scorpion1110

Hi Guys-

This is not an opinion question. I have read pros and cons on the Pertonix set-up. However I want to give it a shot in my C1 and evaluate myself. I can always swap the distributor to a points unit if I don't like the Ignitor.

My question centers on installation.

I have a '60 C1 with a later model 350 that currently has a GM HEI installed. The installation omitted the stock resistor. Here is a pic of the current configuration:



The 18 gauge brown lead would normally run from one end of the resistor to the ignition. It also appears from the wiring schematic that the wiper hot feed runs to this terminal. This lead is spliced and runs to the HEI battery terminal currently.

The green lead which would run to the other side of the resistor which would be the Coil + and starter solenoid "S" tab, is connected at the starter and hanging free due to no resistor.

I expect since the HEI needs a full 12v it is simply taking hot off the brown wire, with no resistor necessary.

However, I am trying to get the wipers up and in looking at the Pertronix instructions; it says

"For installations that use a primary ballast resistor, it is preferable to connect the red wire to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor rather than the (+) positive terminal of the coil". So...

I think the hook-up should be:

Insert resistor with Brown 18ga lead on one side and Green 18ga lead on the other.

At the brown lead side will also be wiper hot and the red from the Pertronix.

On the other terminal of the resistor will be the green lead that also runs to the starter solenoid S.

The remaining black wire from the Pertronix would run to the Coil minus.

I then ground the wiper motor (where? motor?) and everything should work without burining down my C1.

Do I have this or am I totally off base?

Thanks, Guys!

Frankie the Fink

First off put a 30 amp ATC blade type fuse behind your ammeter in-line with the wire coming from the "+" battery terminal - no burning down of your C1. The installation for the Pertronix III as shown on my '61 BYPASSES the
ballast resistor...the resistor is still installed for a stock look however.

I only wanted one wire coming from under the ignition shielding to the DS (Driver's Side) of the ballast resistor so my Pertronix red ("+") wire is attached directly to the "+" terminal on the ignition coil. Other wires are as shown...note the protective shrink wrap on the bright green wire from the coil to the DS side of the ballast where it runs under the sharp bottom edge of the shielding. The green wire at the PS (Passenger's side) of the ballast no longer functions since the coil wire was moved to the DS side of the ballast (I left it there to maintain a stock appearance as possible).

BTW - that 'hanging' green wire on your setup should be going to the starter "C" terminal and not the "S"...

scorpion1110

Frankie-

I will take care of the inline 30-amp- thanks for that recommendation.

Regarding the Resistor- If I understand your pics- essentially it is working as a junction block, with the ignition (or hot) feeding to one side, and the wiper and pertronix picking up from that side. The other side that would have the green terminal remains disconnected.

That was kinda what I was thinking only I was leaving the green hooked up.

Essentially grabbing 12 volts off the coil + or the DS side terminal of the resistor is giving me exactly the same thing.

BTW, where did you run your wiper ground to? I need to run one when I wring up the wipers.

thanks for the help!

Frankie the Fink

Your analysis of my resistor at this point is correct. It's for decoration now...EVERYthing works off the 12V coming from the ignition switch (DS) side of the ballast. The PS side of the ballast is just a "dead end" to hang the green wire from the starter now.

The wiper ground on my car is actually coming off a black wire connected to the rear PS top rear valve cover bolt...HOWEVER, some cars have the wiper ground connected at the opposite end of the motor mounting bracket via a wire connected to the DS top rear valve cover bolt....either way works.

Almost every Pertronix installation that I have troubleshot for other owner's was due to incorrect/damagd wiring which has given the units an undeserved reputation for failures.

Mike Ward

Scorpion-

Are you removing the entire HEI distributor and replacing it with a Pertronix 'flame thrower' distributor or literally as you stated the 'Ignitor'

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

product. You later mention connecting to the 'coil minus' post.

scorpion1110

Hi Mike:

Its an ignitor AC-181 for an Accel 34000 series. According to the instructions it says Black lead to coil minus, red lead to coil +, unless there is a primary ballast resitor. In that case it recommends going to the ignition side of the resistor.

I have no business typing and posting threads before coffee

Mike Ward

So you're changing the entire distributor and adding a coil, ie- going 'backwards' in technology? May I ask why?

scorpion1110

Sure-

The GM HEI is large and cumbersome. The current version of my 60 is more a period correct hotrod which is how I will leave it while I collect the parts to build it my way. At some point in the future it may be either a restored car or fresh paint car with some tasteful upgrades.

It will likely be black with silver coves, red interior and redline radials with vintage torqthrusts.

So I am adding period correct vintage Hot rod parts; An Accel supercoil, the accel distributor, yellow plug wires, tan distributor cap, satin finish R&M looms and the sixpack intake below (edelbrock with six large logo stromberg 97s:



I am running the car with ARE Torqthrusts.

It's a patina'd car with a hotrod look so I thought I would dress the engine period correct for the time being.

Having a bit of fun while I build my project plan for the car.

S

Roger Quintero

Hey Frank,
I noticed a hose/plastic coated wire to the left of the ballast resistor along with what I think is the VR wire coming out of the firewall. What is that?
Thanks
Rog

toms silver 60

Super cool on the sixpack- What are plans for air cleaners and hood clearance?

Frankie the Fink

If you are talking about the thick red/black wires coming thru the small grommet above the ballast resistor (they may look as thick as a small hose) those go directly from the battery to an "accessory", aftermarket blade-type fuse block at the driver's kick panel which powers my 600W Kenwood stereo amp and power windows (and perhaps A/C someday).

Roger Quintero

Frank thanks for the info. I thought maybe I ran something wrong or something was missing. Those wires looked like they were part of your original wiring harness. Good job.
I recieved my parking lights today (trim parts) and the passenger side did not fit flesh. It is always something. This wiring job leads into so many different variables it is unbelievable. Once you are under the dash taking wires out there seem to be one thing after another that requires fixing. If I was real smart I would take out the windsheild now to replace the weather stripping. But, I miss driving the car and hate to have it down any longer than needed.

Rog

Frankie the Fink

Replacing the windshield weatherstrip is a tedious job that goes South on you real quick without incredible patience. I was lucky (or unlucky if you will) in that my windshield got busted by a rock a few months after I got the car so I had a pro replace EVERYthing since insurance paid for it!

If you want to do that some day it might be worth it to just take the windshield frame off and drive it down here to get it done by some pros that I know. Prob good to replace the dash pad at the same time if it needs it.

My Trim Part tail light housings are only 18 months old in a car that is constantly garaged and already show minor pitting - NOT happy about it...don't know if their quality had gone down or that's just life with even the best repro vendors now.

When you finish the wiring....make sure ALL the fuses are removed when you apply power then install them one-by-one as you cut off power and reapply it and watch for smoke (I'm not kidding), check the ammeter gauge for unusual current draw as you do so. Finally, if you have original wipers, turn them on and make d@mn sure those cables underneath the dash aren't sawing through your new wiring job!

Roger Quintero

Frank, I attached a picture of the mess I started with and it looks a 100% better in the picture!

I know what you mean about the windshield. The more I look into it the more I dont want to do it.
As for the fuse box. I did not even think about placing the fuses in one at a time. That is a good idea and I will definately do that.
The windshield wiper cables are a problem. That is one reason why the wiring is such a pain. I am trying to make absolutly sure the wiring is no where near the cables. Allot of the wiring is tentative done, and I am waiting for a gromment kit. I was looking at grommets at the hardward stores but they are hit and miss; so I ordered a grommet kit. To tell you the truth I do not know how I would have got through this wiring issue without the forum. By the way I recieved the doc's colored wiring diagram and it was the bomb! Big help. The color wiring diagram makes all the difference in the world.

Roger Quintero

I am on it.
Here are a couple pictures of my mess. Notice the fuse box. It had an entire corner broke off and it was taped holding it together. The housing was actually broke in the middle of a fuse, and I mean broken straight through the fuse panel.
Here is the way my wiring has been going: I was unbolting the hour ground wire that is on the nut that attaches the horn to the body. Guess what? Naturally the nut brakes and I had the take the entire headlight assembly off to get to the back side of the nut. I am not even going to mention the passenger side courtesy light issue.
What a day.

Roger Quintero

Did I mention I am will to sell all this orginal wiring at a real good price!!!!!!!!!

Frankie the Fink

That could turn into a "fire sale" - LITERALLY !

You have saved yourself a world of grief with that wiring swap out. The old stuff looks to be ancient, extensively Bubba'ed, connectors are painted over and probably corroded, etc.. The fuse box damage alone is enough to keep one up nights.

I had toyed with the idea of seeing if there were LED replacements for the dash bulbs when I was rewiring but never got around to it...

FTF

Roger Quintero

There are LED replacments out there, but they want stupid money for them and you have to have some type of in line voltage reducer. My brother in law got them for his chevelle and they were 20 bucks a pop and he still has not got them to work.