHT Productions. Well, my last name is Hyder, and "CHT" stands for Cory, Hyder, Thomas. My Dad and two of his friends started the Niagara show, and I spent many, many hours there working at it in the early years. My Dad parted ways with the group after several years, but I am very familiar with this event. Anyone on here going to attend?
Last edited by jimh_1962; 06-22-2011 at 12:24 PM.
06-22-2011, 10:12 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
1) Westlotorn - What do you like about the Dura Bond bearings that the others don't offer? Also, what is the part number for the OEM crank I need? My research shows that I should be good to go with the rings. Thank you for the tip!
These older engines were manufactured with less than perfect cam bore alignment and the old design cam bearings were very good at allowing for this imperfection.
Dura Bond still, offers to the best of my knowedge the full circle, no weld or clinch cam bearings made of a high lead material. This material will actually flow a little moving the clearance where it needs to be and allowing these less than perfect cam bores to work perfectly in these engines. Newer materials, while much better for endurance and big camshafts don't allow as much wiggle room. Clevite and Federal-Mogul purchased cam bearings from Dura bond in the past, they are a good manufacturer not a small player.
They offer heavy duty versions also if you happen to have a very true to spec block.
OEM has pretty much moved to Aluminum Cam bearing material for two reasons, Lead is not EPA friendly and Aluminum holds up better with the steeper ramps seen on roller camshafts, plus these newer engines have life expectancies of 300,000 miles not the 80 to 100,000 expected in 1966. Plus new tooling allows for perfect cam bores from the factory today.
These older engines were manufactured with less than perfect cam bore alignment and the old design cam bearings were very good at allowing for this imperfection.
Dura Bond still, offers to the best of my knowedge the full circle, no weld or clinch cam bearings made of a high lead material. This material will actually flow a little moving the clearance where it needs to be and allowing these less than perfect cam bores to work perfectly in these engines. Newer materials, while much better for endurance and big camshafts don't allow as much wiggle room. Clevite and Federal-Mogul purchased cam bearings from Dura bond in the past, they are a good manufacturer not a small player.
They offer heavy duty versions also if you happen to have a very true to spec block.
OEM has pretty much moved to Aluminum Cam bearing material for two reasons, Lead is not EPA friendly and Aluminum holds up better with the steeper ramps seen on roller camshafts, plus these newer engines have life expectancies of 300,000 miles not the 80 to 100,000 expected in 1966. Plus new tooling allows for perfect cam bores from the factory today.
06-22-2011, 10:33 PM
#15
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4-bolt main conversion on a serious 327? Forget it, don't waste your money!
But, I would install studs for the main caps instead of bolts. If the block is a solid, rebuildable core, it will probably last forever. Keep in mind that before such a thing as 4-bolt blocks were introduced, these engines took a tremendous amount of punishment and just keep on going.
Also, if you switch to main studs, get the kind that are made for attaching a windage tray. ARP has them.
Tom Parsons
But, I would install studs for the main caps instead of bolts. If the block is a solid, rebuildable core, it will probably last forever. Keep in mind that before such a thing as 4-bolt blocks were introduced, these engines took a tremendous amount of punishment and just keep on going.
Also, if you switch to main studs, get the kind that are made for attaching a windage tray. ARP has them.
Tom Parsons
Welcome to CF, any pics of your car? My 62 is fawn beige. Pics on my page.
06-22-2011, 11:01 PM
#16
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First...welcome to the Forum! You'll have a lot of fun around here!
Now I'm known for liking a little extra HP...and can't stand leaving opportunity just sitting there. If you're buying a crank and pistons....a 383 can be made easily with a good aftermarket crank even cut to the small bearing journals. Or swap blocks to a later large journal.
OK...I couldn't help myself....I know you'll be happy with a 327 from the way you describe it. I would use 6.0" rods so that I could use much lighter pistons (cost is the same or less) to take some load off the bottom end. I would use the aftermarket steel crank which as good as the original steel ones are..the new ones are nicer. SCAT makes nice stuff...just find someone to balance it all properly.
I would get a nice port job on the heads which would be invisible to the outside world and easily add 30+ HP. I would also go at the inside of the original intake and the exhaust manifolds. You could easily bust 400+ HP with stock parts and look dead stock. LOTS of fun when you roll up beside another stock '62!
Have fun!
JIM
Now I'm known for liking a little extra HP...and can't stand leaving opportunity just sitting there. If you're buying a crank and pistons....a 383 can be made easily with a good aftermarket crank even cut to the small bearing journals. Or swap blocks to a later large journal.
OK...I couldn't help myself....I know you'll be happy with a 327 from the way you describe it. I would use 6.0" rods so that I could use much lighter pistons (cost is the same or less) to take some load off the bottom end. I would use the aftermarket steel crank which as good as the original steel ones are..the new ones are nicer. SCAT makes nice stuff...just find someone to balance it all properly.
I would get a nice port job on the heads which would be invisible to the outside world and easily add 30+ HP. I would also go at the inside of the original intake and the exhaust manifolds. You could easily bust 400+ HP with stock parts and look dead stock. LOTS of fun when you roll up beside another stock '62!
Have fun!
JIM
06-23-2011, 09:28 AM
#17
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Wow, loads of great information. I was hoping for that! I build custom bass guitars as one of my other interests, and the web forum that I am on for that has been a gold mine. Same here! I will try to reply to the different suggestions here:
-I will be going with the early block with the ARP studs. Excellent suggestion.
-The research I have done on the 0-1466 carb main body casting number for the first production run of '62's made in August of '61 points to my carb being correct. Can anyone confirm?
-I'll go with the Scat crank. It would just make me feel better knowing that all the internal parts were new, and I found one at a great price, probably around what I would pay for an OEM.
-I do have a set of the original, non-ported finned aluminum valve covers, which I am going to use. I will need to research the PVC system.
-Definitely going to do porting and polishing on the heads and manifolds.
-Sounds like the Dura Bond cam bearings are the way to go!
-Black gaskets it is. Any recommended performance sets?
-I will go ahead with the blocking of the exhaust port in the intake. Is there a sticky on this, or can someone provide pics/tutorial?
-I was planning on the dyno to see how well I did on the build with regard to horsepower, but I never thought about it for the break-in period. Outstanding suggestion!
-6.0" rods and lighter pistons. Intriguing thought. Any particular component suggestions?
-Also, what are your thoughts about these items: lifter valley pan, phenolic carburetor spacer, aftermarket distributor with breakerless ignition, high-output coil, aftermarket radiator?
Thank you all
Seabees Can Do! Navy Chief, Navy Pride!
-I will be going with the early block with the ARP studs. Excellent suggestion.
-The research I have done on the 0-1466 carb main body casting number for the first production run of '62's made in August of '61 points to my carb being correct. Can anyone confirm?
-I'll go with the Scat crank. It would just make me feel better knowing that all the internal parts were new, and I found one at a great price, probably around what I would pay for an OEM.
-I do have a set of the original, non-ported finned aluminum valve covers, which I am going to use. I will need to research the PVC system.
-Definitely going to do porting and polishing on the heads and manifolds.
-Sounds like the Dura Bond cam bearings are the way to go!
-Black gaskets it is. Any recommended performance sets?
-I will go ahead with the blocking of the exhaust port in the intake. Is there a sticky on this, or can someone provide pics/tutorial?
-I was planning on the dyno to see how well I did on the build with regard to horsepower, but I never thought about it for the break-in period. Outstanding suggestion!
-6.0" rods and lighter pistons. Intriguing thought. Any particular component suggestions?
-Also, what are your thoughts about these items: lifter valley pan, phenolic carburetor spacer, aftermarket distributor with breakerless ignition, high-output coil, aftermarket radiator?
Thank you all
Seabees Can Do! Navy Chief, Navy Pride!
06-23-2011, 11:06 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
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Also, keep in mind there is not much space underneath between the engine and the hood. An edelbrock performer intake and the stock intake will fit fine. Fel pro sells a performance intake gasket with the exhaust closed up.
You probably can go with the stock style coil and stock distributor with petronix since it will fit underneath the shielding. Plus you want to run tach drive on the distributor for 1962.
Buy Dewitts radiator!
Also, get the st-12 manual and noland adams corvette restoration volume 1 book. If you are going for judging then sign up for NCRS and buy the judging manual. Not sure the route you are going...
You probably can go with the stock style coil and stock distributor with petronix since it will fit underneath the shielding. Plus you want to run tach drive on the distributor for 1962.
Buy Dewitts radiator!
Also, get the st-12 manual and noland adams corvette restoration volume 1 book. If you are going for judging then sign up for NCRS and buy the judging manual. Not sure the route you are going...
Last edited by jimh_1962; 06-23-2011 at 11:12 AM.
06-23-2011, 11:41 AM
#19
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-Cool. I will look for the correct gasket to go with the manifold alteration.
-Roger that on the distributor.
-The advice on the radiator is what I was hoping to hear. I can get an original, but that last thing I want is cooling system trouble down the road.
-I do have the factory assembly manual and the restoration book, among several other books on the subject. Now I have to read and learn
-Roger that on the distributor.
-The advice on the radiator is what I was hoping to hear. I can get an original, but that last thing I want is cooling system trouble down the road.
-I do have the factory assembly manual and the restoration book, among several other books on the subject. Now I have to read and learn
06-23-2011, 11:54 AM
#20
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Anything is possible:
I went from this in 2001:
to this 2011:
I guess it depends upon what you want to do... complete restoration numbers matching, nice driver, surviror, hot rod or restomod. My suggestion is first figure out what you need for the suspension, body, electrical and interior. You can always get the engine parts later. It is the rest of the parts which are hard to find and can get expensive plus time consuming.
I went from this in 2001:
to this 2011:
I guess it depends upon what you want to do... complete restoration numbers matching, nice driver, surviror, hot rod or restomod. My suggestion is first figure out what you need for the suspension, body, electrical and interior. You can always get the engine parts later. It is the rest of the parts which are hard to find and can get expensive plus time consuming.